Let's not insult people needlessly. His car has 53 AHr left, which, like you say, is equivalent to a 10.5 bar (11 bar) Leaf, not 12. From your link, it shows that the lowest 12 bar leaf had 53.92 AH when it lost its first bar, which typically happens at 55AH. At 53, it's below that threshold.SageBrush wrote: ↑Wed Oct 30, 2019 6:47 pm.PerformanceMotors wrote: ↑Wed Oct 30, 2019 6:39 pm
http://www.casteyanqui.com/ev/barloss3/bar1loss.jpg
From your link.. you can see that there was a car that lost the 1st bar at 53ahr.
Your reading comprehension leaves a lot to be desired. I can see why you are a used car salesman.
The link shows that NO car made it to 53 Ahr with 12 bars, and the average of the dataset is ~ 55 Ahr.
The car you are trying to sell has the equivalent of ~ 10.5 bars in a 24 kWh LEAF
Since you asked, PerformanceMotors, my 12 bar Leaf has 85.54 SOH and 54.57 AHr. It's about to become an 11 bar car. I could attach a Leafspy, but my reputation is sufficient that I'm not making this up. Additionally, your 9 bar car may be lowering the regenerative braking. If this is happening, range may be further reduced.
PerformanceMotors still has a valid point. He has a car that's very likely (but not guaranteed) to give a person a replacement, brand new battery pack in a 2016 Leaf. Until that point, the car is perfectly useful for many people. That said, PerformanceMotors, your representation of the car has been very over the top, you've insulted a lot of the regulars on the forum, and they've provided you excellent feedback that your asking price is likely too high to garner much interest. None of us are potential buyers, so you don't have to convince us. All we've done is try to warn you that you're not likely to sell the car at the asking price.
I would also state that while it's highly likely that car will get a warranty replaced pack, it's not guaranteed. My Leaf's have typically lost around 2% SOH per year (far below average), likely due to how I treat the car. Others in similar situations might also not qualify.
We've provided you feedback on how you could get the most money for the car. Leftie's feedback about having a warranty replaced battery being better than the current situation is spot on. Buyers don't want a hassle, they want something that works. And while it's not that big of a hassle, it's the same reason you paint and fix up a house before you sell it.
You've categorically rejected all feedback that's come your way and rationalized your way out of it. I truly hope you sell the car for the price you want, and that the buyer is happy. But we've been clear and honest with you about the reality. Whether you listen or not is your decision.
I agree that if you want top dollar for that car, your best option is to continue to drive it until it needs a new battery, get the battery replaced, and immediately sell it with a brand new battery. Even in that situation, I still don't think you can get anywhere close to $15,500 for it. Here's a comparable, 12 bar 2016 SV for $13k from a dealer: https://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/deta ... /overview/
