DIY Horn Upgrade Mod - Updated Jan 12

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U023 said:
I upgraded my honker today with the FIAMM horns. I mounted them away from the radiator to minimize impact to the cooling capacity. [...]
I used some stock L shaped aluminum mounted with self tapping screws to the aluminum impact absorber in the bumper.
It looks to me that the aluminum bracket is grounded. Is that correct?
 
It looks to me that the aluminum bracket is grounded. Is that correct?
The brackets are not separately grounded. The aluminum impact absorber they are mounted to appears to provide sufficient ground.
 
Honked the wimpy horn the other day. wow, it sucked.. Thanks to this thread, put the Wulu 320T horns in from underneath.. Pretty easy painless mod. Thanks to all that have contributed especially OrientExpress!

Now the horn has authority...

Unlike others have said, I think the lock beep actually comes from the new horns too. certainly the alarm horn comes from them.
 
No, the alarm horn and meep come from a separate sounder on the passenger side of the car.

geolizleaf said:
Unlike others have said, I think the lock beep actually comes from the new horns too. certainly the alarm horn comes from them.
 
aqn said:
I recorded the stock horn and the Fiamm El Grande with my Android phone. (Shoulda used my camcorder.)

Here are the two sound samples as viewed in AVS Audio Editor:

I don't quite understand the dB scale on the right, why it's in negative numbers, but regardless, the difference is about 3 dB, which means the Fiamms sounds about twice as loud as the stock horn.
Hi Folks,
I'm new to this board, and I've only got 12 days of experience with my Leaf; but I do know a lot about audio.

Virtually every consumer recording device (phones, camcorders, MP3 recorders, etc.) have some type of Automatic Gain Control (usually called "AGC" or "Limiter") which attempts to record any sound at the highest level it can manage without distortion. When you record two different horns with the same device and look at them in a waveform tool, you still have no idea what their relative volume is unless you are able to turn off all of the various AGC-like circuits and software all along the signal path.

If you don't own pro quality recording or video equipment, then the cheapest way I know to get accurate relative sound pressure level measurements is with a hand held meter like this one: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103667 which is $50 at Radio Shack.

pRS1C-2266248w345.jpg


Perhaps the cheapest way to measure the comparison between horns is to put your favorite song on your MP3 player with your favorite ear buds in place and the volume set to a repeatable level, and slowly walk toward the car from a distance while some one else is honking the car's horn. Stop when you can clearly hear the horn above your music and measure your distance from the car. If you aren't considerably farther from the car with one horn compared to another, then they aren't very different in terms of loudness. This may not measure true differences in Sound Pressure Level (dB SPL), but it should give some indication of dB GIA (Getting an Idiot's Attention).

Taking all of that into consideration, the most important measurement of a car horn's loudness is probably just this: Does it sound louder to you?

Best Regards,

John.

Oh, the negative dB numbers on the screen are a measurement compared to "full scale" which is the highest waveform peak that can be defined by that particular bit depth. In other words, if the peak of a wave form reads -3 dB, then that peak is 3 dB lower than the maximum possible peak for that file type. Just to confuse things, peaks are measured with an amplitude form of dB, similar to dBV and this is different from power ratios like dB SPL or dBA. An increase of 10 dB SPL represents 10x as much power, 3.16x as much amplitude (e.g.: voltage on a speaker wire or height on a wave form display), and is perceived by most people as twice as loud.
 
Thanks so much! I was honking the horn and trying to find out where it is. I was afraid the horn would be some kind of "integrated sound module." Glad it's simple!

What happens when you hit the lock button on the remote trying to find the car in the parking lot? Does the new horn honk loud enough to locate the vehicle? I was thinking that there might be a problem where the power to the horn is not supplied for an adequate time to "rev up" the bigger horn. If that happens, might have to add some circuitry to impose a few hundred ms "minimum honk time."
 
gatico said:
Thanks so much! I was honking the horn and trying to find out where it is. I was afraid the horn would be some kind of "integrated sound module." Glad it's simple!

What happens when you hit the lock button on the remote trying to find the car in the parking lot? Does the new horn honk loud enough to locate the vehicle? I was thinking that there might be a problem where the power to the horn is not supplied for an adequate time to "rev up" the bigger horn. If that happens, might have to add some circuitry to impose a few hundred ms "minimum honk time."
The horn is not a problem. The horn is a direct connection to B+ via a relay. But, the sounder for the lock/unlock is a different source.
 
OK, we need a poll on this or something. So far plug-and-play choices are:

2 Piece 12 Volt Electric Horn Set (110db) - $12.99
http://www.harborfreight.com/2-piece-12-volt-electric-horn-set-99911.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

FIAMM 74100 El Grande - Twin Horns (???db) - $16.65
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000DLBIGG/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Wolo Model 320-2T Maxi Sound Universal Red Low and High Tone Replacement Horns (???db) - $21.32
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00029XGQ4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?ie=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

PIAA 85112 115db 500HZ + 600HZ Sports Horn (115db) - $45.35
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00079V5ZI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

HELLA 003399803 Supertone 12V High Tone/Low Tone Twin Horn Kit (118db) - $54.40
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0030YWM0Y/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Stebel Nautilus Compact Motorcycle Air Horn (139db) - $54.99
http://www.amazon.com/Stebel-Nautilus-Compact-Motorcycle-Horn/dp/B000NPRTII" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
+ Optional wire harness
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0028ZKMM6/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_2?pf_rd_p=486539851&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B000NPRTII&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=00Y5BXS4HCY7V3KR59AD" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;


I ordered them by price. It would seem people are going for the FIAMM. Torn between FIAMM and PIAA.... Screw it. Going with FIAMM!
 
TRONZ said:
OK, we need a poll on this or something.

I went with the PIAA, but in 400/500 Hz. I liked that sound a little better than the 500/600 Hz...

http://www.amazon.com/85110-115db-400HZ-500HZ-Sports/dp/B00067BWBI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1316803299&sr=8-2" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
 
Leafboy said:
gatico said:
Thanks so much! I was honking the horn and trying to find out where it is. I was afraid the horn would be some kind of "integrated sound module." Glad it's simple!

What happens when you hit the lock button on the remote trying to find the car in the parking lot? Does the new horn honk loud enough to locate the vehicle? I was thinking that there might be a problem where the power to the horn is not supplied for an adequate time to "rev up" the bigger horn. If that happens, might have to add some circuitry to impose a few hundred ms "minimum honk time."
The horn is not a problem. The horn is a direct connection to B+ via a relay. But, the sounder for the lock/unlock is a different source.

The beep you hear outside the vehicle when you press "lock" is not the horn? If not, what is it?
 
Nope, the alarm horn and lock meep come from a separate sounder. It is possible to have that sounder also blow the horn if you wanted, however; you simply need to run a wire over.

gatico said:
What happens when you hit the lock button on the remote trying to find the car in the parking lot? Does the new horn honk loud enough to locate the vehicle? I was thinking that there might be a problem where the power to the horn is not supplied for an adequate time to "rev up" the bigger horn. If that happens, might have to add some circuitry to impose a few hundred ms "minimum honk time."
 
Are the El Grande "Red covers" attached/glued to the horn assembly or loose?
Mine came and both covers were unattached, there is a white blob or some kind of rubber substance on the body of the horn but I am not sure if this is supposed to hold the red caps on the horn or just be some crap to stop the plastic cover from rattling.
 
Brightonuk said:
Are the El Grande "Red covers" attached/glued to the horn assembly or loose?
Mine came and both covers were unattached, there is a white blob or some kind of rubber substance on the body of the horn but I am not sure if this is supposed to hold the red caps on the horn or just be some crap to stop the plastic cover from rattling.


Loose. The bracket and nut will hold them in place.
 
Anyone know anything about the Wolo 419 Bad Boy? Besides the irresistible name, it looks like it is a one-piece dual tone. I haven't found the amperage rating on it, but it looks tiny.

Edit: Looks tiny on the web, but it is hefty in real life. Still don't know current requirements.
 
nogajim said:
Anyone know anything about the Wolo 419 Bad Boy? Besides the irresistible name, it looks like it is a one-piece dual tone. I haven't found the amperage rating on it, but it looks tiny.

Edit: Looks tiny on the web, but it is hefty in real life. Still don't know current requirements.

This one will need a either a relay/battery connection, or a higher amperage fuse, as its startup current draw is higher than the stock fuse is rated for.
 
I recommend a set of standard "snail shell" duel tone horns. They are loud and can be installed with no electrical retrofitting. Read, "plug-n-play". Horns with air compressors will most likely need some additional current to operate properly.
 
OrientExpress said:
This one will need a either a relay/battery connection, or a higher amperage fuse, as its startup current draw is higher than the stock fuse is rated for.
Then it's el Grande or Harbor Freight for me. I'd rather stick with the present wiring. Thanks!
 
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