Finally did the mods

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mrradon

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 22, 2012
Messages
84
Disable VSP
Removed the VSP speaker to disable the noise maker. After testing with co-workers with and without, they couldn't tell unless I was going backwards that the Leaf was making any noise. I however, found the scrapping noise that thing made as bad as nails on a caulk board.
The speaker is easy to get to if you remove the front engine bay trim cover and the reservoir tank for the High Voltage Cooling system. I laid it on its side and slide my hand behind the driver bumper. A 12mm socket to remove the two retaining bolts, then I a plugged mating connector to cap off the unused connector in case I ever want to reinstall the speaker.
Interesting that the speaker is not sealed and has a paper cone!

Super Preheat
I also added a DPDT switch into a blank dash switch cover. I added to one side a 220ohm 1/8W axial lead resistor the other I shorted. To the common terminals I spliced into the red sensor lead to the in cabin air temperature thermistor with a connector (so I could easily remove the mod if needed) to splice in my DPDT mod'ed switch. Now when off, the cabin air temp reads normal (through the shorted bars). When on the cabin air temp reads a bit low (about 10F because of the added resistance). Since I have to park my car outside, and as it gets colder, I like to have a super warm car. So far testing seems to be right at 88F rather than the 77F Nissan thinks I want the car pre-warmed to. This will also work great to melt the snow off the car. I'm at 700' and get snow a lot more than Seattle does.
I also feel it helps dehumidify the car given this is Seattle. I also seem to note I use far less energy on cool days keeping the car at 73F, maybe preheating the heater fluid is good energy management.

The in cabin air sensor was harder to get to than the VSP speaker. The manual gave great info where the clips were. All the switch connectors came off easy. There was not much extra wire to the sensor so I used a small sealed Deutsch DTM series 2-way connector to tap into the circuit. I used some 18AWG wire to run from the switch blank on the driver left hand side to the in cabin air temp sensor and connect to the Deutsch connector.
After 3 trips to work and back I love the super heated cabin early in the morning. Can't wait for the snow...
 
As far as I know, the VSP system is some type of federal mandate. It will be an interesting feeding frenzy for the lawyers if you now have the unfortunate circumstance of having someone walk into your car while driving around the parking lot. If the car company is required by federal law to install the VSP, I wonder what, if anything, the law says about the owner keeping that in place.

Hopefully, you'll never have to find out.

(n.b. - I'm with you that the VSP is essentially worthless and annoying at best, just wonder what your actions mean in our litigious society)
 
mrradon said:
Super Preheat
I also added a DPDT switch into a blank dash switch cover. I added to one side a 220ohm 1/8W axial lead resistor the other I shorted. To the common terminals I spliced into the red sensor lead to the in cabin air temperature thermistor with a connector (so I could easily remove the mod if needed) to splice in my DPDT mod'ed switch. Now when off, the cabin air temp reads normal (through the shorted bars). When on the cabin air temp reads a bit low (about 10F because of the added resistance). Since I have to park my car outside, and as it gets colder, I like to have a super warm car. So far testing seems to be right at 88F rather than the 77F Nissan thinks I want the car pre-warmed to. This will also work great to melt the snow off the car. I'm at 700' and get snow a lot more than Seattle does.
I also feel it helps dehumidify the car given this is Seattle. I also seem to note I use far less energy on cool days keeping the car at 73F, maybe preheating the heater fluid is good energy management.

The in cabin air sensor was harder to get to than the VSP speaker. The manual gave great info where the clips were. All the switch connectors came off easy. There was not much extra wire to the sensor so I used a small sealed Deutsch DTM series 2-way connector to tap into the circuit. I used some 18AWG wire to run from the switch blank on the driver left hand side to the in cabin air temp sensor and connect to the Deutsch connector.
After 3 trips to work and back I love the super heated cabin early in the morning. Can't wait for the snow...

Interesting...

Could it be possible to disable the cabin heater by fooling the system that the cabin is at, for example, 20ºC. I understand that you placed a 220R resistor in series with the thermistor to fool the ECU into thinking the cabin temperature was lower than the reality. If we could place a resistor in parallel I think we could fool the ECU the other way around.
 
LakeLeaf said:
(n.b. - I'm with you that the VSP is essentially worthless and annoying at best, just wonder what your actions mean in our litigious society)

It means we need to start installing yellow flashing rotating lights on top of the cars so people who can't hear the oncoming traffic warning can see it.

hhmmm...no wait a vehicle generated static shock field 3 feet around the vehicle...hmmm...
 
Legalities aside, isn't it the same speaker that makes the beeps to let you know charging has started, doors unlocked, etc?
 
DarkStar said:
LakeLeaf said:
As far as I know, the VSP system is some type of federal mandate.
No it is not. There was a federal mandate to "research" VSP systems, however there is currently no federal mandate for one to be required on vehicles.

Nonetheless, in case of injury a good case could be made against you for deliberately disabling a device intended to provide safety to pedestrians.
 
Nubo said:
.............snip in case of injury a good case could be made against you for deliberately disabling a device intended to provide safety to pedestrians.
Your scenerio also included "driving around ... parking lot as well as pedestrian walking around. If you don't stop for a ped ... which causes ped to be injured, then there is at least comparative fault, whether the noise maker works or not ... even if you had a tug boat horn ... you didn't stop.
 
hill said:
Nubo said:
.............snip in case of injury a good case could be made against you for deliberately disabling a device intended to provide safety to pedestrians.
Your scenerio also included "driving around ... parking lot as well as pedestrian walking around. If you don't stop for a ped ... which causes ped to be injured, then there is at least comparative fault, whether the noise maker works or not ... even if you had a tug boat horn ... you didn't stop.

True, but there would be a difference in intent. An "accident", if you will, vs. the deliberate recklessness of disabling the warning system.
 
I have the new model without the switch.

I tested the unit and it still has the ability for a switch to be installed. I considered hooking up a momentary switch, but I didn't want to have to push a button every time and I saved a bit of weight pulling the unit out. Much more elegant solution.

If I hit a pedestrian with or without that system I am at fault.
 
mrradon said:
I like to have a super warm car. So far testing seems to be right at 88F rather than the 77F Nissan thinks I want the car pre-warmed to. This will also work great to melt the snow off the car.

Interesting mod I hadn't thought of.

Ok, so I'm good with 77F in the brutal San Diego winter, but prefer 70F in the summer. How can I do that?
 
TonyWilliams said:
mrradon said:
I like to have a super warm car. So far testing seems to be right at 88F rather than the 77F Nissan thinks I want the car pre-warmed to. This will also work great to melt the snow off the car.

Interesting mod I hadn't thought of.

Ok, so I'm good with 77F in the brutal San Diego winter, but prefer 70F in the summer. How can I do that?

To make the A/C run to precool lower than 77F, you need to reduce the resistance by putting a resistor in parallel with the sensor. I am planning to do this to make the controls think it is warmer than 60F this "winter" (in quotes because I cannot call it winter here in Phoenix, even in January) and to have better precooling next summer. I will post my results after I work out the details and implement it.

Gerry
 
You need the sensor resistance profile, it is not linear. The curve is in the service manual, here are the data points:
32F = 6.19K, 41F = 4.95K, 50F = 3.99K
59F = 3.24K, 68F = 2.65K, 77F = 2.19K
86F = 1.81K, 95F =1.51K, 104F =1.27K

Looks like a best fit curve for this senor data is: y = 0.1595x4 - 2.9304x3 + 20.963x2 - 78.444x + 175.17 [y = temp, x = resistance]
So for 70F you are shooting for 2.53K, but fool to the system that at 70F you really have 2.19K resistance it looks like a 16.3K resistor in parallel would work.
So when the car sensor reads 77F - (2.19K) the 16.3K resistor in parallel would lower the resistance to 1.93K (about 83F). Car keeps cooling, when it gets to 70F the resistor reads 2.53K, with the 16.3K in parallel you have 2.19K - car stops cooling...
You'd want a way to override this like I have.

Have fun....
 
mrradon said:
You need the sensor resistance profile, it is not linear. The curve is in the service manual, here are the data points:
32F = 6.19K, 41F = 4.95K, 50F = 3.99K
59F = 3.24K, 68F = 2.65K, 77F = 2.19K
86F = 1.81K, 95F =1.51K, 104F =1.27K

Looks like a best fit curve for this senor data is: y = 0.1595x4 - 2.9304x3 + 20.963x2 - 78.444x + 175.17 [y = temp, x = resistance]
So for 70F you are shooting for 2.53K, but fool to the system that at 70F you really have 2.19K resistance it looks like a 16.3K resistor in parallel would work.
So when the car sensor reads 77F - (2.19K) the 16.3K resistor in parallel would lower the resistance to 1.93K (about 83F). Car keeps cooling, when it gets to 70F the resistor reads 2.53K, with the 16.3K in parallel you have 2.19K - car stops cooling...
You'd want a way to override this like I have.

Have fun....

You're the man !!! Thanks.
 
JeremyW said:
Legalities aside, isn't it the same speaker that makes the beeps to let you know charging has started, doors unlocked, etc?
I don't think so. Someone in AZ has disconnected their pedestrian-warning speaker, and they did not report any ill-effects.
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