ELM327-type OBD Bluetooth devices for Android Apps

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I have the ELM327 that is about the size of a cigarette pack. It has 5 lights on it. I have used it many times with my ICE cars without a problem but it doesn't seem to connect with my phone when attached to my Leaf. I get a single solid red LED on instead of the usual mad flashing when attached to my other cars. I get a steady "waiting for LEAF on the screen when in the Leaf Battery app. Anyone know what the issue might be?

tn_elm327.jpg


Thanks in advance!
 
kevinleaf said:
I have the ELM327 that is about the size of a cigarette pack. It has 5 lights on it. I have used it many times with my ICE cars without a problem but it doesn't seem to connect with my phone when attached to my Leaf. I get a single solid red LED on instead of the usual mad flashing when attached to my other cars. I get a steady "waiting for LEAF on the screen when in the Leaf Battery app. Anyone know what the issue might be?

[photo]

Thanks in advance!
I have that unit. Had some trouble with it today getting Bluetooth to work. Also had only the red LED illuminate on the reader. I unpaired the device from my phone. Rebooted the phone and paired it back up. Under "Settings/Applications/LeafBattery" I deleted all data. When I started the app it asked for which device to pair with, and a passcode ("1234"). After that all was fine again.

Checking several other people's LEAFs with my ELM & Phone ... I had to make sure to power-on their LEAF to get it to work before starting the app.

HTH.
 
Thanks for the advice. I unpaired the bluetooth device and re-paired and it worked just fine. Now I just have to figure out what all this data means ;-)

By the way the code for my bluetooth device, which appears as CHX is 6789
 
To modify the Vgate version of the ELM327 can you use a pin puller and swap the wires that way or do you have to desolder/resolder the wires?
 
The pin pulling I have not investigated.

The soldering is really simple, and if you cannot do it,
your children, wife, girlfriend, or neighbors are likely
to be able to help you.

An eXacto type knife kit is $1 at the 99 Cent store.

A soldering iron is also inexpensive, like $4 at Harbor Freight:
http://www.harborfreight.com/30-watt-lightweight-soldering-iron-69060.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

A bit of solder should be easy to obtain, you actually use only
an inch or less to pre-tin the pins that you are moving the wires to.

If you are around me, I will be happy to help, and others closer to you
might be willing to lend a hand if you ask for help.
 
has anyone taken apart the "slim" Simvalley adapter to see if it can be evcan modded?
(this one)
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CF88GEW/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&tag=rigratecom-20&creativeASIN=B00CF88GEW&linkCode=as2" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
 
So with the future EV-CAN capable app and modified ELM, we will get GIDs and everything on the CAR-CAN bus? Simulated GIDs are off at a low %SOC and it would be nice to have a real DTE estimate I can trust.
 
The EV bus does not provide many things that the CAR bus
provides. Each bus has its own merits. Thus, a switch (like
the GID-Meter has), or a 2-bus device (like the Mbed in the
CANary), can access more information.

GIDs are on EV bus, Braking and Regen data are on the CAR bus.

Fortunately, the Request-Response data (like the Cell-pair
voltages and the Battery Pack Temperatures) seem to be
available via either bus.
 
bradbissell said:
So with the future EV-CAN capable app and modified ELM, we will get GIDs and everything on the CAR-CAN bus?
I guess that means that the current "Leaf Battery" app can't take advantage of this modification?
 
No, it cannot at the moment (v25), but probably will be able to
before the end of the month, perhaps even auto-detecting
which bus it is listening to.

Hopefully, if you flip the switch, within about a second or two,
you would see GIDs (or %GIDs, whichever you have chosen)
instead of, or perhaps in addition to the 'Gids (simulated) that one sees now.
 
I'm having a heck of a time opening up the Vgate ELM327 to do the switched 12V mod. I drilled the four holes on the case but there don't seem to be any screws I can access. There's also a round black rubbery thing on the bottom of the unit that seems to be missing from the pictures on this site. If you look on Amazon one of the pictures shows this while the others show a modded one without it. Anyone have any tips on how to get it open?
 
michapok said:
I'm having a heck of a time opening up the Vgate ELM327 to do the switched 12V mod. I drilled the four holes on the case but there don't seem to be any screws I can access. There's also a round black rubbery thing on the bottom of the unit that seems to be missing from the pictures on this site. If you look on Amazon one of the pictures shows this while the others show a modded one without it. Anyone have any tips on how to get it open?

There's no reason to drill any holes. There are four phillips screws to take out. I happened to have a screwdriver that just fit the holes so I just punched it threw the label and unscrewed it. It was a piece of cake!
 
They must have changed the packaging then. Mine is all smooth plastic beneath the label without any screws. Once I drilled the holes it seems like there are four posts that might be holding it on but they won't unscrew. I'll keep trying until I open it up one way or another
 
I ended up taking some drastic measures and finally got the thing open. I think they're bonding the plastic together instead of using screws so it doesn't come apart as easily anymore apparently. I don't have that many skills in disassembly so it's possible someone better at it then me could take it apart and then put it back together without damaging it but I'd recommend changing the Wiki to tell people about this. Here's a video I made to show what I'm talking about:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9x15UTa_xQU&feature=youtu.be" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
 
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