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garygid
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Re: The CANary project

Fri Feb 22, 2013 10:21 pm

I would make the legs shorter, perhaps so that the center
just barely touches the small "hump" over the Nav screen.

I would prefer to have a flat bottom that I could paste a piece
of stiff paper over to keep out dust and debris. Then, I could
stick on 4 rubber "feet" in the 4 corners, to make it non-skid
and raise it, if necessary. For placing the feet, it would be nice
to have a horizontal flat area at each corner of the bottom,
perhaps 1/2 or 3/8 inch "square-ish".

But, perhaps you want it higher for "touch-ability" of the screens?

Speaking of screens, mine arrived from Serbia today, via DHL.
So, I could use some coaching on wiring these displays, please. :D

Very nice screen of the cell voltages. :mrgreen:

A vertical bar graph of the number of cell-pairs at each voltage
would give a quick-glance view of equalization. :o
See SOC/GID-Meter and CAN-Do Info
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garygid
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Re: The CANary project

Fri Feb 22, 2013 10:27 pm

Are you missing a "leg" on the left side of the front surface
of your rendering of your v2 enclosure?
See SOC/GID-Meter and CAN-Do Info
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turbo2ltr
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Re: The CANary project

Sat Feb 23, 2013 8:38 am

Am hoping to find a message on the canbus indicating the condition of the cars light sensor so I can dim the display whenever the LEAFs built-in instrumentation is dimmed. Worse case, I can add a cadmium sulphide cell to one of the spare analog inputs,
There is a message for the headlight status (0x625 on the can bus) Not quite the same but usable. The light sensor may also be in that message.
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TickTock
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Re: The CANary project

Sat Feb 23, 2013 10:59 pm

garygid wrote:Are you missing a "leg" on the left side of the front surface
of your rendering of your v2 enclosure?
No, it's just odd shaped due to the shape of the enclosure:
feet1.jpg
I will make them all shorter. I think I will also hollow the feet out down to the optimal distance for each corner so it will sit flat as it arrives, but you can cut off the hollow, thin-walled, section to set the right height for each. They will all have to be different lengths for it to sit with all four feet on the dash. I added rubber feet to the corner of rev1, and when I push three feet flat on the dash, the fourth is ~3/16 above - the surface back there has twist in addition to the curvature.
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TickTock
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Re: The CANary project

Sat Feb 23, 2013 11:01 pm

turbo2ltr wrote:
Am hoping to find a message on the canbus indicating the condition of the cars light sensor so I can dim the display whenever the LEAFs built-in instrumentation is dimmed. Worse case, I can add a cadmium sulphide cell to one of the spare analog inputs,
There is a message for the headlight status (0x625 on the can bus) Not quite the same but usable. The light sensor may also be in that message.
Thanks - I'll check it out. Headlight status should work but I'll see if there are other options. One of the displays I added was one that just displays which canbus messages changed so you can easily see cause and effect for the various sensors.

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Re: The CANary project

Sun Feb 24, 2013 7:50 pm

OK. Got a few blocks of time over the weekend to crank on the Rev2 enclosure and PCB. Gary, I took your suggestion on the snap in fixtures for the LCDs and PCB. In fact it was necessary. There isn't enough room inside to use the peg method for both PCB and LCD (once one is in you can't install the other). So I used the "snap" fixtures on the tight spots and the pegs where I had room. I should be able to push one end into the snap and then slide th other over the pegs.

I also figured out how to make the PCB mounted USB work. If I place it toward the bottom (but about an inch up to clear the dash adequately), I can tilt the PCB out far enough that the USB is flush with the back. Also added a support near the USB aligned to a hole in the PCB for a machine screw (so pushing a USB device in and out won't strain the PCB or push it off it's pegs.

I hollowed out three of the feet to the desired distance to make it rest flat on the dash so the walls can be cut off it one chooses to. Finally, there is a tiny hole up and right of the USB which aligns above a reset switch I added.
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TickTock
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Re: The CANary project

Sun Feb 24, 2013 8:04 pm

Here's the WIP PCB to help illustrate the USB and mount locations. Top layer (red) is toward the front of the enclosure. I would have liked to have put the RTC battery on the top side, but the LCD's are almost touching the PCB on that side. It'll be a little tricky to change the battery but should be possible without disassembling.
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garygid
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Re: The CANary project

Mon Feb 25, 2013 8:11 am

commects:
1. wall between the displays, you might want to round the sharp edge.
2. access to the mini/micro USB connection on the Mbed board for
re-programming or logging to the PC - seems dificult.
3. it appears that the only reason to have the circuit board forward so far is
to keep most of technology USB connector inside.
4. I would probably...
make the break-off part on the top of the board, to keep the bottom edge stronger.
Mount the board back almost touching the back wall of the box,
leaving more room for the headers, battery, and access to the mini usb.
I would slide the Mbed to the right edge of the board to make access to
the mini usb a lot easier.
I would move the USB to the right end of the box, on the pigtail, or possibly
use a right-angle connector on the left side. If one used 3 slide-in supports
instead of two, and one short pin support, one might get the USB connector
through the left end.
The support in the center of the board is probably not required.

more in next post
Last edited by garygid on Mon Feb 25, 2013 9:03 am, edited 3 times in total.
See SOC/GID-Meter and CAN-Do Info
2010 Prius
2011 LEAF, 2014 Tesla S85
2018 & 2019 Tesla Model 3
PU: SDG&E
Solar PV: 33 x 225W -> 7 kW max AC
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TickTock
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Re: The CANary project

Mon Feb 25, 2013 8:28 am

garygid wrote:commects:
1. wall between the displays, you might want to round the sharp edge.
I debated that.. Aesthetically, I like sharp clean lines. Maybe I soften it a bit but with a smaller radius
garygid wrote: 2. access to the mini/micro USB connection on the Mbed board for
re-programming or logging to the PC - seems difficult.
A little, but easier then accessing the programming port on the gid-o-meter. :-) I will probably leave the programming USB cable plugged in to the mbed when actively debugging/programming. There is room there but I agree may be tough if you have thick fingers.
garygid wrote: 3. it appears that the only reason to have the circuit board forward so far is
to keep most of technology USB connector inside.
Yes, I like having the logger USB connection in the back and the cabled USB port is bulky (at least mine is). The only place I could fit the cabled connector was on the right side wall and then it interferes with the programming USB connection. I could have rotated the mbed orientation and cut a hole for programming on the left side leaving the space on the right for a cabled USB datalogger port, but once I realized I could swing the bottom of the PCB out to make the PCB mount work I decided to go that route (didn't want a hole left over once I was done programming). Even pulled forward, there is still more clearance on the bottom than on the top. I am working on a 3d mechanical model of the board and the LCDs to ensure there are no collisions. You may be right that I will have to adjust to ensure the LCDs or center wall don't block the programming port. It's is tight in there.

garygid wrote: 4. more coming

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TickTock
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Re: The CANary project

Mon Feb 25, 2013 8:53 am

Hmmmm. I may just rotate the mbed 90 with the programmer pointing down... then I can better place it behind the more open areas. Ah well.

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