iOS LeafSpy Pro Support

My Nissan Leaf Forum

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Drivelectric said:
I take the point that Bluetooth is easier than Wi-Fi, but the LELink doesn't seem to be available in the UK. I've searched around and found this variant of the iCar3 but I'm still not sure. Anyone tried it or know of a better alternative to the LELink?

http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00US6T9D0/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=GAKIVJJPNVA&coliid=IMOZ2LHHMXJRQ&psc=1

If all else fails I could import an LELink but it's a costly solution!

$35 on eBay. Ships worldwide.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/LELink-Bluetooth-Low-Energy-BLE-OBD-II-OBD2-Car-Diagnostic-Tool-For-iPhone-iPod-/141386682275
 
Marktm said:
Turbo3 said:
If you would like to test version 1.2.7 which addresses this problem please send your email address to the email address on the About screen and I will add you to the tester's group. You need to be running iOS 8+ to be a tester.


Yes, the LELink should work fine with your 5s.

Turbo3;
Will I need to get the beta version of Leaf Spy to work correctly with my 5s and the LELink? Also should I get the extension cord to mount the dongle out of "knee" range and also to allow removal without potential buss damage? I'm thinking that once all the hardware is installed,( my iphone is communicating with the Leaf thru Bluetooth currently), that opening the APP is all I'll need to do? I am going to read the wiki instructions in detail, but just trying to get the jist before I order.

Mark

Has anyone had recent actual experience with the iphone and the LELink (Bluetooth), combined with some type of extension cable using iOS 8+? Is there a preferred routing and position of the dongle - or is the Wiki article recommendation the best? Is it best to keep the dongle hooked up at all times and if so, does Bluetooth automatically recognize it once set up on the iphone? Seems the Bluetooth is relatively new for the iphone - and not much has been posted yet!
Thanks for any advice.
 
Just received the OBD II LE Link Bluetooth hardware, plugged it into the 2011 Leaf I'm driving, and voila, connection to the Leaf Spy Pro app on my iPhone. No connecting cable. No muss, no fuss.

I'm curious if leaving the hardware plugged in will draw any current when the car is "off"?

I'll poke around and see if the question is answered in the thread. Thanks for a great tool.
 
Hello,
I have just bought Leafspy Pro 1.2.5 en for IOS (I use an Iphone 6) and I have issues connecting it with my new Leaf MY2016 (30wh) using a Lelink OBD-II bluetooth dongle.
Using the console option I see the ATZ command ,then TDA61 V2.43 on and on, but no data flow is coming.
Have you an idea what is going on?
is it a dongle or a software issue?
The dongle is coming from outdoor-apps.com

Alexandre

UPDATE!
Jim sent me a testflight invitation for the 1.2.9 version and it works!
Excellent support! Thanks you Jim
 
Polling to see what different peoples' experiences are with different types of bluetooth 4.0 OBDII adapters.
Looks like the iOS LSP supportes the LELink, Kiwi3, and iCar 3.
I went with an iCar3, thinking they would all act more or less the same. Being used to Bluetooth 2.0 devices installation was a little confusing, I kept turning bluetooth on and off and on and off on my phone, and didn't see any new devices, also tried plugging and unplugging multiple times, same issue, nothing new showed up.
Then I turned on the LSP beta version and voila, connection established, and going back to the bluetooth settings the item appears as present.
Came back several days later, turned on LSP, no connection. Tried on and off on the car, no go. It took unplugging and replugging the iCar3 OBDII dongle again to make it reappear in LSP.

Is this how all the bluetooth 4.0 dongles work? Or can I get my iCar3 to work without un/replugging to show by doing some different sequence of things (car off, restarting LSP, starting car? Or starting car before LSP?) or do the different 4.0 devices act differently? If it takes un/replugging to get the OBDII to show again via bluetooth 4.0 maybe I'm better off with a wifi one that has a working on/off switch. Or maybe I need to do a hardware hack and solder in a switch if I can figure out which supplies power to the OBDII device.

I tried an iCar 2 wifi which is supposed to have an on off switch- it auto turned off which seems like a nice power saving feature, but didn't turn back on with the on button, I needed to un/re-plug as well. In retrospect maybe the VeePeak wifi which didn't auto turn off but at least had a working on/off button would have been the best choice, since it's even more of a pain to un/replug each time for use..
 
I'm curious if leaving the hardware plugged in will draw any current when the car is "off"?

Unless the reader has an on/off switch or something like auto-sleep, it will always draw some current, and that has resulted in a few dead 12 volt Leaf batteries. You can change the pin wiring to make it turn off with the car, though. Details are in this topic.
 
Has anyone got a recommendation on a rock-solid module yet? I went through two of those LELink from Outdoor Apps and ended up with the same issues on each.

I'd really like to find a module that just works.

Thanks,
Alan
 
AlanSqB said:
Has anyone got a recommendation on a rock-solid module yet? I went through two of those LELink from Outdoor Apps and ended up with the same issues on each.

I'd really like to find a module that just works.

Thanks,
Alan


You had problems with LELink, Bluetooth and the latest version of LeafSpy for iOS with iphone 5 or later?
 
Love LeafSpy - a handy window into what's going on inside my 2011 Leaf, with few other clues available to internal combustion veterans like me.

Your very capable app shows 64.8% of battery capacity remaining (182 GIDs), and Nissan warranties the battery "against capacity loss below nine (9) bars (or approximately below 70 percent) as shown on the vehicle's battery capacity gauge...". When I brought the vehicle into a dealer for battery replacement, however, a service tech reported 9 bars showing on the battery gauge, and on that basis my warranty claim was refused.

I could wait out the summer here in Southern California and likely see the bars drop to 8 before my warranty expires. But then I discovered their service measurement was taken minutes after Nissan had installed a software "upgrade", which magically added 8-10 miles of range to the car! By all appearances, Nissan is intentionally manipulating the car's OS, Volkswagen-style, to avoid the cost of battery replacement instead of accurately representing the battery's capacity on the battery gauge.

Question: can you provide the specific CAN frame identifier you're using to calculate GIDs, and why the calculation can be considered a sound and accurate measurement of battery capacity? I would like to approach them with a rational justification for my claim before our dispute moves into the legal realm.

I'm connecting to the car's diagnostic port using an LELink OBD-II. Thank you.
 
with at least 3 warranty years left and only 1 bar left to go, why bother with a legal fight, "as show on the vehicle's battery capacity gauge" is their out, and unless you had a photo of your gauge at 8 bars magically back up to 9 post software update you don't have a case I think. I think if you were at the equivalent of 7 bars (58%) and they were saying no on the replacement you have an easy case since even with rounding and optimistic assumptions it's hard to generate more than one imaginary bar (8%), but this sounds like rounding error on the 9th bar. If you're worried about hitting your 100k limit before you can get a warranty replacement just make sure in the next few months you don't follow any of the recommended advice for stretching your battery life.

onyerlefty said:
Love LeafSpy - a handy window into what's going on inside my 2011 Leaf, with few other clues available to internal combustion veterans like me.

Your very capable app shows 64.8% of battery capacity remaining (182 GIDs), and Nissan warranties the battery "against capacity loss below nine (9) bars (or approximately below 70 percent) as shown on the vehicle's battery capacity gauge...". When I brought the vehicle into a dealer for battery replacement, however, a service tech reported 9 bars showing on the battery gauge, and on that basis my warranty claim was refused.

I'm connecting to the car's diagnostic port using an LELink OBD-II. Thank you.
 
Marktm said:
AlanSqB said:
Has anyone got a recommendation on a rock-solid module yet? I went through two of those LELink from Outdoor Apps and ended up with the same issues on each.

I'd really like to find a module that just works.

Thanks,
Alan


You had problems with LELink, Bluetooth and the latest version of LeafSpy for iOS with iphone 5 or later?

I was using the currently released version at the time. The last one I sent back was on January 10th. Has it changed since then? I think it was the adaptors and not the LeafSpy because it also wouldn't work in my truck with EngineLink or Fusion. Something happened where the name of the device changed each time and then I could no longer connect.
 
interesting, my adapter was an iCAR3 bluetooth 4.0 version, and it works when first plugged in. Then it goes to sleep or whatever, and starting the car up again won't make it show. Need to unplug and replug. SalisburySam, you leave it plugged in, or unplug each time? Does it autosleep after about half an hour with no connection? Just restarting your car makes it come back to life? What model year Leaf?

Which seller for the ICAR3- I wonder if there are lots of unofficial clones- the Chinese manufacturers seem to copy each other a lot and sometimes they clone not quite exactly, for good or for bad. My iCAR3 bluetooth 4.0 came from Vgatemall seller on amazon which based on the name I would assume is as official as there would be.

SalisburySam said:
I'd really like to find a module that just works.

My iCAR3 continues to function well, have had no failures or glitches whatsoever. It is WiFi.
 
I just saw this screenshot posted. It has a "Reset" button under 12,612 Wh. Is this new? I have the same version but do not have that. I've been wanting it badly though! Does it reset all of the settings for a new drive?

file.php
 
donyjunk said:
SalisburySam, you leave it plugged in, or unplug each time? Does it autosleep after about half an hour with no connection? Just restarting your car makes it come back to life? What model year Leaf?

Which seller for the ICAR3- I wonder if there are lots of unofficial clones- the Chinese manufacturers seem to copy each other a lot and sometimes they clone not quite exactly, for good or for bad. My iCAR3 bluetooth 4.0 came from Vgatemall seller on amazon which based on the name I would assume is as official as there would be.

SalisburySam said:
I'd really like to find a module that just works.

My iCAR3 continues to function well, have had no failures or glitches whatsoever. It is WiFi.
Hi donyjunk. To your questions:

  • - I leave the iCAR3 plugged in at all times, no plugging/unplugging. Once one removed it to try on another vehicle, then reinstalled on LEAF.
    - The iCAR3 autosleeps after 30 minutes providing no further connection. Verified with my iPhone6.
    - Restarting the vehicle seems to restart the iCAR3. I'm able to connect my LeafSpyPro app on the iPhone6 every time.
    - I have a 2012SL
    - purchased the iCAR3 July 12, 2015 from Amazon and it was sold by a company called "ebuyerdeal."

I received and installed on the LEAF a few days after order. I had some problems initially with Dropbox access through LeafSpyPro, but that has long since been corrected. No problems to date attributable to the iCAR3. And it is so small I don't hit it with my knee, or even see it. Lastly, the iCAR3 I have is WiFi, not Bluetooth, and the network it creates defaults to the name "V-LINK".

Good luck!
 
LeafMuranoDriver said:
I just saw this screenshot posted. It has a "Reset" button under 12,612 Wh. Is this new? I have the same version but do not have that. I've been wanting it badly though! Does it reset all of the settings for a new drive?

file.php
I found the setting to activate the "Reset" button but it only resets the Wh/Regen calculator and nothing else.

Is there any way to put a Reset button to reset all of the data (a few different items when you tap it) that is under the big 42?
 
Three questions. Is there a leaf spy pro for dummies on this thread? I've read the about/help in the application help and I need help understanding
Ah
Soc
Gids
Soh?
My state of health SOH is %72 my GIDs is %66.5 I can get a replacement when the battery is %69 or lower. It still has 10 bars which seems like %80?
I'll keep re reading the about help but if anyone has a simple explanation that would be nice.
Also how can I figure out my cars range past the very low battery warning ?
How do I know if my battery is at 69% to be eligible for replacement ? Is it the gid percentage or the soh percentage ? Any help would be much appreciated
 
Jdooley said:
Three questions. Is there a leaf spy pro for dummies on this thread? ...

http://www.electricvehiclewiki.com/Leaf_Spy_Pro is a starting point.

Battery capacity warranty is all based on the LEAF losing four capacity bars.
Nominally is 66.25% capacity.
But they are often slow to disappear.
 
OK, thanks. I wonder if there's any reason the BT and WiFi versions would act any different w/r to restarting, or if the difference is in the car model year. I have a 2013SV. I wouldn't EXPECT any changes, but I also wouldn't expect the BT and WiFi iCar3 versions to differ in restart behavior. Ah well, I guess worth a shot. If it doesn't work, back to Amazon I guess.

SalisburySam said:
  • - I leave the iCAR3 plugged in at all times, no plugging/unplugging. Once one removed it to try on another vehicle, then reinstalled on LEAF.
    - The iCAR3 autosleeps after 30 minutes providing no further connection. Verified with my iPhone6.
    - Restarting the vehicle seems to restart the iCAR3. I'm able to connect my LeafSpyPro app on the iPhone6 every time.
    - I have a 2012SL
    - purchased the iCAR3 July 12, 2015 from Amazon and it was sold by a company called "ebuyerdeal."
Good luck!
 
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