Who made this AC pressure sensor? What is the part number?

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arnis

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 23, 2016
Messages
1,043
Location
Estonia, Europe
There is a AC pressure sensor on gen1 Leafs that have heat pump.
This sensor has a different plug compared to those that don't have heat pump capability.
This sensor is sold as a assembly with AC-pipe. No Nissan part number.
All numbers are metric. Thread is also metric (M10x1 AFAIK).

I believe the "D" is the manufacturer's logo and 8610 could be manufacturer's internal part number,
or just detail nr (similar to 12P01).
Other side has plastic formula PPS-GF30. Nothing else has been observed, even with microscope.
Who is manufacturer and on what other vehicles/devices is that sensor used?
This is extremely important for me as the sensor failed :lol:
3-pin, ground-signal-5V. Signal got stuck at 4,9V no matter the pressure. Weight: 23.8grams

front-dim.jpg

socket.jpg
 
Are you not able to find the part via https://parts.nissanusa.com/Nissan_2013_Leaf-HATCHBACK-SV-ELECTRIC/HVAC.html?

I found a pressure sensor at https://parts.nissanusa.com/a/Nissan_2013_Leaf-HATCHBACK-SV-ELECTRIC/_84424_8166548/CONDENSER-LIQUID-TANK-amp-PIPING/ZE0U_US_276A_1.html, specifically https://parts.nissanusa.com/p/Nissan_2013_Leaf-HATCHBACK-SV-ELECTRIC/Sensor-Pressure/89975120/92136-1FA0A.html. Not sure it's right.

As you probably noticed, lots of parts in Nissans come from Calsonic (http://calsonic.com/climate-control-systems). Some sort of merger happened and now they've under the https://www.marelli-corporation.com/en/ brand.
 
This applies to part that is on versions WithOUT Heatpump.. aka Visia in EU and S in US.
Aka with 4 external tabs.

Yes it is that bad :?
 
I'm guessing that the Maxima never had a heat pump, so this is the version for Leafs with heat pump only, apparently. Salvage yards and Ebay dealers may be your only hope(s)...
 
How much do they want for the "assembly"? You're going to have to evacuate the system anyway...
 
205€ is the part (pipe+sensor).
Actual sensor price should be 25-30€.
For example, BMW 7-series, that costs more than 100 000€ - dealer sells for 60€ - that includes like 40% profit margin.
So no...200€ is absolutely not acceptable.
Salvage Yards is my best bet, but even those sell it as a assembly with gigantic shipping fee.

Replacing the pipe is stupid - instead of 5 minutes of labor it is like 2 hours.
Dealer said: you can throw the pipe away if you want to save on labor costs :lol: What a scam.

Second bet is to get any other sensor (they all work with 3 pins and likely all 5 volts) and get the plug (already asked dealer for that other trim level Leaf plug separately: "not available", no surprise) - I can solder new plug - not sure pressure-signal graph is identical though.

Nobody knows that LOGO?
Maybe run it through image recognition software :geek:
 
D could be Denso (e.g. https://www.denso.com/global/en/products-and-services/airconditioning/) since they italicize their brand name and definitely make automotive HVAC systems. IIRC, my '13 Leaf SV has a reversing valve (for heat pump) from Denso, which is a little unusual given how much Nissan buys from Calsonic.

I don't see any other logical companies at https://www.tokyo-motorshow.com/en/outline/exhibitors_list.html.
 
I think that Cwerdna got it. They likely make the heat pump and this sensor looks like it has a three wire plug/socket:



pct-03_09.png



It isn't identical but they have likely updated it since 2013.
 
Just a wild guess.

Looking at Denso designs, their AC sensors have totally different plug design.
Why should they design a new plug for Leaf.
And new Logo.
 
arnis said:
There is a AC pressure sensor on gen1 Leafs that have heat pump.
This sensor has a different plug compared to those that don't have heat pump capability.
This sensor is sold as a assembly with AC-pipe. No Nissan part number.
All numbers are metric. Thread is also metric (M10x1 AFAIK).

I believe the "D" is the manufacturer's logo and 8610 could be manufacturer's internal part number,
or just detail nr (similar to 12P01).
Other side has plastic formula PPS-GF30. Nothing else has been observed, even with microscope.
Who is manufacturer and on what other vehicles/devices is that sensor used?
This is extremely important for me as the sensor failed :lol:
3-pin, ground-signal-5V. Signal got stuck at 4,9V no matter the pressure. Weight: 23.8grams

front-dim.jpg

socket.jpg

92136-1FA0A i install it? but wire solder at other... pin at a sensor 92136-1FA0A at center!and not install
 
Graphs look similar. Slight difference doesn't actually matter for HVAC work.
But I wasn't able to get the plug from stealership.
Bot sensors appear to have same pinout. 0V signal and 5V.
 
Found used part from scrapped vehicle. My problem is solved but as of right now no new sensors are for sale anywhere.
Manufacturer is still unknown.

As a precaution I sealed the edge between plastic and round metal part with silicone. Maybe electronics got damp through that.
I have no other ideas how sensor failed.

Maybe I will cut old sensor in half later on.

Let this topic be a guide with bad ending.
 
Don't cut thru it at first. Use a lathe, or a hack saw, to cut all around the "crimp"--the rounded section where the metal was rolled over. Then the entire guts can be pulled out intact. Inspect and photo, then slice and dice.

i searched quite a bit looking for the part and for the logo with no luck, really strange that nothing could be found. i doubt there are any clues inside but maybe you can check to see.
 
Should I first immerse it in some liquid (with some color agent?) for a day? Then wash it with water. And then cut open?

Or I should expect some liquid damage anyway.
 
It depends whether you think it was leaking past the diaphragm, or that it just had an electrical failure of the sensor?

My guess is electrical failure of the Wheatstone bridge strain gage used as the pressure sensor.

If something was cracked such that it was leaking, then i believe you will see it when you slide it open. It can't hurt to inject some colored liquid into the pressure chamber; it would probably need to be pressurized somehow to force the crack to leak.
 
Ok, will not then.
As of right now I can say that when it was on the vehicle and in my hands, both ways it gave a signal of 4.8V out of 5V (input).
That is above maximum pressure it can measure and out of range for control unit. I added a resistor between signal and ground
to to drop it down into range so I could temporarily test vehicle circuit rather than suppose it is 100% sensor. And voltage did drop
and system did work - therefore I concluded it is the sensor.
 
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