EVSEUpgrade.com - How to keep it from being stolen....

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jopeters41

New member
Joined
Aug 8, 2011
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Well I am going to order a unit from EVSEUpgrade.com for my upcoming Leaf. My question is how do you keep from this expensive unit from being stolen when parking somewhere out of my garage?
 
jopeters41 said:
Well I am going to order a unit from EVSEUpgrade.com for my upcoming Leaf. My question is how do you keep from this expensive unit from being stolen when parking somewhere out of my garage?
There is a provision to use a small padlock in the trigger mechanism. It will deter a casual thief, but it is not going to stop a person hell-bent on getting the EVSE. :cry:

And, since the pre-mod cost is now over $900, be careful where you use it.
 
In addition to locking the j1772 nozzle with a small padlock, you could open the windows a crack to let the cords through and keep the unit in the car. Of course you'd need an extension cord. I haven't actually tried this but figure it'd be a decent solution.
 
fooljoe said:
In addition to locking the j1772 nozzle with a small padlock, you could open the windows a crack to let the cords through and keep the unit in the car. Of course you'd need an extension cord. I haven't actually tried this but figure it'd be a decent solution.

Maybe. But if someone is malicious enough to steal your EVSE, why would they hesitate to break a window to get it?
 
Knock on wood; but we have had zero reports of units being stolen. Definitely record your serial number on the back of the unit in a safe place so you have some information in the event your unit goes missing.

It's possible for us to order a new J1772 cable/handle assembly for you if someone cuts or steals the cable/handle, but there is no way to replace the base unit itself, so place priority on securing it if you suspect if may be in danger.

The most likely scenario is copper thieves wanting your cable, as very few evil-doers are going to know the value of the EVSE.

The best security you can have on the EVSE is to make it as inconspicuous as possible so opportunity thieves won't be inspired. Here are some tips:

1. Fold your charge door down on the handle while charging in public. There is a little rubber bumper for this purpose. This will hide the handle at least and reduce visual impact.

2. Pull nose-in if possible to hide as much as possible.

3. Tuck excess cord away so it looks like less cabling.

4. Turn the EVSE over on it's face, or cover with gaffers tape so the lights are not visible. The pretty colors attract!

5. Use a padlock in the EVSE handle and/or lock the unit with a chain through the 4 holes. Master Lock #630D is a combination lock that has no keys to lose and fits well.

pic


pic


-Phil
 
Drive over the cords -- I haven't actually needed to do this yet but I carry a rubber strip salvaged from an old bicycle inner tube to wrap the cords for protection..
 
Ingineer said:
It's possible for us to order a new J1772 cable/handle assembly for you if someone cuts or steals the cable/handle, but there is no way to replace the base unit itself, so place priority on securing it if you suspect if may be in danger.
Somewhat off topic but how much would said J1772 cable/handle assembly be?
 
Spies said:
Ingineer said:
It's possible for us to order a new J1772 cable/handle assembly for you if someone cuts or steals the cable/handle, but there is no way to replace the base unit itself, so place priority on securing it if you suspect if may be in danger.
Somewhat off topic but how much would said J1772 cable/handle assembly be?
Looks like the OEM Yazaki assembly is going to probably be around $300 in quantity 1.
 
hpage said:
Drive over the cords -- I haven't actually needed to do this yet but I carry a rubber strip salvaged from an old bicycle inner tube to wrap the cords for protection..
I do not recommend this, both for the health of the cord, and the danger of entanglement. I'd say wrapping the excess cord under the hood in front of the charge port door, then shutting the hood is a better and safer trick. This way the extra length is hidden/protected, whereas with the tire method, the copper thieves don't need the 6 inches or so under your tire, they'll just cut it on either side.

I suppose if you are really worried, buy a decent 12AWG extension cord, and put the entire EVSE under the hood, and just run the "expendable" cord out. Beware that there is no built-in GFCI protection on the extension cord like there is on the J1772 cord, so using extension cords outdoors is not recommended.

For a long time, I've always plugged my converted Prius in via a socket inside the rear hatch, and ran the cord out the hatch. It wouldn't be too hard to install an additional J1772 inlet inside the rear hatch and charge my LEAF the same way.

-Phil
 
Ingineer said:
Beware that there is no built-in GFCI protection on the extension cord like there is on the J1772 cord, so using extension cords outdoors is not recommended.

Many outdoor plugs have GFCI (code requirement), which helps. I lopped off the end of an extension cord and wired on a GFCI plug. I'm using a Leviton 16593 plug I picked up from Amazon (currently $17.44).

Joule Thief posted a nifty way to secure an EVSE using $5 worth of parts from Home Depot yesterday on the Volt forum. He's attached a steel cable to the EVSE cable and locks the EVSE to the wheel.
 
I replaced the male plug on the L6-20R - 5-15p adapter cord I got from Phil with a GFCI plug (such as: http://amzn.com/B00207H5F4" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;) plus purchased a 240vac inline GFCIwhen operating at that voltage:

http://www.stayonline.com/detail.aspx?ID=13922" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
 
The first person to figure out how to bolt the EVSE into the car, wire it in full-time (without disabling the J1772 socket), and add a retractable 120v extension cord will win an Oscar and a Nobel Prize!

It's not plutonium we're working with here..
 
GroundLoop said:
The first person to figure out how to bolt the EVSE into the car, wire it in full-time (without disabling the J1772 socket), and add a retractable 120v extension cord will win an Oscar and a Nobel Prize!

It's not plutonium we're working with here..
This isn't too difficult. The easy way would be to just add another J1772 inlet back in the trunk (parallel with the front) and plug your EVSE in. Or build one of Chris' kits and wire that one in. All the wires you need to access are right there under the "hump" in the middle.

pic


-Phil
 
There would still be the small matter of having the hardwired EVSE disconnect from the vehicle when the power cord is unplugged. The LEAF is immobile if it detects the EVSE is connected.
 
johnr said:
There would still be the small matter of having the hardwired EVSE disconnect from the vehicle when the power cord is unplugged. The LEAF is immobile if it detects the EVSE is connected.

Thats a minor detail, you could probably have a relay disable the "virtual" J-1772 interface (disconnect the pilot signal wire), when the AC is disconnected. Of course you lose all of the protection of the EVSE by doing this.
 
This might be the best solution, if Nissan starts selling them in the USA:

http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=6209" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

They are expensive, however. In the UK they cost £146.67 = $235.19!
 
johnr said:
There would still be the small matter of having the hardwired EVSE disconnect from the vehicle when the power cord is unplugged. The LEAF is immobile if it detects the EVSE is connected.

Does it do that through the proximity detect of the mechanical connection of the J-1772 plug, or is it electrical? If it's based solely on the mechanical proximity detect, would wiring around the plug directly into the filter and control bypass it (or at least allow you to bypass it)? I don't think proximity detect is a signal on the J-1772 cable, its produced by the socket. So does it come in as a control signal into the car's internal control circuitry?

I guess the question gets down to: What would the control logic do if it saw power, pilot, and otherwise properly negotiated J-1772 protocol in the absence of the locally generated proximity detect? And is it easy enough to just rig a control switch on that if it is a problem?
 
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