Range Chart

My Nissan Leaf Forum

Help Support My Nissan Leaf Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
On the original chart you say "Charging on L2 one mile per 5 minutes of charge". At what speed does this pertain too? May be a good idea to list how long it takes to charge per bar instead so that you can predict how much mileage you can get given your desired speed. Just a suggestion.
 
marccbr said:
On the original chart you say "Charging on L2 one mile per 5 minutes of charge". At what speed does this pertain too? May be a good idea to list how long it takes to charge per bar instead so that you can predict how much mileage you can get given your desired speed. Just a suggestion.
I agree, it is confusing since there are so many types of "miles" on the chart. I think %SOC rates would be more clear.
 
TonyWilliams said:
7/50
6/60
5/70

Etc
The heart of the elegance is right there. I redid the chart in html so it would fit on the screen of my phone, but I hardly even look at that. Really, the following is good enough for an estimate:
6 miles per bar at 60 MPH
If I want, I can remember that if I go 10 MPH faster or slower I will lose or gain 1 extra mile per bar. And that takes care of figuring out freeway trips. On side roads it's always going to be better than that, but streets don't seem to produce the kind of anxiety the freeway does. And I can still pull it up on my phone if I really watnt to see the chart.
 
Jimmydreams said:
I think of it like this: ECO will maximize your range if you have little idea of how to do it yourself. If you already know how to maximize an EV's range, D works just as well and will get the same results.

The main reason I like ECO is to save my brakes. I really don't believe that 'D' will be able to do that nor can you obtain the higher m/Kwh because you'll be starting more from the lights. I would like to see someone match my 6.6m/Kwh in 'D'. I rarely have to use the brakes for normal stopping, just sometimes to keep it from 'creeping'.
 
Caracalover said:
I have to disagree, Eco mode will actually decrease your range in many situations. The slowing you receive when in ECO mode may force you to use power that you would not have to use if you were in D, or N. I want to call ECO Retard mode, in that it retards your performance. The regen you get from ECO is great when you are going to stop, but it is destructive if you are trying to maintain speed. You will never regain the same amount of energy you are using to get up to speed, but eco mode trys to regain as much as possible whenever it can. In D the retardation is not as great, so many will see better performance while using the same amount of energy. Using your foot to duplicate a Neutral is almost impossible. Try the same thing in ECO and I think you will see the difference, and start using ECO only for extra slowing power and regen. A light foot in D is pretty easy to do, and a whole lot more fun to drive. I use all three modes rather than trying to one foot it.

I disagree in city driving. I use ECO all the time and have achieved 6.7m/Kwh. Can you duplicate that in 'D'? I don't use full regen when slowing, so I don't lose much speed, but it is really great to use instead of the brakes. My brakes will last the life of the car. The brakes on my '90 Toyota Celica GT-S lasted at least 50% longer because I downshifted (auto) to slow the car instead of using the brakes. The LEAF's ECO regen works much better! I can vary it and it is really easy for me to put it in neutral with the pedal. Depending on the speed, it doesn't use many Kw. I've seen zero to 2 on the power meter. Maybe I'm the only one that finds it really easy to find 'N' with the pedal. I'll tell you one more tip: When I'm on city streets and timing the lights, I can put it on CC up to 45 (put it on 46, then drop it one) and it will go into 'N'. When I do have to accelerate (like from a stop sign), with ECO it helps to keep the power meter at one circle.
 
mogur said:
It was for my wife and is based on our long-term average which is 4.5 M/Kwh. SOC just confuses her. She wanted to know how long she needed to charge to add a given amount of miles if she was low on charge at home...
On my next revision, I'll add the charge by bar info...
Here's my current version:

You should have just added your 'charging' info, instead of copying the whole chart which is just the same as Tony's.
 
patrick0101 said:
I agree, it is confusing since there are so many types of "miles" on the chart. I think %SOC rates would be more clear.


My wife does not want, or need, anything other than what will aid her in figuring out the distance she can travel at a given configuration.

If we had a REAL "SOC" meter (it's coming !!!), then the chart can be modified to reflect good data. But, all we have to date is the 12 fuel bars.

She wants to drive 30 miles, and return. It's very easy to see that you need 9 bars at 60mph down the freeway, and 11 bars at 70mph. Obviously, a little cushion might be prudent, so 10 to 12 bars.

Now, she also knows that should the need arise, she can slow down to extend the range, also based on the chart. No where did she need to know much math. Almost ZERO. No percentages of charge, no kilowatts / mile, etc.

She can also figure it out without ANY chart just knowing how to count the fuel bars, and remembering 7/50, 6/60, 5/70... and 10/38 for when things aren't going so well !!

I've given the chart to my 9 and 10 year old, and told them how far we need to go, and how many fuel bars, and have them tell me how fast I can drive down the freeway to do it. They haven't failed me yet !
 
marccbr said:
On the original chart you say "Charging on L2 one mile per 5 minutes of charge". At what speed does this pertain too? May be a good idea to list how long it takes to charge per bar instead so that you can predict how much mileage you can get given your desired speed. Just a suggestion.


Roughly 3.3kw charging, and 4 miles/kw is a bit over 12 miles per hour, or 1 mile every five minutes. It was, and is, a very simple rule of thumb.

Clearly, it can be a whole 'nother chart. But, it's purpose was that if my wife was coming up a few miles short, how long did she need to charge. That was the number I used.
 
LEAFfan said:
I disagree in city driving. I use ECO all the time and have achieved 6.7m/Kwh. Can you duplicate that in 'D'?


I have to admit, I don't try to maximize range all that hard. I likely can but won't. You do with a heavy foot what I do with a light foot, accelerate slowly. When I try to go 35 on flat ground, and let off in ECO, I slow to 30 or less quickly, requiring me to push the pedal down and use energy again to regain that speed. In D I can pull my foot off and not lose as much speed, so it works better for me. I drive for a living and the right foot gets enough of a work out so I prefer to let the "transmission" do the work, like you I hardly ever use the brakes. It amazes me how people (in ICE) ride the brake coming down the mountain roads, I often wonder who taught them to drive. In the Leaf I can alternate between Eco, D, and N and keep up or pass people using no energy and even gaining regen - such a cool thing to do. I just don't spare the juice much since I don't have to. I am getting over 4 even so, although I hardly ever reset that meter. Doesn't the Leaf feel heavier when starting out in Eco? In D it moves with less friction feel, so while it requires more touch control to not use excess power, the car rolls easier, so it should use less energy. For instance, stop on a down grade and put the car in N, allowing it to roll using no power and see what speed you acquire at a given spot. Go back and do the same thing in D, monitor how much speed you gain and how much you regen, if any. Then try ECO. Use no pedal for any of these tests, and I think you will see my point. On some grades in Eco you won't move beyond creep, so you are not gaining Kinetic energy or regen. You can likely press the accelerator and get to a false N to get it to move using no energy, other than the pressure you are using on the pedal. I just can't feather my foot to not get heavy regen when I want light or no regen in ECO mode, and I think many drivers will find it hard to do as well.

Just turned 3000 miles today!!
 
marccbr said:
Alright did some calculations and came up with the following; it takes roughly 36min per bar given you are charging at 3.3 kw and the pack is a 24 kw pack.


But we only have about 21kw usable in the 24kw battery pack. So, 21kw divided by 13 fuel bars (12 you can see, and the final "no bar" fuel bar. So, about 1.65kw per actual fuel bar, and at 3.3kw recharging (assuming 100% efficient), so 1.65kw is half of 3.3kw, or about 30 minutes per fuel bar.

The other problem with the fuel bar equation, is that you don't really know where you are in reference to the current fuel bar. Is that fuel bar 100%, or 50%. Where are we starting from to add this fuel bar?
 
AMAZING how much time did it take you to do that chart. How many times have you tested the theory?

You MUST be an engineer !!!!

I have NEVER started car with range ever reading more than 91, any ideas what am i doing wrong

Is it very clear to get longest range go 40-50 miles/hr?

Do you suggest taking car out of ecco mode when going up 5 mile long uphill, and turning on ecco back on for downhill

Have you heard cost of replacing all the batteries in 5ish years when capacity will probably be 50% and range might be more like 50 miles?
 
RobertJay said:
I have NEVER started car with range ever reading more than 91, any ideas what am i doing wrong


What you're doing wrong is looking at the 91 number from the guess-o-meter !!!


Is it very clear to get longest range go 40-50 miles/hr?


Longest range is at 38 mph (according to Nissan) with climate control off, level roadway, not too hot or cold, tires properly inflated, etc.


Do you suggest taking car out of ecco mode when going up 5 mile long uphill, and turning on ecco back on for downhill


I don't use ECO mode except for regen on downhills. Sounds like a good plan.


Have you heard cost of replacing all the batteries in 5ish years when capacity will probably be 50% and range might be more like 50 miles?


Well, nothing, should that happen, because the battery pack is warrantied by Nissan for 8 years.
 
Actually, there is no written or published battery capacity warranty... But I'm not worried or concerned over it.

TonyWilliams said:
Have you heard cost of replacing all the batteries in 5ish years when capacity will probably be 50% and range might be more like 50 miles?
Well, nothing, should that happen, because the battery pack is warrantied by Nissan for 8 years.
 
RobertJay said:
Have you heard cost of replacing all the batteries in 5ish years when capacity will probably be 50% and range might be more like 50 miles?
Yes and that is called FUD.
 
mogur said:
Actually, there is no written or published capacity warranty...


True, and not suggesting that there was. However, in the USA, there are ways to challenge and have a quasi legal definition of what that warranty really means.

Should Nissan play hard ball with the battery warranty (and I seriously doubt they would), then it will get challenged by individuals or groups in court.

I don't lose any sleep over the battery.
 
evnow said:
oakwcj said:
I asked this question earlier in the thread without response, so I'll try again: I assume these estimates are based on the "D" setting and not on ECO mode. Is this assumption correct? If so, how much extra range can be squeezed out of ECO mode?
D & Eco don't matter that in - what matters to a certain extent is whether you are being careful with acceleration & braking. May be Eco mode helps there somewhat, personally I've not found any difference in m/kwh I get.

ECO claims to do a more aggressive job reclaiming power from the breaks, etc. Seems to be true, just try coasting down hill both ways. The rest (acceleration) is smoke and mirrors - this one thing seems real.
 
Back
Top