Securing Nissan brick for airport or other public charging

My Nissan Leaf Forum

Help Support My Nissan Leaf Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

smkettner

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 10, 2010
Messages
7,501
Location
Orange County, CA
OK I have not seen this yet so here is my method:

Lay the brick behind the battery

2012-01-13042.jpg


Lay the coiled cord toward the front

2012-01-13045.jpg


Insert J connector and lay the cord snug in the front corner along the weatherstrip

2012-01-13043.jpg


Draw the extension cord same along the other side and close the hood

2012-01-13047.jpg


Side view ready to plug in

2012-01-13048.jpg


The extension cord shown I believe was #16 wire. After close to an hour the wire was fine but the connectors became very hot. It is an old cord and probably worn connectors. My #12 wire extension cord fit the slot just fine so I have to recommend the heavier cord. I have used this HD cord for 6 hours continuous with no heat issues.
 
great idea which makes me think that a PERMANENT storage solution might be possible under the hood. the heat generated is negligible (during winter its NON EXISTENT!) and there is no spinning thises and thats to worry about. might be a bit easier to pull from the front than from the back. no uncoiling, no mess.

very nice!
 
It would seem that the "wise" Standards Committee did not really consider vandalism a sufficiently significant issue.

So, perhaps a "next mod"(?) for charging:

1. Remove the "expensive" J1772 cord and Plug from the Brick EVSE (or see #3 below), and hard-wire the "EVSE" to the INSIDE of the LEAF's J1772 socket, using a double-pole switch to connect a suitable Proximity circuit and the Control-Pilot circuit. Then, the standard J1772 socket can still be used by other EVSEs at public charging stations.

2. Put the exrension cord on a "Retractor" spool (sufficient room behind the grill?). Then, just pull out the amount of (easily-replacable) extension cord you need to reach the 120v or 240v socket, and "lock" the spool so that more cord cannot be pulled out and cut off.
OR
Perhaps just install a male "socket" in some convenient spot (near the switch in #1, perhaps in the charging-hatch area) to plug in the outboard end of your (usually short) extension cord.

3. Instead of using the expensive modified Nissan EVSE (around $1000), use the "Open EVSE". With everything needed for this job (no J1772 Plug or cord), probably only about $150 or so.

Just ideas.
I need to look at the spaces and the charging-hatch area.

Any ideas for a good 240v-20A rated 25-foot (12 gauge + ground) retractor spool?
 
There was an interesting discussion on retractable charge cords, etc., on PluginCars.com: http://www.plugincars.com/unconvenient-electric-cars-how-make-them-better-108206.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
 
I thought that the point of the EVSE in close proximity to the outlet was for safety. Now if the GFCI was in the plug of the extension cord...
 
This is no less safe than plugging in the "brick"
to the 120v "wall" socket.

To Connect:
Open hatch, pull out extension cord, plug into "shore" power, flip the "Internal/External EVSE" switch to "Internal", and close the hatch, "clamping" the extension cord.

To disconnect:
Open hatch, flip switch to "External EVSE", disconnect from shore power, retract cord, close hatch.

NOTE: If the switch is accidently left in the "Internal" position, the LEAF would sense being plugged in, and you will not be able to drive the car.
 
If using a reel or coiled cord, I'd be concerned with it getting too hot, especially on hot days (sun heating the hood). Although, I suppose, 120 Volt charging doesn't draw all that much current.
 
Great ideas! Note that weatherproof cable reels are big and expensive:

http://www.stayonline.com/detail.aspx?ID=8842" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
 
I was trying for a solution where one would not need to open the hood, but rather just pull an extension cord out through a hole inside the Charge-Port hatch.

I will have to look closer at the spaces available and the clearances involved.
 
Is anyone using the "engine" compartment for storage of the evse as discussed here? I'd love to get it out of the way of my son's tenor sax which he loads into the car every day rather less carefully than I might wish.
 
It very perplexing why the charge cored was just not built into an EV car. This J1772 connector and cable should be part of the car. Not on the EVSE pedestal where any Joe blow can steal it.
 
copdoc said:
Is anyone using the "engine" compartment for storage of the evse as discussed here? I'd love to get it out of the way of my son's tenor sax which he loads into the car every day rather less carefully than I might wish.
Mine is totally out of sight and protected, along with extension cord, adapters, tools, rags, etc. I love my organizer! It keeps the back of the car so nice looking.

Ray
 
GPowers said:
It very perplexing why the charge cored was just not built into an EV car. This J1772 connector and cable should be part of the car. Not on the EVSE pedestal where any Joe blow can steal it.
That's the way Europe is going with the Mennekes connector. A LEAF owner would carry around a Mennekes to J1772 adapter cable, a Tesla owner would carry a Mennekes to Tesla connector cable, etc... There's much to be said for the concept, although if it does get stolen, the individual owner is left without any way to charge until he gets his expensive cable replaced. I also find with the current portable EVSE that pulling the cable out and putting it away each time is a nuisance, I'm sure the M-to-J1772 cable won't be any better.
 
Hi,

writing in foreign language, so I hope to use the right technical terms now and in the future.

Why not just use a padlock (through the hole in the silver switch on top of the type 1 plug) to keep the type 1 plug (and thus the "brick") with the car? I guess tht's what they put it in for.

Or do people in the US actually cut off the "brick" (what's the correct term - we in Germany use in-cable-control-box)?

Brick theft is not much of a problem yet in Germany - but people begin thinking about it. But then, our "bricks" dont cost a thousand dollars, "just" around 300-400 EUR (between 390 and 520 US-$).

BUT the type 2 Mennekes plugs are as expensive as the bricks in the US, although they are only cables and plugs...

Cheers

Frank
 
Franko30 said:
Hi,

writing in foreign language, so I hope to use the right technical terms now and in the future.

Why not just use a padlock (through the hole in the silver switch on top of the type 1 plug) to keep the type 1 plug (and thus the "brick") with the car? I guess tht's what they put it in for.

Or do people in the US actually cut off the "brick" (what's the correct term - we in Germany use in-cable-control-box)?

Brick theft is not much of a problem yet in Germany - but people begin thinking about it. But then, our "bricks" dont cost a thousand dollars, "just" around 300-400 EUR (between 390 and 520 US-$).

BUT the type 2 Mennekes plugs are as expensive as the bricks in the US, although they are only cables and plugs...

Cheers

Frank


thanks for the info Frank. sounds like another (of the many) examples of Europeans simply being more progressive towards EV tech... we are lagging here i am afraid by quite a bit
 
Seems like people here in the US will steal almost anything these days. We keep having instances of UPS/FedEx packages disappearing from porches within a few minutes of being delivered.
This idea is one we'll have to bring up with Nissan. I'll have to pull off the plastic protector, but I think the space next to the radiator overflow container is pretty empty. I bet something could be worked out. Might even be able to retrofit it. Will get Electric4Me or Ingineer on the case.
 
Back
Top