garygid
Well-known member
Would it be better, or at least jusr as "inspectable", if the stub wire ends in a junction or receptical box (which would get a blank cover over it)?
How to prep a New House for an EVSE
- Thread starter Yanquetino
- Start date
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LEAFer
Well-known member
Or install a NEMA 5-20R temporarily for general uses. Easier to recover and switch out later (rather than searching for that illusive wire later).
smkettner
Well-known member
Not with a 40a breaker and 240v. Need a 10-50R to pass code.LEAFer said:
LEAFer
Well-known member
Picky ! But, yes, you're right. Back to EVDRIVER's suggestion 
prberg
Well-known member
Some great info in this thread. I wonder if you guys can make a list of materials (maybe a sticky) for those who want to do the wiring themselves (or have their own electrician do it). I think it's good to say that no one should do home electrical work unless they are confident they can be safe about it (ALWAYS turn off the power, and confirm it's off before doing any work).
I was hoping to buy some supplies for the project but realized there are a few questions that I didn't know the answer to.
#1 - The 120V L1 charging outlet. I'm trying to setup my outlets and circuits for a 6.6kw charger (even though we only have the lower 3.3kw charger for now). I am going to put in an outdoor L1 outlet to charge the LEAF. I am going to put my chargers/outlets only about 2 feet from my main panel, so I'm hoping that will make things a little easier.
-Should this circuit be 20A? Is there any point to doing 15A? I saw that the Leviton L1 GFCI for EV charging is only a 15A. How much will the LEAF draw again (assuming we could get the 6.6kw charger?) I noticed that some 20A outlets have the 'T' prong (NEMA 5–20) and some have the standard one (NEMA 5–15). What is the difference here? Do I need the 'T' prong? If I do the 20A circuit and GFCI outlet, what gauge wire do you recommend? Does it have to be 'outdoor' wire? Or can it be 'indoor' since it's in conduit? Also what size conduit do I need to use? Is 1/2" enough if I'm only running this one wire in it? Do you guys like the PVC conduit or the older metal conduit?
#2 - The 240V L2 outlet/circuit. I'm still not decided between the AV unit, the 32A Leviton, or the Charge America (2104) unit. I would like my circuit to be able to handle either one. So should I get a 40A dual pole breaker? What gauge wire for this one? I've heard #8? Conduit size for this circuit? We are not sure about the actual outlet yet right? Will it depend on the charging dock or is there a standard here? I've seen the 6-50 outlet type mentioned for the Charge America unit. But might be good to wait until I select a specific EVSE?
Well thanks for any help you can provide. I've wired up circuits before, but now trying to plan for the LEAF (I'm hoping to get mine in December) I want to make sure I will be set for that car and hopefully will be future proof as well.
-Peter
I was hoping to buy some supplies for the project but realized there are a few questions that I didn't know the answer to.
#1 - The 120V L1 charging outlet. I'm trying to setup my outlets and circuits for a 6.6kw charger (even though we only have the lower 3.3kw charger for now). I am going to put in an outdoor L1 outlet to charge the LEAF. I am going to put my chargers/outlets only about 2 feet from my main panel, so I'm hoping that will make things a little easier.
-Should this circuit be 20A? Is there any point to doing 15A? I saw that the Leviton L1 GFCI for EV charging is only a 15A. How much will the LEAF draw again (assuming we could get the 6.6kw charger?) I noticed that some 20A outlets have the 'T' prong (NEMA 5–20) and some have the standard one (NEMA 5–15). What is the difference here? Do I need the 'T' prong? If I do the 20A circuit and GFCI outlet, what gauge wire do you recommend? Does it have to be 'outdoor' wire? Or can it be 'indoor' since it's in conduit? Also what size conduit do I need to use? Is 1/2" enough if I'm only running this one wire in it? Do you guys like the PVC conduit or the older metal conduit?
#2 - The 240V L2 outlet/circuit. I'm still not decided between the AV unit, the 32A Leviton, or the Charge America (2104) unit. I would like my circuit to be able to handle either one. So should I get a 40A dual pole breaker? What gauge wire for this one? I've heard #8? Conduit size for this circuit? We are not sure about the actual outlet yet right? Will it depend on the charging dock or is there a standard here? I've seen the 6-50 outlet type mentioned for the Charge America unit. But might be good to wait until I select a specific EVSE?
Well thanks for any help you can provide. I've wired up circuits before, but now trying to plan for the LEAF (I'm hoping to get mine in December) I want to make sure I will be set for that car and hopefully will be future proof as well.
-Peter
garygid
Well-known member
1. Breakers: 20a for the 120v and dual 40a for 240v. Be sure to get the type and style that your service panel accepts. Best to read the brand and "model" off of existing, similar-sized breakers.
2. Room in Service panel for Breakers: If you have enough room, usually that is good. Otherwise two 15a might be replaced with a "twin" 15a breaker, freeing up one slot. Likewise a "twin" 20a could replace two normal-size breakers.
3. Is there sufficient LOAD capacity: This is NOT easy to answer, and apparently not an exact science, somewhat open to individual interpretation, that of the final inspector being most important!
4. Conduit and wire sizes: <I leave that for others.>
5. Safety: Even with power verified (by measurement or test) to be OFF, handle any "connected" wires as if they are ON. The "last" connection is generally to a not-ON breaker, I believe.
2. Room in Service panel for Breakers: If you have enough room, usually that is good. Otherwise two 15a might be replaced with a "twin" 15a breaker, freeing up one slot. Likewise a "twin" 20a could replace two normal-size breakers.
3. Is there sufficient LOAD capacity: This is NOT easy to answer, and apparently not an exact science, somewhat open to individual interpretation, that of the final inspector being most important!
4. Conduit and wire sizes: <I leave that for others.>
5. Safety: Even with power verified (by measurement or test) to be OFF, handle any "connected" wires as if they are ON. The "last" connection is generally to a not-ON breaker, I believe.
smkettner
Well-known member
For the marginal cost of wire I would ALWAYS go with 20 amp.prberg said:
Installers prefer #14 wire when they rope a house as it is far easier to bend and connect when they do this full time day after day.
