6.6 kw charger on 2013 S model.

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QueenBee said:
... But really virtually all of the problems J1772 set to solve become problems again when you use a 120 volt portable EVSE so it doesn't seem like a big deal to me...
The EVSE set out to make the higher current connection in a safer manner.

If the 120V portable EVSE is being used correctly it should always be connected to the 120V source first before being attached to the vehicle.
The current when the 120V connection is made is very low just what powers the EVSE.

Much safer then plugging up 120V direct to the vehicle that immediately starts pulling 12 amps.

Is it a big deal?
That is an opinion judgement call.
 
TimLee said:
QueenBee said:
... But really virtually all of the problems J1772 set to solve become problems again when you use a 120 volt portable EVSE so it doesn't seem like a big deal to me...
The EVSE set out to make the higher current connection in a safer manner.

If the 120V portable EVSE is being used correctly it should always be connected to the 120V source first before being attached to the vehicle.
The current when the 120V connection is made is very low just what powers the EVSE.

Much safer then plugging up 120V direct to the vehicle that immediately starts pulling 12 amps.

Is it a big deal?
That is an opinion judgement call.

And if the poster correctly uses their setup it would always be switched off before being disconnected from 120 volt receptacle. No different than a portable 120 volt EVSE. You'd need a way to disconnect the EVSE or else the car would not drive and that switch would take the place of the J1772 handle switch.

So it's no different than a portable J1772, if you don't perform the disconnect steps in the correct order you are going to get arching. Like I said above a portable J1772 EVSE essentially defeats most of the safety features of J1772.
 
QueenBee said:
...
And if the poster correctly uses their setup it would always be switched off before being disconnected from 120 volt receptacle.
I agree on disconnect.
But it wasn't clear to me that on connecting to the LEAF it might start pulling 12 amps immediately.
Maybe I missed something and the relay configuration is being used to act as a disconnect until you flip a switch :?:
 
TimLee said:
QueenBee said:
...
And if the poster correctly uses their setup it would always be switched off before being disconnected from 120 volt receptacle.
I agree on disconnect.
But it wasn't clear to me that on connecting to the LEAF it might start pulling 12 amps immediately.
Maybe I missed something and the relay configuration is being used to act as a disconnect until you flip a switch :?:

I've thought about doing the same thing the OP proposed but wanted the extension cord on a short pull out reel. I never did it as figuring out how to mount it, and the EVSE etc. seems like more work than just pulling out the EVSE, especially after upgrading to the newer model that's smaller and has lighter cable. But If I were designing this I would hardwire the line 1 and line 2 in parallel to the J1772 inlet from the standard relays in the onboard EVSE I was installing and hardwire ground. Then the proximity wire and the pilot wire would be on a switch/relay. So you'd plug in the extension cord, flip the switch and it'd start charging. Then when you were done you'd flip the switch off before unplugging. Then you could also go the extra mile and implement some more of the J1772 features. Regardless of the manual switch if there is 120 volts coming in from the extension cord then send the proper resistance on the proximity line so the car knows it is plugged in. Then the switch in the off position could send the proper resistance on the proximity line for still connected but J1772 handle release button is pressed until 120 volts is disconnected. Or something along those lines.
 
I believe that we are talking about a possible danger in plugging the evse into the car BEFORE the evse is plugged into the 120v a/c outlet??? I don't think that it really matters... The 120v evse box goes through a self-check before the lights turn green and it is ready to charge... I used an electrical timer between the 120v outlet and the evse plug for over 6 months (so I could charge later at night) without any problems. Now I have the 240v evse, which has eliminated all charging problems....
 
powersurge said:
I believe that we are talking about a possible danger in plugging the evse into the car BEFORE the evse is plugged into the 120v a/c outlet??? I don't think that it really matters...
It matters if the LEAF is set to start charging immediately as the 120V plug will arc pretty bad when plugged in.

Didn't matter in your case as timer was off.

And I agree with QueenBee that portable 120V has same concern as hard wired 120V connection on the LEAF.

The key to safety in both cases is doing things in the right sequence.
 
I do not know how the Leaf charge would be set up. But I do know that 12a instant-on will spark when plugged in to an extention cord and that the female connector on the extention cord will go bad in about 6 months of usage in this fashon.

Thanks,
Dan
 
Durandal said:
kaiat said:
A bit odd, but why would Nissan know that the current charger will be replaced 04/20/2017?

That's a very good catch. Maybe that's when we will see Leaf 2.0?

Well, I see that the end date is now changed from 04/20/2017 to 10/27/2017. Delayed perhaps?
 
This GREAT NEWS.. because used stripper S cars with 3.3 KwH charger and no QC are Cheap Cheap Cheap..
regardless of age or mileage.

This conversion or rightly Swap is no challenge to many of us.

One of the great benefits of buying a leaf.. is the relatively large production numbers.. and evolutionary development
akin to the air cooled VW beetle of yore. This means a good supply of parts from wrecks and parted out cars.

Hopefully this will result in fewer plain S cars being parted
 
I just did the swap too. It took me about 7 hours of work. It is more work removing the parts around the charger, than the charger itself.
 
bzalex said:
I just did the swap too. It took me about 7 hours of work. It is more work removing the parts around the charger, than the charger itself.

Photos, please
 
blimpy said:
This GREAT NEWS.. because used stripper S cars with 3.3 KwH charger and no QC are Cheap Cheap Cheap..
regardless of age or mileage.
Your units are wrong. Charging rate is measured in kW, not "KwH".

Think of it another way: kWh/h or kWh per hour. Do the division. The h's cancel out, leaving kW.
 
The short story:

Initial charging estimate screen:
uc


Final one:
uc
 
Now the details:

First I've removed the front cover plastic:
uc


by removing the small plastic dots:
uc


The front cover removed:
uc


I've disconnected the 12V battery after waiting 5 minutes to allow the computers to shut down.
Then it took me about half of hour to figure out how to disconnect the main battery:
uc

uc

uc
 
Then the second plastic cover:
uc


The wipers motor:
uc


Some fuses box:
uc


And the metal cover:
uc


On the windshield I put a coat the protect the glass margins while working.

Removed the cooling reservoir and drained the coolant:
uc

uc

uc
 
After I've disconnected the 12V cables on the right side of the charger and removing all the screws, I've removed the charger cover. It is glued, so I have to use some force and patience to be able to remove it.
With the cover removed:
uc


Some detailed photos of the charger:
uc

uc

uc


Disconnected the communication socket:
uc


The water pump high voltage supply:
uc

uc


The AC cable:
uc


Then I've disconnected the rest of the cables, including the connection with the inverter on the right bottom side:
uc
 
Lifted up and removed the charger(two persons) taking care to not damage the bottom connection:
uc


The connections(except the water pump):
uc


Side by side(the new one is on the right):
uc


And with the new charger in place:
uc


After I connected everything back. I put the cover back(without screws) because it has a "cover missing" switch:
uc


I've connected back the main battery and the 12V battery to check the result:
uc


And a quick charging test just to be sure I can still charge the car:
uc


Glued back the cover:
uc


And Leaf spy 6KW/32A charging:
uc



About 40% in 1 hour!
 
Hello,

We have a leaf too and I'm thinking about upgrading the onboard charger, my wife drives it usually 80km a day but once a week she does around 120 - 140km and it might be a bit a problem in winter.

Would it be possible to have more informations about your car?
What was the charger part number you had and the one you put in place?

I don't know why but here in Europe the only "cheap" 6.6kw charger is the 292C0-3NF3B and I can't really find parts from a damaged / wrecked car.

Thanks
 
gugusse said:
Hello,

We have a leaf too and I'm thinking about upgrading the onboard charger, my wife drives it usually 80km a day but once a week she does around 120 - 140km and it might be a bit a problem in winter.

Would it be possible to have more informations about your car?
What was the charger part number you had and the one you put in place?

I don't know why but here in Europe the only "cheap" 6.6kw charger is the 292C0-3NF3B and I can't really find parts from a damaged / wrecked car.

Thanks
probably because in America the general standard of driving is lower. The US roads are much safer than in Europe but because of that the drivers are less attentive, thus the roads end up being more dangerous. You are not driving properly in the USA unless you are texting, eating fries, talking on a cellphone, doing make up, drinking a soda.. a really big soda, head turned to shout at the kids in the back seat or general distracted with anything but what is going on around you on the streets. I've been rearended, twice while stopped, both by drivers who where not even looking at the road or what was directly in front of them. So, ignoring my sarcasm, the truth be told we have a lot more wrecked cars due to the way of the land over here.
 
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