220 wiring question

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Azrich

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 22, 2010
Messages
533
Location
Tucson, AZ
I will want my charger on the other side of the wall from the electricity breaker box, but about 15 feet towards the back of the garage. When they install this, do you think they will drill a hole through the wall near the breaker box and then feed the 220 line through a conduit along the wall inside the garage to the charger location?

I don't want them to put the conduit on the outside wall. HOA rules - I got in trouble a couple years ago when I had an electrician bring another line to the kitchen with outside conduit. Heaven forbid the HOA might get upset!
 
I'm sure this is something you can work out with the electrician.

The whole thing is really between us & the installer. Infact I might get some other stuff done when he is here - and pay a little more.
 
Azrich said:
I will want my charger on the other side of the wall from the electricity breaker box, but about 15 feet towards the back of the garage. When they install this, do you think they will drill a hole through the wall near the breaker box and then feed the 220 line through a conduit along the wall inside the garage to the charger location?

I don't want them to put the conduit on the outside wall. HOA rules - I got in trouble a couple years ago when I had an electrician bring another line to the kitchen with outside conduit. Heaven forbid the HOA might get upset!

Is the service panel (breaker box) really on the outside wall of the garage? Or is that a subpanel next to the meter? (That would work too if there is space for another 2-pole breaker)

Is the exterior garage wall framed construction with drywall on the inside? (I would guess so in AZ, here in FL most exterior walls are concrete block) If the garage wall is framed they could run the wire inside the wall horizontally, although there would be some drywall repair from drilling the studs and fishing the wire.
 
Azrich said:
I will want my charger on the other side of the wall from the electricity breaker box, but about 15 feet towards the back of the garage. When they install this, do you think they will drill a hole through the wall near the breaker box and then feed the 220 line through a conduit along the wall inside the garage to the charger location?

I don't want them to put the conduit on the outside wall. HOA rules - I got in trouble a couple years ago when I had an electrician bring another line to the kitchen with outside conduit. Heaven forbid the HOA might get upset!

I have a similar question for you. Is the breaker box actually on an EXTERIOR wall? That seems very odd. Maybe you have a knife switch that is between the interior breaker box, the electric company's meter and the knife switch?

Most electricians will prefer to run that wire in a conduit in the garage, but if you have a standard 'stick built' garage with 2x4s and drywall they can run it in the wall, but it is frequently a hassle and may require some drywall work as well. It depends on whether there is access in the garage 'attic'.
 
Yes, it is odd, but that is how it was done in our townhome complex. The breaker box is right next to the meter on the exterior wall. There is a lock on it. I don't know what a knife switch is? The wall is "stick built" with stucco on the outside and drywall on the inside. We like our home and its style, but as we have done some remodeling we have found it was built very cheaply - cutting costs wherever they could.

I imagine evnow is right, the electrician Nissan sends out to do the install will work with me and my preferences.
 
Azrich,

you probably have something like this: http://electrical.hardwarestore.com/14-51-breaker-boxes/combination-service-entrance-device-631225.aspx#features
the meter and panel are combined together, in fact they have a name "CSED" for "Combination Service Entrance Device", and they come in handy on upgrades to existing services, where the interior panel is full, you can just replace the meter box with one of these and you then have some "instant" extra breaker positions availble...

P.S. my service is being upgraded to 200A, and my interior panel is full, so we are using this, to add 4 more 2 pole circuits, and this also has "feed through lugs" which will be used to connect to the existing interior panel (and it will be upgraded to 200A as well), the exterior circuits will be used to bring a new service to the garage, for the EV, and also for future PV tie in. http://www.lowes.com/pd_79498-296-RC816F200C_0_?newSearch=true&catalogId=10051&productId=1196613&Ntt=rc816f200c+&N=0&langId=-1&Ns=p_product_price%7C0&storeId=10151&Ntk=i_products&ddkey=http:SearchCatalogDisplay
 
Ok, very interesting mitch672, I had not seen that before. That would make sense and would make the lines out pretty easy as well.

Azrich, a 'knife switch' is a simple box which has a line running in one side and out the other. It has a single handle that you raise or lower to supply juice to the 'outbound' wire or shut it down. It is a handy device for a high load line and many codes require one for certain applications so you can kill the power fast.

I think, from your description, that the electrician should have no problem, with a little extra work, running it internally. It would be easier if there is an attic, because they can run the line up one stud channel and down another.
 
I feel fortunate that my 200-amp service entrance is on the exterior wall of my detached garage, and my garage has a dedicated 200-amp sub-panel, and there is no drywall covering the walls... It's just a glorious electrified shell to park my car in, with no worries about conduit or installation challenges. Also: No HOA. :cool:

I already have a 50-amp 230V receptacle where the I want the EVSE to go. Right now my air compressor plugs in there, but I think it's about time to put that thing on Craigslist.
 
garygid said:
The LEAF still has 4 tires to keep inflated. :)

Yeah, and I might still use an impact wrench to rotate tires, but it's a 60-gallon compressor with a cast iron tank. I think I can manage with something weighing less than 300 lbs! :lol: Then again, the one I have is essentially theft-proof.
 
You guys/gals are hilarious !

Most of the time it's obviously not needed. But several times in the past couple years we've had some slow leakers on our cars. Pump them back to normal in a minute or two and off to Les Schwab for a flat repair; mostly small nails and other road hazards. First time I used a bicycle pump was just such an emergency; I myself was surprised it worked. Much more convenient than exchanging the tire with the spare in the trunk (so long as it is really only a slow leaker).
 
LEAFer said:
You guys/gals are hilarious !
Pump them back to normal in a minute or two and off to Les Schwab for a flat repair; mostly small nails and other road hazards.

Go one better, next time you're at the auto parts pick up a plugging kit. As long as it's just a nail or screw squarely in the tread face area of the tire you can plug it yourself in a couple minutes and save yourself a trip to wherever. Sometimes when you pull the nail out you find it's a shorty that didn't go in far enough to cause a leak.
 
+1 for DIY tire repair. It's not very difficult. I keep one of those crappy 12V inflators on hand and it's usually enough to get me to an auto parts store so I can buy a tire plug kit.

To air up my tires, I keep a small/cheap ($30) "portable" air tank filled up to 120psi. Home depot sells them. I refill it whenever I fire up my air compressor, but without refills it holds enough air to fill up at least two tires from empty.

Link with photo: http://www.kaboodle.com/reviews/husky-11-gallon-carry-tank-1

Sorry to derail this thread... :twisted:
 
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