$700+ OUCH - Parking brake actuator

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Hi guys I have the some problem, parking break error.
From leafspy i read error C10E0 9290 and C10E0 7709.
The cost for repair is 3500€ (Italy) from Nissan center.
Now i would check attuator and try to repair by a mechanic friend.
Can i test motor with 12v on bench ???

File_000_45.jpg
 
I have had the same problem with my 2012 Leaf this past summer.
Back in July 2018 my parking brake failed but luckily it was in the disengaged mode. I continued driving until I could gather up service information and diagnostic tool (leafspypro).
I'm a pretty handy guy,.. but was intimidated by 95 pages of parking brake trouble shooting and repair information in the service manual and it seems you have to have another dealer computer program called "consult" dig into other module testing.
So I finally got down to doing something about it this week. Took the dust and spray cover of the bottom of the car and checked the Actuator connector. It was full of water! (its been a dry summer and I'm sure I have never driven the car through any deep water). After a number of times banging out water and using a hair drier and contact cleaner I could still not get any action on the Actuator.
The next day I put 12v directly on the power supply pins and got no effect, so I took the Actuator out and opened it up, there was about 4 spoonfuls of water in the gearcase and motor and the motor seized. Luckily the motor wasn't frozen too bad and was able to get everything dried out and freed up. Tested it on the bench and seemed to work. Installed it back in the car. Used the "Leafspy" to clear out the DTC codes and the the parking brake seems to operate normally again. Big smile on my face, I was not looking forward to a heafty dealer repair bill like the forums were indicating. Actual repair cost to me $0 other than buying the diagnostic program and wi-fi connector.

It would appear to me that the two weak links in this system are a poor quality waterproof connector to the Actuator and the brake release cable that comes down from the trunk compartment, it had water in it somehow too! Will watch for recurrence but hopefully I have sealed things up well enough or maybe someone else in the family did submerge it and can't remember.

If your parking brake acts up, look for water in these areas. Could save you a big repair bill.
 
bowthom said:
Hello,
So the final answer is "YES" LeafSpy Pro can clear codes and was even able to initiate the park brake controller self diagnostic (find zero point). And thus, my leaf is back to normal all systems are GO.

I'm a happy guy. Many thanks to camasleaf for hooking up his LeafSpy rig and curing my ails.

Don

You guys putting all that work into a very useful system deserve the praise of all us DIY leafers who will eventually need it. Many thanks to you also.
I would suggest getting your own LeafSpy setup, the device is very inexpensive and saves a ton of hassles. Every once in a while you get a charger that trips a fault error that prevents charging until it clears, which takes a couple of days on its own, but with leafSpy I can clear the code and keep going.
 
bowthom said:
Hello,
So why again does Leaf Spy not give the choice of WiFi or Bluetooth?
I have an ELM327 WiFi that I use with my iPhone to diagnose my GMC and Prius but leaf spy only has a bluetooth option.

My only option here is to buy another ELM327 device? What the heck, now I have the Kyocera Event but still can't use it.

Frustrated……………….

Don T
M<y understanding is because the WiFi doesn't always work reliably with the Leaf.
 
Does anyone in Utah - Ogden, Brigham, Cache Valley area have leaf spy pro I need to reset my park brake controller? I have removed the cable winding motor 2 times now with water inside. The first time, a year ago, it reset itself. This time it did not.
 
Capttdb1 said:
I have had the same problem with my 2012 Leaf this past summer.
Back in July 2018 my parking brake failed but luckily it was in the disengaged mode. I continued driving until I could gather up service information and diagnostic tool (leafspypro).
I'm a pretty handy guy,.. but was intimidated by 95 pages of parking brake trouble shooting and repair information in the service manual and it seems you have to have another dealer computer program called "consult" dig into other module testing.
So I finally got down to doing something about it this week. Took the dust and spray cover of the bottom of the car and checked the Actuator connector. It was full of water! (its been a dry summer and I'm sure I have never driven the car through any deep water). After a number of times banging out water and using a hair drier and contact cleaner I could still not get any action on the Actuator.
The next day I put 12v directly on the power supply pins and got no effect, so I took the Actuator out and opened it up, there was about 4 spoonfuls of water in the gearcase and motor and the motor seized. Luckily the motor wasn't frozen too bad and was able to get everything dried out and freed up. Tested it on the bench and seemed to work. Installed it back in the car. Used the "Leafspy" to clear out the DTC codes and the the parking brake seems to operate normally again. Big smile on my face, I was not looking forward to a heafty dealer repair bill like the forums were indicating. Actual repair cost to me $0 other than buying the diagnostic program and wi-fi connector.

It would appear to me that the two weak links in this system are a poor quality waterproof connector to the Actuator and the brake release cable that comes down from the trunk compartment, it had water in it somehow too! Will watch for recurrence but hopefully I have sealed things up well enough or maybe someone else in the family did submerge it and can't remember.

If your parking brake acts up, look for water in these areas. Could save you a big repair bill.

I pray to God I don't have this type of incident with my new '19.. EVER.. as I have ZERO mechanical skills or know-how. I would be at the mercy of the NIssan Dealership.. GOD HELP!!!

So envious of your skills Capt!
 
My 2011 Leaf just threw this error as well after I replaced the 12 volt battery. Thanks so much for the information posted here!
Was able to reset the code with LeafSpy and seems to be working fine now. But I think I should probably have a look to see if there is any corrosion in the cables.
 
bowthom said:
Hello,
So the final answer is "YES" LeafSpy Pro can clear codes and was even able to initiate the park brake controller self diagnostic (find zero point). And thus, my leaf is back to normal all systems are GO.

Hi everyone, first post! Don, how were you able to get Leaf Spy to reset your parking brake zero point? I'm looking for that capability but can't find it. Thanks!
 
Hi,

Sorry to revive this old thread, but thought it's the best place. I'm having a similar problem with my parking brake, I'm just not as technically inclined as you guys.

I've put the car to a workshop but they can't seem find figure out what is wrong and say I need to buy a new parking brake actuator, even though the actuator actually seems to partly work (it can pull the wires, but won't release and won't do zero point calibration).

I had them look at the same issue a few months back, and at that point they were convinced that the problem was with worn out or twisted braking shoes.

So to save myself thousands of dollars of them guessing and replacing parts until it's all working, is there anything I can try? When you guys say you've tested the actuator "on the bench" - what does that mean ? How can you test it without the controller?

Any help is very welcomed.
 
Almost 4 years since my last post and this #$%@& parking brake has failed again.

I was resigned to having to spend $ 1200US for the new part so I tore into the old one with nothing to loose.

Cause of failure was corrosion again. Though no free water found in it like last time, the main gear was frozen to the main threaded shaft that pulls the cables. This gear has to turn 1/8 turn on the shaft to make the clutch/brake mechanism work. It was a bitch to disassemble but was able to to do it without breaking anything. Only part that had to be replaced was a small thrust roller bearing that cost $4, the shipping and handling cost $8. The rest I was able to clean up and put back together.
I'm confident now that it was completely torn down, and lubed throughout, that maybe I will still get another 5-10 years out of it.

This is the worst example of automotive design I have ever encountered. An emergency brake that is designed not to work in an emergency!!
How did the MOT ever allow this on the road??

Trev Berry
 
Capttdb1 said:
...
This is the worst example of automotive design I have ever encountered. An emergency brake that is designed not to work in an emergency!!
How did the MOT ever allow this on the road??

Trev Berry

I believe the term "emergency brake" is a misnomer, probably a carryover from the days when the hydraulic braking systems had a single circuit. Cars have had dual-circuit brakes for many decades. Nowadays it is just a "parking brake". It is designed to that task alone.
 
SO, to sum up, is there any kind of preventative maintenance that can be done to these assemblies before they die? Mine works for the time being, and i'd like to keep it that way before things seize up...
 
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