What eBay "auction" for the USB AVR JTAG Programmer, please?
I will email the hex file to you, at this point for your use only, please.
A. Powering the board:
About 8v is good for the board.
12v is high, and 14v is worse, and the on-board 5v regulator gets very hot, especially when also powering the LED display.
1. For testing and programming, I connect ground and 8v DC to the white 2-pin Power-In header.
2. For real use in the car, I connect a 5v 1watt zener diode between the OBD 12v (always ON 12v is on OBD pin 16, or "switched" 12v, ON during Ready mode or Acc2 mode, is on OBD pin 8) and the AVR-CAN board's Power-In on the "D" pin 9. Optionally, one can add an On-Off-On SPDT sub-mini toggle switch to chose between the always-on 12v and the switched 12v.
3. Ground is OBD pin 5 and pin 4 is "shield". I connect one to "D" pin 3 and the other to pin 6 (as I recall), which are both grounds. Or, I might have connected OBD 4 and 5 both to "D" pin 3.
B. Connecting the CAN buss:
1. This is not necessary for programming or testing, but one finds EV-CAN "high" on OBD 13 and "low" on OBD pin 12.
2. Optionally, one can choose to wire a DPDT sub-mini toggle switch (can be On-On or On-Off-On) to select between the EV and the "Car" CAN buss. The Car-CAN has its high on OBD pin 6 and low on pin 14.
3. The (selected) CAN-high input goes to "D" pin 7, and the low goes to "D" pin 2.
C. Connecting the LED serial Display:
1. Ground (GND on the Display card) goes to EXT2 pin 8. I use a 1x4 or 2x4 header-connector (0.1" centers) for the connection, a black wire for Ground. A 1x2 connector could be used instead, but one is less likely to make a mistake plugging in the 4x2 connector.
2. The 5v power (VCC on the Display card) connects to EXT2 pin 6, right next to the black Ground wire (#1 above), using a red "Power" wire.
3. The Serial Data Input to control the Display. The "RX" connection hole is at the other end of the 8-hole "interface" on the Display card. It connects to EXT2 pin 23, and I use a green wire to a 1x6 header-connector (but a 1x1 connector would be sufficient).
D. If the programming is successful:
1. The board's LED should come on for 2 seconds. Then, after a few seconds OFF, start to flash fast (10x per sec) while the board waits for a CAN-buss signal.
2. If the Display is attached, it will display "junk" because its default is only 9600 baud and the AVR-CAN is using 57600 baud. Unfortunately we cannot detect the Display's speed, but the SOC-Meter can try every speed to "set" the Display to 57600 baud.
3. In THIS version of the firmware (might change) ... To force this one-time setting of the display, have the "BUT" button (on the AVR-CAN board), held down (ON) at the 2-second mark after Reset/Reboot, and the LED will flash quickly 3 times, and the Display will "twich" while 6 baud rates are tried, issuing the "Set Baud Rate to 57600" command at each speed. After the one-time setting, this Display-Init should not be needed again.
4. Then, at any power-on or reset/reboot, one should see the firmware version number briefly (currently as "F1.05"), and the Display should show "----" while waiting for the CAN buss. Then it will show " GO " (or possibly "999.9") while waiting for the first "SOC" message.
5. For now, one sees the "SOC Percentage", for example " 98.9" might appear after a full charge.
NOTE: We are exploring the workings of the car, and this MIGHT NOT be an accurate SOC. It is just a number (I chose 281 as 100%) that the LEAF generates. It seems to go up when we charge (over 6 hours), and down when we drive. BUT, just because it indicates 21.3% ond the "Guess-O-Meter" ESTIMATES hat you MIGHT have 15 miles remaining (IF you keep driving as you have done in the "recent" past, does NOT mean that you actually have ANY guaranteed miles left. USE AT YOUR OWN RISK.
Right now I use it to gather data, and understand the LEAF's behavior better.
We believe that the "Low Battery Warning" usually comes at about 17%, and the "Very Low Battery Warning" at ... maybe ??? 10 to 8%? ... and that Turtle may occur around 5%, MAYBE. Some have experienced "very few miles" after the Warnings, and a VERY short Turtle mode (100 yards compared to other's perhaps 1 mile experience).
SO, DO NOT DEPEND on much mileage after the "VERY LOW" Battery Warning. It is not fun to wait for a tow ... and it "looks bad" for all LEAFs (and EVs) to see them on the backs of tow trucks!
Last edited by garygid
on Tue Jul 19, 2011 1:17 pm, edited 1 time in total.
See SOC/GID-Meter and CAN-Do Info
2011 LEAF, 2014 Tesla S85
2018 & 2019 Tesla Model 3
Solar PV: 33 x 225W -> 7 kW max AC
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