100% trickle charge gets me 67 miles. Day 3

[davewill]

Three wires actually. Here's the install guide: Electric Vehicle Charging Station EV230WS–Installation, the guide notes, "NOTE: Use AWG 8 copper or aluminum wire rated 90 degrees C or higher." If I was going to hardwire it as they suggest, I'd use a flex conduit from the existing box. Remove the receptacle and replace with a metal plate for the conduit.

Other makers (Blink and SPX) have supplied NEMA 6-50 pigtails and used a receptacle. My Blink is installed that way, and it's been handy to be able to power off the unit by unplugging without going out to the service panel and flipping the breaker. If it were my unit, I wouldn't hesitate to use either a 6-50 pigtail or simply buy a heavy appliance cord for the 14-50 receptacle you already have. Keep the pigtail nice and short, Just long enough to reach the outlet. Depending on circumstance, you may find you have to rotate the receptacle to accommodate the plug.

Edit:Taking a better look at the install guide, it looks like you'd run the pigtail out the top of the unit, and assuming the unit is mounted next to the outlet, the plug would be the correct orientation for your "upside-down" receptacle.

[Mauileaf]

It seems indeed a 2-pole 40amp rated is my other purchase...my 240v is rated 50a, but again I haven't swapped out the breaker yet. It's still at 20amp. If I got the EVSE Uprade should I change it to 50amp...if I went with the Schneider then, yes of course I'll change to 40a.

Nice find on the pigtail! Haha. My upside down. I'm sure this is in relation to the previous owners and they're configuration too.

Decisions decisions.

[davewill]

It seems indeed a 2-pole 40amp rated is my other purchase...my 240v is rated 50a, but again I haven't swapped out the breaker yet. It's still at 20amp. If I got the EVSE Uprade should I change it to 50amp...

Actually, for the EVSE upgrade, 20a is just fine, no reason to change it.

[Mauileaf]

ok...done

EVSE Upgrade it is...easy..dont need to purchase an in home deal, all I need to do is plug into my NEMA 14-50r and done.

[Mauileaf]

i would take that plug out and put in the 20 amp plug (cheaper) and see what gauge wire you got running to it

haha..glad I snapped that photo! I'll call my landlord and see if he even remembers why. I'm not about the pull that thing. Definitely not qualified to do so.

I think 50a is typical for welding, which is what the handwritten label in the breaker box says. Who knows how you ended up with a 20a breaker there, but treat it as a gift. 20a is what you want if you are going to get an EVSEupgrade. I don't think you need to worry about wire gauge; it might or might not support 50a, but it should be good for at least 20a.

Now, as to your "definitely not qualified" comment, it's really not that big a deal. Talk to someone at a hardware store; tell them you have a 50a outlet in a wide box and want to put in an L6-20 outlet instead. They can show you the hardware (maybe $25) and how to wire it. All you need is that voltmeter you want to get, straight blade and Phillips blade screwdrivers, and possibly needle nose pliers. It's a ten minute job for you, or $150 for an electrician, your choice.

Ray

im going to do this

[Mauileaf]

So I checked out my 14-50 outlet and obviously has four wires..if I installed an L6-20r into the outlet and left one of the wires (looks like a copper? see picture below) not connected, will this interfere with the wiring at the 20A breaker if I only use three because of the L6-20?

or should I just get an adapter?

Thanks

[pchilds]

If the bare wire is not connected, it needs to be, it is the ground wire. I don't think the adapter will work without the ground connected.

[Mauileaf]

it's all connected to the receptacle (4 wires) but I haven't checked the breaker box. I tested with the multimeter and checks out fine.

[pchilds]

Sorry, I mis-read your post. I would go with the adapter.

[Mauileaf]

roger that...so I guess no power loss then..huh