Disappointment with battery capacity and "Nissan miles"

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planet4ever said:
We call it a "GID" on this board, in honor of member Gary Giddings who discovered it.
Ray

I would like to make a correction which most people don't seem to know or remember: Gary G did not discover the raw number/GID. I believe turbo2ltr did the 'sleuthing' and discovered the raw number which now we call a 'GID' because turbo2ltr then unselfishly gave Gary the data and info from which Gary then made a Gidmeter.
 
LEAFfan said:
planet4ever said:
We call it a "GID" on this board, in honor of member Gary Giddings who discovered it.
Ray
I would like to make a correction which most people don't seem to know or remember: Gary G did not discover the raw number/GID. I believe turbo2ltr did the 'sleuthing' and discovered the raw number which now we call a 'GID' because turbo2ltr then unselfishly gave Gary the data and info from which Gary then made a Gidmeter.
My apologies to turbo2lilter, and thanks for the correction. I do remember that turbo2ltr did a lot of early research in this area. I certainly hope I am correct though in saying that Gary was the first to create a practical meter exploiting this, and make it available as a kit.

Ray
 
dgpcolorado said:
themotorman said:
The class action suite that I heard abount only talked about the number of narrow bars showing .. Nothing in it mentions kWhrs stored.. If what you say is correct then the number will always be 12...however i think we are not being careful about which of the two bar graphs we are referencing. Can you please check on this or give us a reference to the narrow bars and what they show, and let us know. Thank you.
The fuel bars are completely different from the capacity bars. The narrow "capacity bars" (CB) are not a linear scale. The top one represents 15% of the original battery capacity and the rest 6.25% each. This information came from a 2011 service manual and has since been corroborated by Nissan representatives. However, in measuring Amp•hours with our meters we have noticed that the first CB is lost at a bit more than 15%. The Amp•hours of a new battery pack for a 2011/2012 LEAF was about 66.25. (The numbers are unclear for the 2013 LEAFs since the chemistry and measurement algorithms changed in mid model year.) The EEs here can correct me, but as I understand it Amp•hours make a better capacity measurement than kWh because the latter is so sensitive to small changes in voltage.

For actual driving use, Gids are the most useful measurement. Each Gid is approximately 80 Watt•hours. The 2013 models have a %SOC gauge, although it is based on relative, not absolute, capacity, so each percent will decline in energy as the battery degrades.

The new Nissan 60 month/60,000 mile battery capacity warranty will replace the battery if it gets down to eight bars, about 66.25% of original capacity. But the warranty says that it will be brought back up to at least nine bars, not that it will necessarily be replaced with a new battery pack. The first replacements under warranty in hot states have been new packs thus far. YMMV.

THat is what I thought and kw= volts x amps that's all and since the volts stays pretty constant it is reasonable to just amp-hrs for the Li batteries. Now i have not lost any of the narrow bars yet the most "miles" I get by the Leaf-o -Meter
is 73 now. That seems to mean that i haven't lost the first 15% BUT when the car was new I often got over 100 on the "leaf-0-meter". May be I am right on edge of loosing the first bar... The mystery is that I get 73 on the Leaf-o-meter but in real use I am getting only 45 miles... that is just not acceptable and after the holidays I will find out what Nissan have to say ...and I'll let you all know.
BTW Thanks for your comments and education on this topic.. I built my first EV in 1960 so have a little experience but certainly ready to learn more.
 
themotorman said:
Now i have not lost any of the narrow bars yet the most "miles" I get by the Leaf-o -Meter
is 73 now. That seems to mean that i haven't lost the first 15% BUT when the car was new I often got over 100 on the "leaf-0-meter". May be I am right on edge of loosing the first bar... The mystery is that I get 73 on the Leaf-o-meter but in real use I am getting only 45 miles...
Sorry, but we just don't care what the GuessOMeter says. It lies. Always has. In the morning it guesses based on what you did for the last five minutes last night. Live on a hill? It'll give you a low number. Live in a valley? You'll get a high number. Drive through a residential area the last couple of miles? Stupid computer will conclude you are going to drive 25 mph all day today.

So, when you used to get over 100 on the GOM, did you ever actually drive 100 miles without charging? If you've been driving EVs for more than 60 years, maybe you did, but most of us have seen GOM numbers over 100, and very few have gone that far.

Now, it's obviously true that one of the factors that the computer uses to guess at miles to empty must be some sort of estimate as to how much energy the battery contains at the moment. But there are a number of other factors, and some of them have undoubtedly changed from the good old days when you saw 100. Temperature? Commute route? Commute traffic? Speed limit changes? Road condition? Tire wear? Battery age? (A definite yes on that one, and I do mean age, not just degradation.)

Why don't you give us some real numbers to chew on? You did give us a few:
themotorman said:
I have had about 3.6 miles/kw-hr, energy usage since new . I drive the car about the same as a gascar around town and keep under 65 on the freeway. Most driving is about 60% street and 40% freeway. Not much air conditioning or heater.
Now fill us in some more: 45 miles from 100% or 80%? To Low Battery Warning or Very Low Battery Warning or Turtle or dead? What's your miles/kWh now on one trip? How many miles do you have on the car? How much air do you keep in the tires? How many battery temperature bars are you seeing? What's the outside temperature? Any snow or ice to deal with? Elevation changes in your drive?

themotorman said:
that is just not acceptable and after the holidays I will find out what Nissan have to say ...and I'll let you all know.
Sadly for you, we already know what they will say. "You have 12 capacity bars; you are in fine shape. There is nothing wrong with the battery until it gets down to 8 bars. You signed a paper when you got the car, swearing that you had read Nissan's cautions, including an expectation of 20% loss in 5 years, though even that was not guaranteed, and temperatures, driving habits, usage, and charging habits could further hasten the rate of loss. Come back and see us when you've lost 4 capacity bars, if that happens within 5 years and within 60K miles."

Ray
 
"You signed a paper when you got the car, swearing that you had read Nissan's cautions, including an expectation of 20% loss in 5 years, "

Hi Ray, I read the same thing in another post, however don't remember signing any such paper. I called the dealer where I bought the car, and they're not willing to share any such document with me. Would you mind sharing more details about this document? maybe even a scan? I would love to look at what Nissan is getting people to sign.

I feel Nissan has faltered in a big way here. They failed to be transparent to their customers about the driving range of this car. Nissan obviously knew (or they had better known before releasing a car to the public) what happens to the range in sub-freezing temps. They can't possible expect the public to study battery behavior in cold climates or various driving styles. If my car will loose 30-40% of its range after 1 yr. while driving in cold weather, Nissan should've spelled that out at the time of purchase. I don't see any other way for a large company to act.

All the technical aspects and explanation of charging behavious being discussed here such as amp. hours, capacity bars not being linear etc. is great for the Engineers in us. But I believe 95% of Leaf driving population only looks at and cares about the big fat range number on the dashboard. No body has time or wants to think beyond that number. My wife is furious that she can't take this thing to work anymore because of the reduced range in the 'cold' weather here in San Jose CA. She has to give up the carpool advantage and pay for gas at the same time.

I'm surprised there isn't a class action lawsuit already for false advertising and withholding important information from the consumer at time of purchase.
 
sgoyal said:
"You signed a paper when you got the car, swearing that you had read Nissan's cautions, including an expectation of 20% loss in 5 years, "

Hi Ray, I read the same thing in another post, however don't remember signing any such paper. I called the dealer where I bought the car, and they're not willing to share any such document with me. Would you mind sharing more details about this document? maybe even a scan? I would love to look at what Nissan is getting people to sign.

I feel Nissan has faltered in a big way here. They failed to be transparent to their customers about the driving range of this car. Nissan obviously knew (or they had better known before releasing a car to the public) what happens to the range in sub-freezing temps. They can't possible expect the public to study battery behavior in cold climates or various driving styles. If my car will loose 30-40% of its range after 1 yr. while driving in cold weather, Nissan should've spelled that out at the time of purchase. I don't see any other way for a large company to act.

All the technical aspects and explanation of charging behavious being discussed here such as amp. hours, capacity bars not being linear etc. is great for the Engineers in us. But I believe 95% of Leaf driving population only looks at and cares about the big fat range number on the dashboard. No body has time or wants to think beyond that number. My wife is furious that she can't take this thing to work anymore because of the reduced range in the 'cold' weather here in San Jose CA. She has to give up the carpool advantage and pay for gas at the same time.

I'm surprised there isn't a class action lawsuit already for false advertising and withholding important information from the consumer at time of purchase.

I agree with your sentiments. I am an engineer but also trusting and I was over enthusiastic that a major car maker had produced an all electric car. If I knew then what I know now.. ( song title ??) I would NOT have bought it.. Would I recommend it now to anyone? Yes as long as they listened to the real story so they could make a fully informed decision. The Leaf is a delightful local use car and that's the truth. I have been a proponent of a battery swapping system for over 20 years and hoped that we would have a standard battery so this would become a reality. If we had battery swapping, I called it "Batchange" , none of these discussions would be happening. I wrote a paper on this topic and would be pleased to send a copy to anyone interested. Briefly it solves the battery problems, both range and battery deterioration in one action. The downside is that all the car manufacturers would need to decide on a pack or as I suggested a multiple of smaller packs for simpler and more versital handling.
When I wrote the paper, after being in the EV field since 1960, I was very concerned that introducing an all electric car might be difficult unless the battery problem was solved. My concern was that inital excitement might easily give way to disolutionment and rejection..if not "done" right. I just hope this stumbling block does not make my prophecy turn out correct.
 
sgoyal said:
planet4ever said:
You signed a paper when you got the car, swearing that you had read Nissan's cautions, including an expectation of 20% loss in 5 years,
Hi Ray, I read the same thing in another post, however don't remember signing any such paper. I called the dealer where I bought the car, and they're not willing to share any such document with me. Would you mind sharing more details about this document? maybe even a scan? I would love to look at what Nissan is getting people to sign
You may not have signed that paper. I was responding to themotorman when I wrote that. According to his profile he got his car in June 2011. Yours says you got your car in November 2012. In 2011 Nissan was insistent that everyone had to sign before the deal was complete, but later they stopped doing that. They may not have required it for the 2012 models. I'll try to get around to scanning and posting the document later tonight. The one I signed was four pages long and titled 2011 LEAF CUSTOMER DISCLOSURE FORM.

Ray

Edit: Here is the document: 2011 LEAF Customer Disclosure Form
 
Pack swapping is not the answer, a more durable and energy dense battery chemistry is. Tesla is showing the way forward with their longer lived and more energy dense packs. Even a less energy dense but longer lived chemistry as in the Chevy Spark would have probably been a better choice. Nissan unfortunately didn't provide enough initial range to account for the quick loss of capacity that many experience and they didn't choose a durable enough chemistry. They also chose not to actively condition the temperature. Those choices are leading to accelerated capacity loss for too many. Before the LEAF came out I assumed they had thoroughly modeled all parameters and made a reasonable choice. Unfortunately that does not seem to be the case. Hopefully they can make improvements in the not too distant future.
 
planet4ever said:
sgoyal said:
planet4ever said:
You signed a paper when you got the car, swearing that you had read Nissan's cautions, including an expectation of 20% loss in 5 years,
Hi Ray, I read the same thing in another post, however don't remember signing any such paper. I called the dealer where I bought the car, and they're not willing to share any such document with me. Would you mind sharing more details about this document? maybe even a scan? I would love to look at what Nissan is getting people to sign
You may not have signed that paper. I was responding to themotorman when I wrote that. According to his profile he got his car in June 2011. Yours says you got your car in November 2012. In 2011 Nissan was insistent that everyone had to sign before the deal was complete, but later they stopped doing that. They may not have required it for the 2012 models. I'll try to get around to scanning and posting the document later tonight. The one I signed was four pages long and titled 2011 LEAF CUSTOMER DISCLOSURE FORM.

Ray

Edit: Here is the document: 2011 LEAF Customer Disclosure Form

they sure dont make it seem like an option whether you have to sign it or not...it was yesterday, so its still pretty clear in my head
 
sorry in advance for the size of pix but not really readable in a smaller format. again this is 4 pages. the page you cant see doesnt have much on it but there is nothing here about 80% after 5 years or 70% after 10 years... in fact there is hardly anything of any real substance at all on this thing. glad i did not read it before signing it.

one thing that stuck me as funny is their definition of "high speed" driving is "55+ mph"

20131220_124704.jpg
 
^^^
Yeah, I got that bunch of papers when I got my Leaf but my dealer barely even mentioned it and I never signed it. I still have the folder and unsigned papers. I skimmed over it and (at the time) notice the mention of 55+ mph being "high speed". LOL! Anyone living in the LA area would totally LOL about that.
 
cwerdna said:
^^^
Yeah, I got that bunch of papers when I got my Leaf but my dealer barely even mentioned it and I never signed it. I still have the folder and unsigned papers. I skimmed over it and (at the time) notice the mention of 55+ mph being "high speed". LOL! Anyone living in the LA area would totally LOL about that.

oh i didnt get to keep mine which is why i insisted on taking a pix first. i guess i could have argued about signing it but after reading it for the first time about 30 mins ago; it says hardly anything concrete concerning the battery at all
 
sgoyal said:
My car is 2012 and has about 12K miles. All software updates have been done by the dealer, and tires are at 40 psi. In the recent cold weather (mornings have been 25-30 F), the range on my Nissan Leaf has dropped from 70 to about 45 miles. This is all non-freeway stop and go driving under 50 mph. I am barely getting 45 miles without using heat or the front defroster. When I use those features, the range drops to around 35-40. This makes the car practically unusable as I can't drop the kids to school, commute to work and back (47 mile RT) .
.
How are you determining "the range on my Nissan Leaf has dropped from 70 to about 45 miles"? Ditto about the other numbers of "45" and "35-40"? Are you depending on the useless GOM (aka guess-o-meter aka "distance to empty" in Nissan parlance_? How low is the battery getting in terms of the "fuel bars" before you're calling it "done"? Are you hitting either the LBW or VLBW warnings? What about turtle?

Are you charging to 100% or 80% or something else? Have you let the batteries balance?

I live in San Jose as well but my commute's short (12 miles each way) and I have free L2 charging at work, which is my primary place to charge. I also have a '13 w/the more efficient heat pump heater.

As for "without using heat or the front defroster", you might be using it w/o realizing it due to the HVAC quirks on the pre-MY13 Leafs (see http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=6751" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;). On the '13, besides me having the more efficient heater, they added a dedicated heater on/off button.

And, I noticed in your earlier posts, you changed your tires. I wouldn't be surprised if they have higher rolling resistance and are cutting into your range.

I suggest you switch to LRR tires, get your alignment checked and pre-heat your car when plugged in AND use the heated seats and steering wheel to reduce demands from your power hungry heater. And, we REALLY need to know how you're determining range. Since you have no % SoC meter, you should get one of the "gid" meters out there or one of the Bluetooth dongles out there to use w/software that runs on Android. See below for examples of what I'm talking about:

http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=44&t=8527" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=44&t=14285" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=44&t=14284" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

The 12 fuel bars don't give you enough granularity and the GOM is crap. Using gids out of how many gids at 100% charge is a decent proxy for % SoC. Gids at 100% charge is a decent indicator of how much available capacity you have/have lost.

Also, can you charge at work? Even charging at 120 volts at 8 or 9 hours should give you a decent amount of extra range.

Besides you changing the tires, have you made any other changes from stock (e.g. roof rack, flags, bike rack, etc.)? What is your m/kWh reading on the dash? (on the black and white display) Is it reset for every trip? If not, please do so. It put together a questionnaire long ago at http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?p=275421#p275421" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; and now that I FINALLY have a Leaf.... maybe I'll go and revise it again.

(From http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?p=101293" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; and watching http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=hJudzKQftv4&noredirect=1" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;, I believe LBW warning will sound somewhere at 1 fuel bar left. I've seen LBW sound at % SoC 17 or 18 per the % SoC meter that's new to '13+ Leafs (you don't have it) and VLBW sound at 7 or 8 % SoC. Sorry, I wasn't watching the fuel bars and didn't care about the GOM but recall it changing to ---, I think at VLBW. I never took mine to turtle though.)
 
DaveinOlyWA said:
sorry in advance for the size of pix but not really readable in a smaller format. again this is 4 pages. the page you cant see doesnt have much on it but there is nothing here about 80% after 5 years or 70% after 10 years... in fact there is hardly anything of any real substance at all on this thing. glad i did not read it before signing it.
Yes, interesting rewrite indeed. The "Gradual loss" paragraph of the 2011 form I posted above said (after the first two sentences which are identical to the new version):
The rate of reduction cannot be assured, however, the battery is expected to maintain approximately 80% of its initial capacity after 5 years of normal operation and recommended care, but this is not guaranteed. This number may be higher or lower depending upon usage and care. Factors that will affect and may hasten the rate of capacity loss include, but are not limited to: exposure to very high ambient temperatures for extended periods of time, driving habits, vehicle usage, and charging habits (Quick Charging the vehicle more than once per day).
Yours says:
Although Nissan expects the great majority of vehicles to retain 9 or more bars of capacity through 5 years of normal use and mileage, the rate of reduction varies, and will depend upon your individual usage and operating environment. The rate of capacity loss will tend to be greater in the early part of your battery's life, but the rate of loss should decrease over time. Factors that will affect and may hasten the rate of capacity loss include, but are not limited to:
  • Sustained high battery temperatures (caused, for example, by exposure to very high ambient temperatures or extending highway driving with multiple quick charges)
  • Sustained high battery state of charge (caused, for example, by frequently charging to 100% state of charge and/or leaving the battery above 80% state of charge for long periods of time)
  • Higher than estimated annual mileage accumulation (such as more than 12,500 miles per year)
More detailed information about battery capacity loss and factors that can affect the rate of capacity loss is available in your Owner's Manual. For 5 years or 60.000 miles, whichever comes first, Nissan provides Lithium Battery Capacity Coverage under its New Electric Vehicle Limited Warranty for capacity loss below 9 bars of remaining capacity as shown by the vehicle's Battery Capacity Level Gauge.
Actually, except for the old "80% after 5 years" claim and "Quick Charging more than once per day" restriction, this section of the new version strikes me as considerably more specific than the old one. In particular, "more than 12,500 miles per year" is infinitely more specific than "vehicle usage" and should raise a red flag for any long distance commuter who really read it.

The other big change I spotted was the removal of the five specific range scenarios, yielding ranges of from 62 to 138 miles. But they did still claim those numbers, in a statement I consider ridiculous, saying, "When the battery is new, it is estimated that vehicle range with a fully charged battery under normal operation and various driving conditions will vary between 138 and 62 miles for the majority of people." Supposedly examples of some scenarios based on computer simulations can be found on http://www.nissanusa.com/leaf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; but I couldn't find them there. So I'm calling it a nonsensical and unsubstantiated claim. Besides, why should they use "computer simulations" for new battery range when they've been selling the car for two or more years?

Ray
 
it may seem more specific to you but it does not to me. they added the capacity warranty since it was not part of the 2011 and they are understandably specific concerning that part. you can see the revision date is 12/2012
 
planet4ever said:
Yours says:
The rate of capacity loss will tend to be greater in the early part of your battery's life, but the rate of loss should decrease over time.
They are still claiming this and Stoaty's model makes this assumption for some losses. For calendar losses, I suspect that both types of losses are present and that at the very beginning of life, the capacity losses drop using an exponential function, but at some point a different loss mechanism that drops linearly dominates. In very hot climates (or merely hot climates), this linear drop seems to become dominant very early in the vehicle's life.

The point is that while I agree that the rate of battery capacity loss will be higher in the early part of the battery's life, I do not agree that the rate of loss will CONTINUE to decrease over time. At some point any linear capacity loss mechanisms should dominate over exponential loss mechanisms.

As an example, consider member "cyellen" who experienced the loss of bars one and two during the summer of 2012 and bars three and four during the summer of 2013:
Bar 1 to 2: 73 days and 1400 miles
Bar 3 to 4: 64 days and 1500 miles

Of course this is anecdotal data since it is just one car but it indicates that battery capacity loss in the summer of 2013 occurred at an almost identical rate to what was seen in 2012. This makes me believe that in Phoenix the calendar degradation rate may have already become linear by the time the first bar was lost. Unfortunately, we have no way of knowing if this is true in other locations where the first bar may be lost much later. And of course the seasons confound any attempts to definitively pin down exactly what is happening.
 
planet4ever said:
sgoyal said:
planet4ever said:
You signed a paper when you got the car, swearing that you had read Nissan's cautions, including an expectation of 20% loss in 5 years,
Hi Ray, I read the same thing in another post, however don't remember signing any such paper. I called the dealer where I bought the car, and they're not willing to share any such document with me. Would you mind sharing more details about this document? maybe even a scan? I would love to look at what Nissan is getting people to sign
You may not have signed that paper. I was responding to themotorman when I wrote that. According to his profile he got his car in June 2011. Yours says you got your car in November 2012. In 2011 Nissan was insistent that everyone had to sign before the deal was complete, but later they stopped doing that. They may not have required it for the 2012 models. I'll try to get around to scanning and posting the document later tonight. The one I signed was four pages long and titled 2011 LEAF CUSTOMER DISCLOSURE FORM.

I signed a similar form in January 2013, for my 2012 Leaf (2013's were not yet out).

Interesting to note the form posted by DaveinOlyWA has a revision date of 12/21/12 but already includes wording of the battery capacity warranty. IIRC that was not announced to us until well after I got my Leaf.
 
Although Nissan expects the great majority of vehicles to retain 9 or more bars of capacity through 5 years of normal use and mileage, the rate of reduction varies, and will depend upon your individual usage and operating environment. The rate of capacity loss will tend to be greater in the early part of your battery's life, but the rate of loss should decrease over time. Factors that will affect and may hasten the rate of capacity loss include, but are not limited to:
  • Sustained high battery temperatures (caused, for example, by exposure to very high ambient temperatures or extending highway driving with multiple quick charges)
  • Sustained high battery state of charge (caused, for example, by frequently charging to 100% state of charge and/or leaving the battery above 80% state of charge for long periods of time)
  • Higher than estimated annual mileage accumulation (such as more than 12,500 miles per year)
More detailed information about battery capacity loss and factors that can affect the rate of capacity loss is available in your Owner's Manual. For 5 years or 60.000 miles, whichever comes first, Nissan provides Lithium Battery Capacity Coverage under its New Electric Vehicle Limited Warranty for capacity loss below 9 bars of remaining capacity as shown by the vehicle's Battery Capacity Level Gauge.
In other words, they mentioned everything except the elephant in the room--the climate where you live/work. In addition, they do not specify how much loss each capacity bar represents, making this disclosure a non-disclosure except for those who don't need a disclosure because it has already been disclosed to them through other avenues. :eek:

PS Aside from very hot climates like Phoenix, I don't think there is any evidence that calendar loss doesn't slow down as Nissan predicts... but there isn't any evidence that it does, either. ;)
 
cwerdna said:
sgoyal said:
My car is 2012 and has about 12K miles. All software updates have been done by the dealer, and tires are at 40 psi. In the recent cold weather (mornings have been 25-30 F), the range on my Nissan Leaf has dropped from 70 to about 45 miles. This is all non-freeway stop and go driving under 50 mph. I am barely getting 45 miles without using heat or the front defroster. When I use those features, the range drops to around 35-40. This makes the car practically unusable as I can't drop the kids to school, commute to work and back (47 mile RT) .
.
How are you determining "the range on my Nissan Leaf has dropped from 70 to about 45 miles"? Ditto about the other numbers of "45" and "35-40"? Are you depending on the useless GOM (aka guess-o-meter aka "distance to empty" in Nissan parlance_? How low is the battery getting in terms of the "fuel bars" before you're calling it "done"? Are you hitting either the LBW or VLBW warnings? What about turtle?

Are you charging to 100% or 80% or something else? Have you let the batteries balance?
...
Well? It's been more than a week and we haven't heard back.
 
My apologies for the late reply, we were out of town on vacation with limited web access. Please see my replies inline.

cwerdna said:
sgoyal said:
My car is 2012 and has about 12K miles. All software updates have been done by the dealer, and tires are at 40 psi. In the recent cold weather (mornings have been 25-30 F), the range on my Nissan Leaf has dropped from 70 to about 45 miles. This is all non-freeway stop and go driving under 50 mph. I am barely getting 45 miles without using heat or the front defroster. When I use those features, the range drops to around 35-40. This makes the car practically unusable as I can't drop the kids to school, commute to work and back (47 mile RT) .
.
How are you determining "the range on my Nissan Leaf has dropped from 70 to about 45 miles"? Ditto about the other numbers of "45" and "35-40"? Are you depending on the useless GOM (aka guess-o-meter aka "distance to empty" in Nissan parlance_? How low is the battery getting in terms of the "fuel bars" before you're calling it "done"? Are you hitting either the LBW or VLBW warnings? What about turtle?

I'm getting my range numbers straight off the dashboard. Again, I feel that the average consumer isn't going to spend the time to figure out what the charging bars mean. Do they represent a linear or non-linear battery capacity etc. We can not dismiss the range on the dashboard as a guess-o-meter and let Nissan off the hook. Having said that I do pay attention to the bars, and on at least 3 occasions, I started out with 100% charge (all bars) and about 80 miles range showing, drove the car in conditions mentioned earlier and only had 5-6 bars left. Since I wrote my post, the dealer drove my car with 80% charge, drove the car 14 miles, and only had 5 bars left. Nissan still won't admit there is a problem.

Are you charging to 100% or 80% or something else? Have you let the batteries balance?

I always charge my car 100% every night, no exceptions. I don't know what 'batteries balance' means.

I live in San Jose as well but my commute's short (12 miles each way) and I have free L2 charging at work, which is my primary place to charge. I also have a '13 w/the more efficient heat pump heater.

I also have free L2 charging at work, but there aren't enough stations, so people are sort of fighting over them. I don't like to depend on the work chargers to make it back home. I bought the Leaf, thinking my 40-50 mile daily commute would be without any range anxiety what so ever, Its clearly not the case

As for "without using heat or the front defroster", you might be using it w/o realizing it due to the HVAC quirks on the pre-MY13 Leafs (see http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=6751" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;). On the '13, besides me having the more efficient heater, they added a dedicated heater on/off button. Hmm… not sure about that, the car has been at the dealer twice for the range problem, they've never detected any problems with the HVAC system. There is a clear on/off button, so I'm certain it was off, not sure why Nissan would need another button. Again, Nissan can't expect people to think twice before using the heater to defrost the windshield etc. if the range drops significantly with heater usage, these issues need to be clearly explained to the consumer at the time of purchase.

And, I noticed in your earlier posts, you changed your tires. I wouldn't be surprised if they have higher rolling resistance and are cutting into your range.
Not sure where you saw that, but I'm using original stock tires. I didn't go back and check all my older posts however, its possible I may have written something confusing to make it look like I changed my tires.
I suggest you switch to LRR tires, get your alignment checked and pre-heat your car when plugged in AND use the heated seats and steering wheel to reduce demands from your power hungry heater. And, we REALLY need to know how you're determining range. Since you have no % SoC meter, you should get one of the "gid" meters out there or one of the Bluetooth dongles out there to use w/software that runs on Android. See below for examples of what I'm talking about:

http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=44&t=8527" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=44&t=14285" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=44&t=14284" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

The 12 fuel bars don't give you enough granularity and the GOM is crap. Using gids out of how many gids at 100% charge is a decent proxy for % SoC. Gids at 100% charge is a decent indicator of how much available capacity you have/have lost.

As mentioned earlier, I'm looking at my range on the dash. I have not taken the time yet to use any other methods you mention. I find it surprising that we're putting bandaids on a bad design and covering it up for Nissan by inventing creative ways to measure the range.. If their range meter is crap, then shouldn't we get together and complain to Nissan? For the average non-tech user, this car does not deliver. Don't get me wrong, I appreciate the helpful links, but I look at the Leaf as a half baked car that was pushed to consumers without any transparency or responsibility from Nissan, and they shouldn't get away with it. I've worked for Toyota for 6 years and a major Bay Area networking company for another 14, all on the New product development manufacturing groups, and can't imagine a product like this making it out the door.

Also, can you charge at work? Even charging at 120 volts at 8 or 9 hours should give you a decent amount of extra range.

Besides you changing the tires, have you made any other changes from stock (e.g. roof rack, flags, bike rack, etc.)? What is your m/kWh reading on the dash? (on the black and white display) Is it reset for every trip? If not, please do so. It put together a questionnaire long ago at http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?p=275421#p275421" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; and now that I FINALLY have a Leaf.... maybe I'll go and revise it again.

(From http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?p=101293" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; and watching http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=hJudzKQftv4&noredirect=1" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;, I believe LBW warning will sound somewhere at 1 fuel bar left. I've seen LBW sound at % SoC 17 or 18 per the % SoC meter that's new to '13+ Leafs (you don't have it) and VLBW sound at 7 or 8 % SoC. Sorry, I wasn't watching the fuel bars and didn't care about the GOM but recall it changing to ---, I think at VLBW. I never took mine to turtle though.)
 
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