Leaf or Prius?

[LeftieBiker]

Just to restate my position. Cwerdna is right, but if you want a lower payment, and if you are willing to risk losing $2k then put $2k down. Most people don't total their leased cars, but some do. It's a financial risk, so treat it as one. If you won't be hurting if you lose the $2k, don't worry about it. Just be aware that it's a gamble.

[TreeStar]

I'll probably put enough down to get my payments under $300.

It was mentioned that the batteries have shown to be somewhat problematic? Losing bars?

It's really tempting to buy one used, but I want a longer range than what they have.

[cwerdna]

I'll probably put enough down to get my payments under $300.

You should calculate the total cost of the lease for the $0 down case vs. whatever you plan to put down.

Then ask yourself, are the savings over total cost of lease worth losing all $ paid so far (down payment + all payments thus far), if the car is totaled.

It was mentioned that the batteries have shown to be somewhat problematic? Losing bars?

You're in Oregon, amongst the mildest climate for temperature-based battery capacity loss.

The guy at https://www.facebook.com/groups/seattle ... 631254435/ is at 90.1K miles and still has all 12 bars on his '13. The previous record I'd heard of (at least for the US) was 1 bar gone at 89K miles at https://www.facebook.com/groups/seattle ... %22R%22%7D.

I'm still at 12 bars on my used '13 at almost 45K miles that was built 5/2013 that I bought in July 2015. From Leaf Spy stats, I've been creeping closer to losing a bar. I'm not in nearly as mild of climate as Oregon. In contrast, this is what Phoenix does to a Leaf built the same month: http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.p ... 95#p473995.

Did we already point you to https://www.facebook.com/notes/16224457 ... 373291032/?

Unfortunately, it seems like the 30 kWh batteries in '16+ SV and SL, '16 "S 30" and '17+ Leafs aren't holding up that well in terms of capacity loss. Either those folks have defective batteries or Nissan took a step back compared to batteries in 4/2013+ built thru model year '15 Leafs. Leaf from '11 thru '15 was always 24 kWh.

The only good thing is that the 30 kWh batteries have an 8 year/100K capacity warranty (if you're down to 8 bars, they'll replace it udner warranty) vs 5 years/60K miles on the 24 kWh. Problem is, we don't know if the capacity percentages for each bar are still the same on the 30 kWh Leafs. Before, down to 8 bars == a bit over 30% capacity loss.

[TreeStar]

I'll probably put enough down to get my payments under $300.

You should calculate the total cost of the lease for the $0 down case vs. whatever you plan to put down.

Then ask yourself, are the savings over total cost of lease worth losing all $ paid so far (down payment + all payments thus far), if the car is totaled.

It was mentioned that the batteries have shown to be somewhat problematic? Losing bars?

You're in Oregon, amongst the mildest climate for temperature-based battery capacity loss.

The guy at https://www.facebook.com/groups/seattle ... 631254435/ is at 90.1K miles and still has all 12 bars on his '13. The previous record I'd heard of (at least for the US) was 1 bar gone at 89K miles at https://www.facebook.com/groups/seattle ... %22R%22%7D.

I'm still at 12 bars on my used '13 at almost 45K miles that was built 5/2013 that I bought in July 2015. From Leaf Spy stats, I've been creeping closer to losing a bar. I'm not in nearly as mild of climate as Oregon. In contrast, this is what Phoenix does to a Leaf built the same month: http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.p ... 95#p473995.

Did we already point you to https://www.facebook.com/notes/16224457 ... 373291032/?

Unfortunately, it seems like the 30 kWh batteries in '16+ SV and SL, '16 "S 30" and '17+ Leafs aren't holding up that well in terms of capacity loss. Either those folks have defective batteries or Nissan took a step back compared to batteries in 4/2013+ built thru model year '15 Leafs. Leaf from '11 thru '15 was always 24 kWh.

The only good thing is that the 30 kWh batteries have an 8 year/100K capacity warranty (if you're down to 8 bars, they'll replace it udner warranty) vs 5 years/60K miles on the 24 kWh. Problem is, we don't know if the capacity percentages for each bar are still the same on the 30 kWh Leafs. Before, down to 8 bars == a bit over 30% capacity loss.

Great response.

The battery issue I recall reading was from the newer models.

I would love to buy a used one, but that range. What are they getting in real world conditions? They are rated at 84, right? I based a recent trip (I posted about here) on a car with a 90 mile range (to be on the safe side) and would have had no extra issues on this trip. I mean it wouldn't have caused a problem where I was needing to charge somewhere and wait. I could have charged at a destination.

The difference from a 2013 to a 2017 is about $10,000.

[LeftieBiker]

You might get 70 miles from a 2013 now. Or you might not. If you look at those, make sure you only consider cars built after 3/2013 (April builds are fine). Or find an early 2013 that has three or four bars lost, and has enough time left on the capacity warranty to lose a total of four.

[moneydown]

I traded in my 2008 prius for 2015 leaf. The leaf is a blast in comparison, and I use 0% gas instead of 100% gas. The battery range of even the new prius is laughable if I remember.
Have you looked at the Chevy Volt as a choice?

[TreeStar]

You might get 70 miles from a 2013 now. Or you might not. If you look at those, make sure you only consider cars built after 3/2013 (April builds are fine). Or find an early 2013 that has three or four bars lost, and has enough time left on the capacity warranty to lose a total of four.

That's probably enough range for most of my needs. I mean it is enough for most of my needs. 260 days (work days) of the year I only commute 26 miles a day. I've mentioned this elsewhere in this thread, but it's getting long now.

But if these make such a good used car, then the newer ones will make good used cars too. And with that $15,000 in incentives, that's a great chuck of the initial depreciation. So I can lease for 2 years then finance $11,395 for the remainder of the car.

[alozzy]

So I can lease for 2 years then finance $11,395 for the remainder of the car

$300 x 24 months = $7,200 + $2000 down = $9,200

That's the full cost of a 2013 SV + QC in your market.

I don't get it - why lease when you can own basically the same car after 2 years of the same payments and enjoy it from then on for next to nothing per month ($20 for electricity + insurance).

[LeftieBiker]

I don't get it - why lease when you can own basically the same car after 2 years of the same payments and enjoy it from then on for next to nothing per month ($20 for electricity + insurance).

That's basically the same car with a brand new warranty, a 25% larger battery that should have as much range after five years as a good 2013 has now, and a longer battery warranty. I wouldn't spend more than $7k for a 2013 now, and I'd consider leasing a 2017 SV with premium if it were $200 a month, with a $9-10k residual. Some of us want peace of mind as much as we want a bargain.

[TreeStar]

The incentives are not as good on the SV. It's a more expensive car with less off.

I like the app control and the wheels are better, but whatever. That's not worth it to me for the SV.