User avatar
garygid
Gold Member
Posts: 12469
Joined: Wed Apr 21, 2010 8:10 am
Delivery Date: 29 Mar 2011
Leaf Number: 000855
Location: Laguna Hills, Orange Co, CA

Re: The CANary project

Tue Feb 19, 2013 9:30 am

Very, very nice enclosure, better than I expected.

Your enclosure even includes the special mat-surface finish
to minimize reflections, excellent.

Did you have a choice of colors, like black or dark blue?

How is the display board held onto the molded pins?

Could you have molded them with a slot and a slight bulge
so that the board would just snap onto the pins, held in place?

If you had ordered several enclosures, or re-order the same
part, would you get a better price?

Again, very nicely done!!!
See SOC/GID-Meter and CAN-Do Info
2010 Prius
2011 LEAF, 2014 Tesla S85
2018 & 2019 Tesla Model 3
PU: SDG&E
Solar PV: 33 x 225W -> 7 kW max AC
Craigslist: Xm5000Li Electric Motorcycle

GregH
Posts: 860
Joined: Fri Jul 01, 2011 4:16 pm
Delivery Date: 13 Jun 2011
Leaf Number: 26967
Location: Irvine, CA

Re: The CANary project

Tue Feb 19, 2013 9:34 am

+1
Very slick!
'17 blue Volt Premier w/ACC
'12 SL black Leaf
'11 SL blue Leaf
RAV4-EV 2002-2005
Gen1 & Gen2 EV1 1997-2003
PV 2.4Kw, 10kWh lithium battery SCE TOU-DA

User avatar
garygid
Gold Member
Posts: 12469
Joined: Wed Apr 21, 2010 8:10 am
Delivery Date: 29 Mar 2011
Leaf Number: 000855
Location: Laguna Hills, Orange Co, CA

Re: The CANary project

Tue Feb 19, 2013 10:08 am

It appears that you used this material for your enclosure:

http://www.shapeways.com/materials/strong-flexible" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

For some reason, the white is the least expensive color.

Did you receive your PC board yet?

I intend to put a CANary together to better follow your work,
and have a working model to demonstrate to others.

Cheers, Gary
See SOC/GID-Meter and CAN-Do Info
2010 Prius
2011 LEAF, 2014 Tesla S85
2018 & 2019 Tesla Model 3
PU: SDG&E
Solar PV: 33 x 225W -> 7 kW max AC
Craigslist: Xm5000Li Electric Motorcycle

vegastar
Posts: 208
Joined: Mon Dec 13, 2010 11:29 am
Delivery Date: 07 Jul 2011
Leaf Number: 5564
Location: Portugal

Re: The CANary project

Tue Feb 19, 2013 10:13 am

I'm very interested in this. Will the source code be available?
2011 Nissan LEAF since 2011-07-07, 151000 km on 2018-03-03, 7 bars, 37.9Ah.

User avatar
TickTock
Posts: 1701
Joined: Sat Jun 04, 2011 10:30 pm
Delivery Date: 31 May 2011
Leaf Number: 3626
Location: Queen Creek, Arizona
Contact: Website

Re: The CANary project

Tue Feb 19, 2013 11:36 am

vegastar wrote:I'm very interested in this. Will the source code be available?
Yes. Once it is a little more mature, I will share a link to the source code, schematics, parts list, board, and enclosure for anyone who wishes to build or expand upon this.

A few have asked in PM if I would sell completed units and unfortunately I cannot - just too much time involved - but am happy to share my files.

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TickTock
Posts: 1701
Joined: Sat Jun 04, 2011 10:30 pm
Delivery Date: 31 May 2011
Leaf Number: 3626
Location: Queen Creek, Arizona
Contact: Website

Re: The CANary project

Tue Feb 19, 2013 11:41 am

Yup. It's referred to as WSF (White Strong Flexible) in the forum and is the most popular due to its low cost but excellent properties. It is laser-sintered nylon and after sanding the back, it has a smooth, almost wet, feel - kindof like Teflon. If the rough finish was more uniform, I would have kept it as feature, but as it is it has layered appearance from the manufacturing that I don't want to keep so I'll be sanding it down.

I sent the PC board just before Chinese New Year and paid for the cheapest shipping method so it may be a while before the PC board arrives.
garygid wrote:It appears that you used this material for your enclosure:

http://www.shapeways.com/materials/strong-flexible" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

For some reason, the white is the least expensive color.

Did you receive your PC board yet?

I intend to put a CANary together to better follow your work,
and have a working model to demonstrate to others.

Cheers, Gary

User avatar
TickTock
Posts: 1701
Joined: Sat Jun 04, 2011 10:30 pm
Delivery Date: 31 May 2011
Leaf Number: 3626
Location: Queen Creek, Arizona
Contact: Website

Re: The CANary project

Tue Feb 19, 2013 11:48 am

I really didn't expect my alignment pins to come out and figured I would have to cut/file them off but went ahead and put them in (just a mouse click or two). However, they work nicely and the rough finish adds the right amount of friction. I think a self-tapping nut would work to permanently attach it. Now I wish I added the pins for the PC board mount. The snap in idea is a good one, too. If I go for Rev2 I will consider changing to that.

Good question about the multiple order combining. I got the impression that I was paying per cm3 of deposited material. However there may be a fixed cost on top of that that could be saved. I'll look into it next time.
garygid wrote:Very, very nice enclosure, better than I expected.

Your enclosure even includes the special mat-surface finish
to minimize reflections, excellent.

Did you have a choice of colors, like black or dark blue?

How is the display board held onto the molded pins?

Could you have molded them with a slot and a slight bulge
so that the board would just snap onto the pins, held in place?

If you had ordered several enclosures, or re-order the same
part, would you get a better price?

Again, very nicely done!!!

User avatar
garygid
Gold Member
Posts: 12469
Joined: Wed Apr 21, 2010 8:10 am
Delivery Date: 29 Mar 2011
Leaf Number: 000855
Location: Laguna Hills, Orange Co, CA

Re: The CANary project

Wed Feb 20, 2013 10:28 am

How do you plan to use the 6 supports that you included
on the back wall, presumably for the PC board?

In the v2 enclosure, you might want to consider adding:

1. A cutout to mount the USB full size port, and two screw holes.
2. A cutout to insert a mini-USB plug into the Mbed board.
3. A 9/32" hole, or "knockout", on the side for a cable from the OBD port.
4. A 0.25 inch hole, or knockout, for one switch on the side,
positioned so that there is room for the switch body
and possibly solder contacts on the inside.
5. Some small (1/16" perhaps) heat ventilation holes on each side,
perhaps 2 or 3 near the top edge, and the same near the bottom edge.
6. If any edge is too flexible, add a bit of thickness near/at the edge.
7. Make the non-bottom edges slightly rounded instead of "sharp" edges.

A "knockout" would really be a hole/slot that is easy to cut
out with a sharp "hobby" knife, but still a flat outer surface
for cosmetics. So, a less-thick area surrounded on the inside
surface with a "groove" (wall perpendicular to the surface on
the outside of the groove, but something like a 45 degree wall
on the "inside" edge of the groove) that goes almost all the
way through to the outside surface. Holding it up to the light,
one should be able to see the "cutout" location easily.

Super work.
Is it easy to mount the two displays, connect them to
the breadboard, and take a "real" picture?

Thanks for your continued efforts, Gary
See SOC/GID-Meter and CAN-Do Info
2010 Prius
2011 LEAF, 2014 Tesla S85
2018 & 2019 Tesla Model 3
PU: SDG&E
Solar PV: 33 x 225W -> 7 kW max AC
Craigslist: Xm5000Li Electric Motorcycle

User avatar
garygid
Gold Member
Posts: 12469
Joined: Wed Apr 21, 2010 8:10 am
Delivery Date: 29 Mar 2011
Leaf Number: 000855
Location: Laguna Hills, Orange Co, CA

Re: The CANary project

Wed Feb 20, 2013 11:16 am

I realize that you do not yet know enough about the CANary's
functions, features, or future possibilities, but...

If we manage to find a way to offer a CANary Kit,
or a Built and Tested CANary, who might be interested?

Some Features (my wording might not be perfectly correct):

1. The programming is done on-line, with no special software needed.
2. Updating the CANary firmware is done by downloading a file, and
a simple copy and paste to the Mbed's "flash drive" (that appears on
your computer when you attach the supplied mini-USB cable).
No special hardware needed.
3. "All" the EV-CAN and CAR-CAN messages can be logged into
CAN-Do compatible ".alc" files on your USB flash drive, or
onto an SDHC card (when in a suitable USB adapter).
These files have a yymmddnn (date and sequence number)
file name, which provides "Black-Box"type data recording,
holding data for days, weeks, or even months.
4. There is a Real Time Clock, and messages are usually
time stamped to about a milli-second, with Date-Time
data added. The RTC has a coin-battery backup.
5. The over-abundance of color graphical displays (2) makes
experimenting with data much easier. 240 x 320 pixels.
For example, a real-time graph of kWh per mile or braking
energy, or both, would presumably be possible.
6. Both screens have touch-input capability.

A Wish List (might be possible, or might not):
1. I am hoping to add simultaneous GPS logging capability.
See SOC/GID-Meter and CAN-Do Info
2010 Prius
2011 LEAF, 2014 Tesla S85
2018 & 2019 Tesla Model 3
PU: SDG&E
Solar PV: 33 x 225W -> 7 kW max AC
Craigslist: Xm5000Li Electric Motorcycle

User avatar
TickTock
Posts: 1701
Joined: Sat Jun 04, 2011 10:30 pm
Delivery Date: 31 May 2011
Leaf Number: 3626
Location: Queen Creek, Arizona
Contact: Website

Re: The CANary project

Wed Feb 20, 2013 7:21 pm

garygid wrote:How do you plan to use the 6 supports that you included
on the back wall, presumably for the PC board?
Yes, those are for the PCB. I will add pins to them like I did for the displays on the next rev.
garygid wrote: In the v2 enclosure, you might want to consider adding:

1. A cutout to mount the USB full size port, and two screw holes.
2. A cutout to insert a mini-USB plug into the Mbed board.
3. A 9/32" hole, or "knockout", on the side for a cable from the OBD port.
4. A 0.25 inch hole, or knockout, for one switch on the side,
positioned so that there is room for the switch body
and possibly solder contacts on the inside.
5. Some small (1/16" perhaps) heat ventilation holes on each side,
perhaps 2 or 3 near the top edge, and the same near the bottom edge.
I didn't add any holes because drills work really well for that, but the USB punchout is a good idea - I could put several options (back, top, side). Also I may do something for ventilation as you suggest since an array of holes would be tedious to drill and I could do something that looks nicer. For the OBD cable, I intend to come out with a flat flex cable so it can slide easily under the trim so no need for a hole for that:
flextrim.jpg
This isn't the flex cable I intend to use - just a random piece I had lying around. I have a 20 conductor flex with zif connectors ordered for this project (~$5).
garygid wrote: 6. If any edge is too flexible, add a bit of thickness near/at the edge.
All the walls are .125" thick and seem pretty sturdy.
garygid wrote: 7. Make the non-bottom edges slightly rounded instead of "sharp" edges.
done
garygid wrote: A "knockout" would really be a hole/slot that is easy to cut
out with a sharp "hobby" knife, but still a flat outer surface
for cosmetics. So, a less-thick area surrounded on the inside
surface with a "groove" (wall perpendicular to the surface on
the outside of the groove, but something like a 45 degree wall
on the "inside" edge of the groove) that goes almost all the
way through to the outside surface. Holding it up to the light,
one should be able to see the "cutout" location easily.
great suggestion - I will do that.
garygid wrote: Super work.
Is it easy to mount the two displays, connect them to
the breadboard, and take a "real" picture?
sure. I didn't want to mess with the breadboard setup while I was debugging so I used a display I accidentally dropped on the concrete floor for the previous photo. I don't have a PCB to go inside yet but I can put the two displays in.
garygid wrote: Thanks for your continued efforts, Gary
I discovered a few other things I need to address in the next rev.
1) the surface behind the console is not flat. The enclosure rocks on two corners with about 3/16" gap on one corner when the other three are touching. Adding feet so they can be filed down to rest flat
2) displays are not quite aligned with the opening - need to shift the alignment pins a bit (25mils)
3) modified the shade to extend further and clear the console lip
4) adjusted the display angle
Here's what I've got so far:
Rev2a.jpg
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