Looks like you're next in line, please PM me your address.Rusher said:Just checking on the status of the programmer and if it can be sent to me?
GregH said:Ok, the final dozen are being assembled over the next week (or two).. Two of them are already spoken for.
As I dive into this last batch I thought I'd share a few photos of how I put these things together just for the sake of historical documentation
Start off with the 3D printed shells, the OBD2 Cables (which I clip and wrap the 12 unneeded conductors leaving the 4 I need (GND, 12V, EVCAN-H, EVCAN-L)), as well as the LeafDD PCBs hand soldered by my friend Vo for $10/pop (When she solders, it looks like a machine did it.. when I try SMT soldering it looks like a 12 year old did it).
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Then the 4 wires are soldered in place and the cable is secured with two zip-ties. BTW, the unpopulated components were for digital lines and serial communication so that the LeafDD could be used as the front hub of a Chademo charger supplying all the signals to the Chademo connector while talking serially to a DC power supply... I just never tried it. That little regulator on the top left is what makes that corner get toasty warm.. If the temp sensor in the 8051 processor detects things getting too warm it will dim the display in software to prevent over heating.
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The boards are powered up by a female OBD2 cable supplying 12V and the Silicon Labs 8051 is flash programmed from my laptop. I also do a sanity check on the powered CANH and CANL to verify neither is grounded (Leaf doesn't like that!)
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Then I screw on the little nuts and bolts and add the standoffs and header for mounting the OLED board.
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And finally add the OLED, screw it in place and solder the 20 pin header on both sides. Power up and test. Ta Da! Then off to my Leaf for in-car testing, a serial number on the back, then packaging for shipping.
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Stanton said:Fellow LeafDD users: the developer (@GregH) has implemented a "fix" (v2.34) that corrects the charging/non-charging behavior "broken" by the 3G TCU/modem update. In addition, he has authorized me to offer the charging dongle/programmer and software to anyone else who wants to perform the update. Since I received the hardware from another forum member, I am willing to "pay it forward" and ship it to the next person...who can then continue the process. Eventually it needs to go back to Greg...who was kind enough to implement the fix.
If interested, please PM me with your email (software) and snail mail (hardware) addresses; since there could be multiple "takers", I will make a (single) post in this thread so everyone knows where it is.
darelldd said:If they insist on only making a handful of cars, they're going to lose money. And honestly, that's what many car makers have WANTED to demonstrate over the years. Don't make us do this! We can't afford it! Leave us alone, and in 15 years or so, we'll have an affordable Fuel Cell car that will run on rainbows and the laughter of children!
The times are changing fast now though. The options today are astonishing, and what's coming in the next few years? Awesome. It's been a long, hard haul. But here we are.
The gibberish I saw earlier has gone away and knock on wood the LeafDD has been working fine ever sinceFalconFour said:Also noticed 2 other quirks: severe burn-in, which is really noticeable when the screen goes solid-on* ... which itself is noticeable by the second quirk: the screen going all whacky when you touch the display pins on the back of the board, seems to flip different modes randomly like inverted-color, solid-on, flip, etc. I think some of those pins might be floating, missing pull-down resistors, that's what causes the craziness. And maybe even the "gibberish screen" issue mentioned by jjeff earlier.
Yes to your first question, also the HV amp draw (D) changes right away.FalconFour said:Amps and volts from EVSE are reported live? So if you use the JB's remote and use the "OutC-" button to reduce the amperage, the limit gets shown on the Page 2 numbers display right away?
I'm the JuiceBox whisperer...I helped design the newer JBs and am the last guy standing in support of the old ones, so I can almost definitely help explain why it's saying 53
Unless it's hard-wired, you don't want to exceed 40 amps anyway (on a 14-50 outlet)! The "60" was just a unit maximum rating slapped on the label, but all JBs were built-to-order with cables usually rated for 32 amps. They usually started off set at 30 amps.
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FalconFour said:With some help from Greg, I put together this explainer for the page 2 display of the LeafDD - the big jumble of numbers page.
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(if the above image dies: it's a photo of the LeafDD with elements labeled A through J roughly clockwise from the top-center "S" value as item A, moving right, down the side, across the bottom, up to "H" in the center as item H, across the 4 left temperature values, then back down ending at "C" as item J)
Static = values only update when display is switched to other screens for a few seconds. Live = values update in real-time.
- SOC% (S) (static) - This is the 4-decimal-precision raw state-of-charge value. At least in my 2014 Leaf, though, this is only updated back on the Page 1 display (big numbers).
- Gids (live) - self explanatory
The customary, proprietary unit of measurement of "how much energy is left in the battery". Good for range calculation.
- Voltage (live) - the voltage of the battery pack.
- Amperage (live) - amps going into/out of the battery.
- EVSE Amps (live?) - seems to only work on 2011-2012 Leafs - but this should show the amperage of the connected charging station.
- EVSE Volts (live?)- same as with amps, this should show voltage of the connected station.
- 12V Voltage (live) - this is the voltage of the 12V system. The 12V battery charges at 14.4v, and is "idle" at around 13v (neither consumed nor charged).
- Hx (H) (static?) - This is the infamous Hx. Not a representation of capacity, but - at least in my personal observation - seems to be more reflective of battery resistance/performance. Lower Hx = worse regen performance, higher heat production when charging/driving. Lots of discussions on this!
- Temps (static) - These are the 4 temperature sensors (3 in 2013+) of the battery, displayed in Celsius.
- Capacity (C) (static?) - This is the battery capacity in amp-hours (Ah). To calculate degradation, consider a new Leaf is around 66Ah, so divide (capacity)/66 to get a decimal percentage of new capacity (multiply by 100 to get percentage).
- (Dots in the corner) - Indication of LeafDD firmware version
Still not quite known: the hex(?) value in the lower-right corner
Hope this helps some users - and of course, also hope that the image stays up for a while!![]()
jjeff said:^^^ interesting, I haven't noticed that. How hard and for how long do you have to push on the accelerator to get that number to appear? Also how long does it display after it appears? I take it a higher internal resistance is worse than a lower one, what is a typical number and what number might mean a battery is getting weaker? My '12 is down to 9 bars and only has a capacity of 47 and Hx around 51, I'd imagine it's internal resistance would be quite a bit higher than a Leaf with a good battery.
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