Extending range of 24kWh Leaf with LeafBox

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cliff said:
Supersleeper said:
If you use the shift lever there's like a 2-3 second delay to get N.
This can be improved a little, If going fast enough, one can get immediate neutral by shifting to reverse.

Sounds scary. What speed?

I’m considering doing a bit of hacking myself, as I’ve done some hacking on my BMW in the past. Don’t know where to really start on Nissan though. I was considering doing direct-wire buttons by tapping into the shift mechanism or wiring up an arduino.
 
Supersleeper said:
this leafbox also lets you take advantage of your current momentum i.e. neutral with so much as a simple lift of the foot from the accelerator. If you use the shift lever there's like a 2-3 second delay to get N.
This is the #1 reason I bought a Leafbox and then also the #1 reason why I sold it. Firstly, the way it was described makes it seem much easier than how it actually works. From what I can tell, the "dead zone" pedal travel to allow coasting is not any bigger than stock. Once I got used to gliding I took the Leafbox out and guess what, I can still glide just as easy using 100% stock configuration just using my foot.
 
Supersleeper said:
LOL, so you are saying there's no difference between friction breaking and regenerative breaking and optimizing when the two are used?

Also, FWIW, this leafbox also lets you take advantage of your current momentum i.e. neutral with so much as a simple lift of the foot from the accelerator. If you use the shift lever there's like a 2-3 second delay to get N. Might I also remind you that carried momentum is the MOST efficient you can get. Not regenerative breaking. Therefore, the faster you can switch to neutral to carry your momentum as far as you can before needing to break and or accelerate, the more efficient you will be.

I, for one, can't wait until I have the cash to put down on one of these units. I'm constantly switching between D, ECO, and N depending on my driving conditions, and I'd much rather just use the accelerator pedal to do all that. I just don't have the cash to blow on it right now.

I am saying that this range issue with a "Leafbox" is a moot point because we are dealing with physics, and there cannot be a "magic box" that significantly increases range. Especially for the $350 price tag.

If you coast more, then you will use more kinetic energy and regenerate less. If you regen more, then the car will slow down and coast less.... Either way, the battery "range" will be the same. My old science teacher would always say... "In Physics, there is no free lunch." If anyone disagrees, then they have invented a new perpetual motion machine...
 
Disagree, there are lower losses when coasting vs regen, so coasting is more efficient - to a point. Regen becomes more efficient than coasting in neutral when the vehicle speed increases to the point where air drag + rolling resistance is greater than regen losses (primarily heat). I think, for a LEAF, that "cutover" speed is around 50-60 mph, as it's not all that aero-dynamic. Probably higher for Teslas, Hyundai IONIQs, and other EVs with a better wind coefficient.

I think I might actually consider a LeafBox, when my LEAF gets down to only 8 or 9 capacity bars and range is really limited, even if it only marginally improves efficiency. I'd also probably make an effort with aero mods too. However, I'm pretty good at switching manually between neutral, ECO regen, and B-mode regen already so I'd probably just stick with doing that.
 
I do agree with you on the price tag, that there’s not much savings over the cost of the box itself and ROI. As far as efficiency gains though, this very device helps you utilize coast mode to maximize your kinetic energy. This coasting can only be done otherwise by manually switching to neutral. As we all know, utilizing existing kinetic energy to its fullest extent is always more efficient than regen, however unrealistic for daily average driving to take full advantage of. You will also have a host of angry drivers trying to race you to the next Red light or stop sign. Because being first to the red light is always so rewarding (sarcasm). I admit, in most cases neutral coasting is typically brief, but I’ve seen gains in mileage personally while doing it manually.

I was researching a bit on some Nissan based paddle shift steering wheels. I’d love to rewire the paddle buttons to the shifter to more quickly take advantage of manual shifting of modes. It would be as simple as tapping the wires directly to the paddle buttons.
 
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