Anybody with 2011 or 2012 interested in upgrade to new battery?

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So we got back into the battery today and found this:

[youtube]https://youtu.be/ZgSd6iJI1u0[/youtube] <-Youtube code not working on my computer. What am I missing?

The BMS isn't looking too clever! Hopefully we can get our hands on another G1 BMS soon :)

Thanks for all the good wishes. If you have a G1 BMS for sale PM me please.
 
NiallDarwin said:
So we got back into the battery today and found this:

[youtube]https://youtu.be/ZgSd6iJI1u0[/youtube] <-Youtube code not working on my computer. What am I missing?

The BMS isn't looking too clever! Hopefully we can get our hands on another G1 BMS soon :)

Thanks for all the good wishes. If you have a G1 BMS for sale PM me please.

I have no affiliation with the following
http://hybridautocenter.com/HAC4/
They sell used parts for hybrids/ev's. I know they have a Gen II BMS, they may also have a Gen I. They would be very interested in your experience regardless
 
NiallDarwin said:
So we got back into the battery today and found this:

[youtube]https://youtu.be/ZgSd6iJI1u0[/youtube] <-Youtube code not working on my computer. What am I missing?

The BMS isn't looking too clever! Hopefully we can get our hands on another G1 BMS soon :)

Thanks for all the good wishes. If you have a G1 BMS for sale PM me please.


https://youtu.be/ZgSd6iJI1u0
 
So is http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nissan-Leaf-2012-BMS-for-battery-managing-WITH-WIRES-/332112802136?hash=item4d53773158:g:ywMAAOSwA3dYlBWS&vxp=mtr the wrong model?
 
Kris,
2011 and 2012 are "G1", you can recognise this from all white connectors.
 
Cor said:
...it appeared that the 2015 Leaf that they were delivering had a battery that had already been opened and parts were missing!
So, obviously they did not get that car and are awaiting the next auction where their buyers can find a 2015 or 2016 car that is not already stripped of some parts... To be continued.
OK, update on the battery swap/upgrade front:
The people that were interested in the packs had backed out, waiting for their battery to drop another bar (likely after summer) and in the mean time another person came forward who wants the upgrade done.
He will trailer his Leaf to me early March and we will do the upgrade then.
Today I heard that finally a new 2015 Leaf with very low mileage arrived at the Dismantler, so I will go there Monday to pick up the battery and remove the modules in preparation of the swap next month.
Also, I finally got my truck to run well with 2 Leaf packs. Range is probably close to 100 miles and it is a blast to drive it.
My only "problem" is now that I have at least 3 working EVs so I need to sell 1 or 2 of my Leafs if I want to keep the truck...
 
NiallDarwin said:
The BMS isn't looking too clever! Hopefully we can get our hands on another G1 BMS soon :)
Wow, yep - I have seen that happen several times. When an interconnect is missing where it should not (the exception is the service disconnect since the BMS has optical communication isolators mid-pack and at each end to allow the voltage to be anything at that point)
the result of a pack being loaded without interconnect tries to put -380 Volts across the BMS output that tries to monitor a single cell but now sees full pack voltage in reverse, instead of 4V. There is a little bit of protection: series resistors and a zener diode, but nothing that can withstand the brute force of negative 380V that can deliver hundreds of Amps.
I have one BMS where *every* single one of the 24 ASICs that connect to groups of 4 cells (2 modules), has a crater in the plastic chip where the silicon spewed out in liquid form...
Anyway, get another BMS, move or program that IC9 and it should be good to go.
Success!
Cor.
 
Kris1 said:
Also interested to hear your thoughts on swapping the new double thickness ( https://www.dropbox.com/s/qt88me809t3w5w2/1.25kwh.jpg?dl=0) modules into a G1 battery case.
Hi Kris,
Aha! so that is how the new 30kWh modules look like!
They appear to be a drop-in replacement for a pair of 24kWh modules, so I see no issues - I presume that they kept the order of the module interconnects the same, so I suspect that it is simply a matter of stripping the 3 sub-packs from the 30kWh battery of all their wiring and bus bars, fit the 2011/2012 bus bars and monitoring harness on the sub-packs, then first *measure* the voltages produced by the sub-packs to be indeed 90, 90 and 180Volts or higher *and* preferably measure the voltage on all BMS connectors to follow the correct cell numbering scheme as in the 2011/2012. Then mount the 30kWh modules into the G1 shell and attach all interconnecting bus bars (the critical one being the jumper between the two front quarter-packs!!!) before you plug the BMS in. By that time you should have 180V or higher between each of the inside connections to the black contactor box and the service disconnect and once the service disconnect is in, you should have 360V or more.
It seems doable to me and mechanics should work if thickness is indeed 2 2/3" as I expect (two old modules stacked together)!
Hope this helps,
Cor.
 
Cor said:
Today I heard that finally a new 2015 Leaf with very low mileage arrived at the Dismantler, so I will go there Monday to pick up the battery and remove the modules in preparation of the swap next month.
OK, another update: today I drove (in the downpour) almost 300 miles (round trip) to pick up the battery.
First thing the dismantler said when he recognised me: "did you get my email?"
me: "Huh? When did you send it?"
him: "This morning, after I came it."
me (confused): "No, what is going on?"
him: "The battery is sold. We hired a new guy and while I was away last Saturday, he sold your battery.
We had taken the battery already out of the car so everything was ready for your pickup today (Monday)
but when I came in this morning, I noticed it gone, so I checked and it is sold and picked up already..."

I wanted to curse, since I had just struggled 3 hours through torrential downpour in a borrowed pickup truck to go there
and now the whole purpose of going there disappeared before my eyes.
The manager was very apologetic because he knows that I have been waiting a long time and he promised to do everything he could to see if he can get another car soon so he can offer me another battery....
Well, this was quite the plot-twist and so I had an even less pleasant 3 hours back through the rain...
To be continued!
 
So I got the replacement BMS in ok but some of the cells were pretty much dead-one at about 0.7V and one at about 1.6V! Here's what I did to fix them:
https://youtu.be/mBBk1ABKftg

After charging them as described above they came back to life and the car ran happily :D So I filmed a reverse spin-turn to celebrate:
https://youtu.be/slJOe7zzEd0

Unfortunately the low cells are not being brought into line by the BMS so I think they may be damaged. I am seeing a voltage difference of 100mV most of the time. Sometimes down to 60mV but when on full-power it can go up as far as 180mV. So I'm on the hunt for four good G2 modules in NZ to replace the bad ones.

I'm still planning a "how to swap batteries" video, basically summarising what I've done and pointing out the easy pitfalls to avoid!
 
NiallDarwin said:
Unfortunately the low cells are not being brought into line by the BMS so I think they may be damaged. I am seeing a voltage difference of 100mV most of the time. Sometimes down to 60mV but when on full-power it can go up as far as 180mV. So I'm on the hunt for four good G2 modules in NZ to replace the bad ones.
It is well known that over-discharge will increase internal resistance of cells, so as long as they don't destroy themselves and come back they might have higher self-discharge and they typically sag deeper than other cells during high current discharge.
NOTE that cell 73 always reads lower during high current discharge, since it has the inter-pack connection voltage drop measured in with the cell voltage (the other pack connection is outside the measurement as it bridges the service disconnect and opto-coupler, so both sides of the interconnect are connected to the BMS, while cell 73 receives one measurement wire from one sub-pack and the other sense wire comes from the other sub-pack, so it measures both cell and the jumper between the two quarter-packs, adjacent to the contactor box.

Note also that the BMS only balances at 10mA of current, so if cells are out of balance or have higher self-discharge then the BMS will have difficulty getting them in line again.
 
NiallDarwin said:
So I got the replacement BMS in ok but some of the cells were pretty much dead-one at about 0.7V and one at about 1.6V! Here's what I did to fix them:
https://youtu.be/mBBk1ABKftg

After charging them as described above they came back to life and the car ran happily :D So I filmed a reverse spin-turn to celebrate:
https://youtu.be/slJOe7zzEd0

Unfortunately the low cells are not being brought into line by the BMS so I think they may be damaged. I am seeing a voltage difference of 100mV most of the time. Sometimes down to 60mV but when on full-power it can go up as far as 180mV. So I'm on the hunt for four good G2 modules in NZ to replace the bad ones.

I'm still planning a "how to swap batteries" video, basically summarising what I've done and pointing out the easy pitfalls to avoid!

hell with the batteries! wanna trade houses? :)
 
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