arnis wrote:GFCI should be in the main house supply box anyway. Therefore location of disconnect relays do not matter.
People are whining so so much but almost nobody has ever died before and after that standard.
In years of EVSE use, I've never had it trip due leakage. And I've never heard it happens with others as well.
And I live in a "hell" climate in terms of moisture. Now if relay is moved closer to the handle, it changes NOTHING
in terms of leakage possibility.
Bring me some examples of real problems as well if you are so so sure that disconnect inside the handle design is
in any way dangerous (after it has been waterproofed).
If you can't explain it to to me, you don't understand it well enough.
Actually, it was more like "You do not really understand something unless you can explain it to your grandmother".
I know the standard, I do understand it, Read it and test your unit, see if it meets the standard. EV cables have disconnect specs, GFCI sensitivity specs, etc. If you are saying your home built unit has never tripped that means nothing or means it may have the wrong sensitivity or not even work at all. Where did you get the standard? Did you purchase the full standard with all the specs. Do you know that the EVSE must disconnect at the wall within XX milliseconds or removal. Do you understand why? Your premise that no one has died is ignorant for several reasons one that they don't commercially sell your unit and also you don't know that as a fact. How many people do your think have died working on a LEAF that do not work for Nissan? Do you know of any or heard of any people? I know of one for sure and a possible second. Those deaths are often not made public for many reasons. Bet you did not know that but it's true. How many pets do you think chew through EVSE cables in garages every year? You may be shocked pardon the pun. Who about cables cut by lawn mowers or frayed and energize garage doors? I've seen this more than once. Consumers do stupid things with charge cables and that is why they built this standard. I'm not going to convince you that it makes sense for many reasons just because you disagree. If you are sure your unit works correctly then test it, there are testing protocols, call Intertek or UL. see what you can get.