Safe Display of LEAF - Lock out Motion

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garygid

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 21, 2010
Messages
12,469
Location
Laguna Hills, Orange Co, CA
Some of us (like Nissan, and dealere) will want to "Display" our new LEAF, and let others "play" with the electronics, but without the danger of the car actually moving.

Ao, whenever the LEAF is displayed with Power On (so people can play with the Audio, Nav, etc,) is there and way to "lock" the LEAF from going into any motion mode?

For example, does putting the LEAF into ACC mode and then removing the RFID from the area keep the car from going into Ready mode?

Does setting the Parking Brake and then removing the fuse to the release-motor work?

The car can move with doors open, I presume, so no help there.

Is there some other fuse that could be removed, or sensor connection that could be unplugged, or a critical circuit connector (one to the Inverter?) to unplug, or a circuit where a hidden switch could be added to open (or short) some sensor?

Ideas?
 
Ooh! Me! Me!

I found that there are two accessory modes, at least one of which will definitely still run when the RFID is removed from the vicinity of the car:

First accessory mode - central stack "on", dash display "off" - press start button quickly with foot off brake. This mode is definitely sustainable with the RFID away from the car.

Second accessory mode - both displays "on" - while in first accessory mode press start button again (foot still off brake). Not sure if this mode is sustainable with the RFID away from the car yet, but you definitely can't get into drive or reverse from there. However you can get into neutral, so blocks are still a really good idea. I think you can also get into it via a single extended push on the start button without putting your foot on the brake, but I'm not sure.
 
Bah, I'm too slow - you guys beat me to it. I was going to suggest getting a nice heavy duty extension cord (yes, I know Nissan advises against it) and have the car plugged in. It's not a 100% solution (someone could kick the cord out and it requires access to an outlet) but it's certainly better than nothing.

As for mwalsh's solution - that's a good one, but isn't the car also able to be turned off from that state? I know Gary asked about a solution with the RFID out of "range", but to me that sounds like it would be a pain in the butt. I see someone turning off the car when messing around with it whcih means you would need to get the RFID back into range, turn the car back on properly and then move the RFID out of range again. ::shrug::

Another extremely low-tech possibility. I seem to recall a mention that the car wouldn't go into Drive if a door was left open (I can't really confirm this in the manual so it would definitely need to be tested first). If this is the case then come up with some solution that doesn't allow a door to close all the way (tape? a piece of wood or styrofoam?).
 
Having L1 plugged in, even if unpowered, SHOULD keep the car from being driven away.

However, it is too easy for a "visitor" to unplug the e-nozzle.
I would hope that we can discover a more-sure solution.
 
garygid said:
Having L1 plugged in, even if unpowered, SHOULD keep the car from being driven away.

However, it is too easy for a "visitor" to unplug the e-nozzle.
I would hope that we can discover a more-sure solution.
I believe there is a provision for a lock.
 
smkettner said:
garygid said:
Having L1 plugged in, even if unpowered, SHOULD keep the car from being driven away.

However, it is too easy for a "visitor" to unplug the e-nozzle.
I would hope that we can discover a more-sure solution.
I believe there is a provision for a lock.
+1 - This is what I plan on doing when displaying my car.
 
If the L1 charger is connected to the car, but not powered, does the presence of the proximity pin prevent driving?

If so, it would be easy to make a dummy "plug" that just goes into the J1772 port on the car and spoofs a present-but-unpowered EVSE.
 
GroundLoop said:
If the L1 charger is connected to the car, but not powered, does the presence of the proximity pin prevent driving?

If so, it would be easy to make a dummy "plug" that just goes into the J1772 port on the car and spoofs a present-but-unpowered EVSE.
Yes, I confirmed this at the Drive Electric tour here in Hillsboro. If the J1772 connector is plugged in, shorting the proximity pin, the light indicating that it was plugged in popped up on the dashboard and prevented me from putting the vehicle in drive. :D
 
garygid said:
Having L1 plugged in, even if unpowered, SHOULD keep the car from being driven away.

However, it is too easy for a "visitor" to unplug the e-nozzle.
I would hope that we can discover a more-sure solution.
So maybe what you want is a switch, hidden down in the engine - er, motor - compartment that provides a contact simulating the one the J1772 connector provides.

Ray
 
garygid said:
Can somebody check the door-open driving?

I've driven it with the door open and seat belt off when I wanted to align it in the garage better. It drives with the door open.
 
planet4ever said:
So maybe what you want is a switch, hidden down in the engine - er, motor - compartment that provides a contact simulating the one the J1772 connector provides.Ray
Sounds reasonable.
For a "no-modification" solution, what does the proximity pin require? Is it a magnet, dry contact switch, or electrical connection?
A single push-pin with a pull tab should be able to do it regardless. Put some tape over it or just don't call attention to it, and nobody (friendly) should mess with it.
 
Randy3 said:
I've driven it with the door open and seat belt off when I wanted to align it in the garage better. It drives with the door open.
Good to know - I can't remember now where this came up, and I apologize for continuing the rumor. I definitely won't repeat it again! :)
 
It might require 150 ohms (the 330 in series is normally shorted by switch "S3", and the 150 becomes 480 only when pressing the e-nozzle's "Release Latch" button.

But, 480 ohms MIGHT work to immobilize the EV.

However, one typically wants to be charging while displaying the car, and visitors might unplug the e-nozzle to try it out.

But, a padlock on the nozzle should work fairly well.

I was hoping for a more subtle solution.
 
garygid said:
It might require 150 ohms (the 330 in series is normally shorted by switch "S3", and the 150 becomes 480 only when pressing the e-nozzle's "Release Latch" button.
Totally correct! I forgot about the switch bypassing the 330 ohm resistor!
 
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