More typical is 18-21.5-ish kWh, depending largely on temperature. For example, I drive 100 miles, and average 4.8 miles/kWh, that infers 100/4.8=20.8kWh.
what varies by temperature? i am getting same "conflict" so have been tracking when i lose bars, the temp (via dash) and GID reading. it does have some drift to it. despite having a few days in the 50's its still a bit early to expect that on a regular basis but will see if numbers drift from temp changes.
There is some non-linearity, true, but it's still a lot better than the 12 bars on the dash. The graph below shows the non-linearity better, I think. I plotted the energy into the battery versus time and gids vs time during the same 100% charge. You can see that the energy into the battery is a very linear constant rate (as expected), but the gids do vary a little - particularly at the low end.
i see lower GIDs restored quicker but attribute a lot of that to less accuracy reading GIDs when pack is low and also less accuracy when pack is high. look at it like an analog gas gauge when the needle moves slowly when full or near empty and quickly in the middle. it should move at the same rate all the way thru when driving constantly? i frequently will gain GIDs when parking, sometimes as much as 9. the biggest gain did happen during a time of rapid temperature rise due to transitioning from cloudy morning to full Sun in afternoon.
But back to the topic of gids. If I recall correctly, we started discussing it last summer, and the thread carried over to this year. My original suggestion was 75 Wh per gid, which was pretty speculative at the time. If a gid really was 80 Wh, then we might have overestimated the amount of energy left in the battery after turtle. Evnow did couple of really nice plots and this table for usable battery capacity. TickTock presented very interesting plots as well, I will try to find and link to them.
the only thing we really know is what the car tells us so its battery bars, temp bars efficiency gauge and odometer.
there is something that is putting a slight skew onto these numbers that is varying from driver to driver. is it DC conversion errors caused by feeding different systems? gauges, 12 volt battery, etc?
most seem to be tied closely to temperatures as i have seen and i eliminated climate control completely on my tests and it still showed a reduced battery capacity so not only was my efficiency bad, my pack had less to give.
lead acid is affected by temperature much more than Li. could it be a significant diffference when temps are in the 20's and 40's? keeping in mind the battery is much smaller and its ambient temperature would very closely match OAT?
as far as GID i went to 8 on my test and that was with only 5 power circles remaining. based on how fast GIDs were dropping on the gauge, (they do slow down at the end) verses the rate of "circle loss" i might have been lucky enough to get to 6 ?
2011 SL; 44,598 mi, 87% SOH. 2013 S; 44,840 mi, 91% SOH. 2016 S30; 29,413 mi, 99% SOH. 2018 S; 25,185 mi, SOH 92.23%. 2019 S Plus; 3500.3 mi, 96.95% SOH
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