HOW TO: Make the VSP (noisemaker) button default to off

Good luck. Do report back what they find... I'm dying to know!

Check the fuses in the IPDM (large square box above the driver's wheel well, it's likely a blown fuse there.

If not, then check all the other fuse locations under the hood.

Pull each fuse out one at a time and test them with a continuity tester. Sometimes they can go open and not look obviously "blown", especially if your eyesight is not stellar. (They are small fuses!)

-Phil

http://img707.imageshack.us/img707/2221/photopcv.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Hope you all can see my hack job !! Its still at the dealer. One fuse in crooked, they found a bad brake switch that gave lots of dysfunction, and that was the main "fix" but they cant seem to get the car to eliminate the error codes. SO. they are flying in an ENGINEER from JAPAN. !!!!! WOw...will I be in trouble when..... LOL
P.S. !! Thanks for teaching me how to upload images guys (GeekEV)
Needless to say, that if I get this car back, I wont be doing any more hacking !!!

It seems likely the crooked fuse was you, but the bad brake switch? I don't see how that could be. Did they find your hack yet?

No mention of it. Like I said before, the VSP noisemaker works and HAS worked fine before, and after the hack. So, the soldering etc. must be good. I made it nice and neat, and cable tied it up in the harness.. BUT. If they look there, they will find it there. YIKES !! I will be arrested I just know it.... or they will empty my credit card in to THEIR bank....LOL!! :lol:

This is probably a dumb question, but you DID tape over your solder joints before tucking everything back in the wiring harness - right? :shock:

The engineer from Japan was likely on loan at their Tennesee plant (they've been taking turns there during the LEAF launch), so they're not coming from THAT far away...

Yes, there is shrink tube slid back on all the wires in the picture I posted
I just HAD to post that pic again, to show off my new upload pic prowess. So, yes, I heat shrank them, and then put it all back neat neat neat.
Anyone want to comment on the pin positions I soldered into from this pic? There must have been some changes in the harness for all this not to work, and the changes had to be in the VIN #s after you successful hackers and my VIN # ....(2018).

I did double check your pin positions and they look correct to me. The fact you didn't have 12v there is still strange. I can't imagine why they would have changed that...

Here's my "Analog" quick-n-dirty hack. It's inside the VSP, so it's largely invisible, and the VSP is off even before the car is ready.



-Phil

I managed to get all kinds of iKey errors when I borked the CANbus. It took a few days of driving for them to clear out of the system.

I never looked inside... That YMF807 is a sound synthesizer and amplifier. This might be the key to changing the VSP sound to the sound KITT makes.

turbo2ltr said:

I never looked inside... That YMF807 is a sound synthesizer and amplifier. This might be the key to changing the VSP sound to the sound KITT makes.

Click to expand...

It's a commonly available micro, and they kindly provide the programming/debug port right on the exterior of the case!

Definitely possible, but the speaker in front is pretty tiny, so no Ferrari V12's.

-Phil

Nice, Phil! The more hacks the merrier... Any chance you could post a schematic for those brave enough to undertake your more invasive approach?

GeekEV said:

Nice, Phil! The more hacks the merrier... Any chance you could post a schematic for those brave enough to undertake your more invasive approach?

Click to expand...

Actually, I think it's less invasive than cutting wires in my harness!

As usual, this is highly likely to damage your car, void your warranty, and set fire to the upper atmosphere. For information only, I do not recommend you use it for anything in particular!



Pin numbers are the connector on the VSP board. 3 and 5 are easy to get to, 11 requires hitting the PCB. Capacitor is a Tantalum 16v, but could be electrolytic probably from 4.7 to 10uF. Polarity is critical, negative towards transistor. Transistor used is a 2N5088, but many generics should work, such as a 2N2222. Unlabeled resistor off Pin 11 is 4.7k. All Resistors can be 1/8w or larger. Any small general-purpose switching diodes are fine for the 2 diodes.

-Phil

Cool beans Phil! I love the disclaimer!

Ingineer said:

..snip..

As usual, this is highly likely to damage your car, void your warranty, and set fire to the upper atmosphere. For information only, I do not recommend you use it for anything in particular!

..snip..

-Phil

Click to expand...

Ingineer said:

GeekEV said:

Nice, Phil! The more hacks the merrier... Any chance you could post a schematic for those brave enough to undertake your more invasive approach?

Click to expand...

Actually, I think it's less invasive than cutting wires in my harness!

Click to expand...

True, but I guess it depends on the confidence in your soldering abilities. I have none, so I went with wire taps. That wasn't very invasive at all… Of course, if you bork it up it's all invasive!

Wow Phil !! Im glad I didnt try THAT hack !! :lol: So here is the report youve all been waiting for: The LEAF is back from the dealer after it had a stroke after my hack. This is from the ticket, typo's and all:
LINE 51
Customer states T/M malfunction light is on:
p189D / P0571 / U1000 SHIFT CONTROL UNIT #12 FUSE SOCKET LOOSE
TENSION HAS WEAK CONTACT CAUSE NO POWER TO CONTROL UNIT
TRACE WIRE FROM CONTROL UNIT TO FUSE AND BRAKE SWITCH FOUND
LINE 52
CUSTOMER STATES I KEY MALFUNCTION LIGHT IS ON
SEE LINE 51

CUSTOMER STATES THE 3 LIGHTS DONT COME ON WHILE CHARGING PLEASE ASVISE MAKE SURE LIGHTS ARE WORKING THE WAY ITS SUPPOSE.
BLOW FUSE
PUT NEW FUSE AND CHECK SOCKET TIGHT AND SECURE

And FYI, the Engineer said to the Service advisor that the shift control unit has some problems with the connections that "just come loose with time" and there were two examples of this exact problem in all the leafs produced so far. Just 2. The service advisor said the brake switch was the main problem, then the computer wouldnt clear the codes after the correction. They wanted the original computer to take with them. My bad eyesight arranged for a daring attempt at checking the fuses, to wit, I put ONE in crooked, and one was actually blown. .... That I missed. Im only 57 !! Of course, I just had my Lasik, and its great, but Im not all the way healed. What a geriatric I am !! LOL ~~ !!!!! Good luck with all your hacks everyone. Hope you all can get that dam VSP OFF on the later Leafs....

I'm glad you got it sorted and it sounds like they didn't even discover your hack attempts and charge you for it.

Now, given that one fuse was blown, I'm inclined to suspect that may be why you didn't get the expected 12v on the proper pins. Now that it's all fixed, you MAY consider retesting those pins and try again. If you're brave enough...

gkalexdc said:

... I put ONE in crooked, and one was actually blown. .... That I missed. Im only 57 !! Of course, I just had my Lasik, and its great, but Im not all the way healed. What a geriatric I am !! LOL ~~ !!!!! ....

Click to expand...

Don't feel too bad, a blown fuse is not always visibly blown.

The circuit looks a lot like the one I built for my clothes dryer to automatically
turn off the annoying "wrinkle guard" "feature" that would beep and tumble the
clothes every few minutes after they were dry.