EVSE options for 2013+ Leafs

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Yes It's probably the same as my Zencar but maxes out at 16a instead of 30a.
I guess if your ok with 16a, for example if you only have a Leaf with the 3.8kw charger, saving the money might be nice. I personally like the ability to charge up to 27.5a on my Leaf and would be willing to pay the extra $100 or so it would cost. Actually I custom ordered mine directly from China and was able to get a longer cord and the input plug I wanted, all for cheaper than what Amazon wanted, but not everyone is probably comfortable ordering directly from China :)
 
jjeff said:
I'm not aware of any EVSEs that are as sophisticated as the Juicebox Pro, the Zencar EVSE gives you a instantaneous and total Kwh reading, but unfortunately clear once unplugged.
I believe I read Juicebox is working on a way to directly connect to the EVSE with WiFi but as of now it's internet only and somehow through their servers. When someone asked what happened if their servers went down, their response was they had a very redundant system, of course no internet connection, no way to change the output current as of now. Again you can use the EVSE, you just can't change the output current from it's last setting.

I think you'll be OK with 6a, EVSEupgrade goes down to a 6a setting and I've never heard of anyone having a problem with it. I believe 6a is the lowest current allowed with the J1772 standard EVSEs use.


If you are of the smartphone generation then the JuiceBox is the way to go. Personaly I do not want to use a smart app on my phone to control my EVSE.

I build OpenEVSE units with a fifteen dollar multi function meter that stores stores KWH until reset; That works for me. I just want to walk over to the unit to read it. It really depends on your generation. I just want an EVSE that is safe and works for me. Most Chinese EVSE's fail the GFCI test since that requires a lot of skill to get it to work without falsing. Most Americal EVSE's like Clipper Creek, JuiceBox and OpenEVSE pass the required GFCI test. As far as I know it is just the Chinese units.
 
GlennD said:
The EVSE cost really depends on your cost. I find that I can build the whole thing for $350. I I purchased resistors at Orvac the cost would be much higher China parts are cheap but 6 week si a killer. you really have to stock the parts

With Chinese parts the semiconductors cost $10 or less. The discrete parts cost around $10 or less. The +- 12V module is $10 or less. The case is around $20 the multi function meter is $15 and the PCB and display is $15 or less. Cables are the most expensive item with a 40A J1772 cable and input cable at around $200 or less. Add $20 for misc costs. It really costs little especially considering I paid nearly $360 just for the Ji772 Cable. Prices have really gone down. Chris is handicapped by the fact that his supplier uses Digikey exclusively. I scrounge parts from eBay. Yes I am cheap. Since I do it as a hobby I do not consider labor costs.
 
Anyone have any experience with either one of these?

https://www.amazon.com/Morec-J1772-Extension-Charging-Stations/dp/B07DHFH8LW/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1542821346&sr=8-5&keywords=j1772%2Bextension&th=1

https://www.evseadapters.com/collections/ev-chargers-and-evses/products/16-30a-adjustable-120-240v-charger-evse

So many choices out there, I'm trying to figure out which portable one I should get
 
valem said:
Anyone have any experience with either one of these?

https://www.amazon.com/Morec-J1772-Extension-Charging-Stations/dp/B07DHFH8LW/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1542821346&sr=8-5&keywords=j1772%2Bextension&th=1

https://www.evseadapters.com/collections/ev-chargers-and-evses/products/16-30a-adjustable-120-240v-charger-evse

So many choices out there, I'm trying to figure out which portable one I should get
Your second link just goes to a selection page, not a specific EVSE.
AFA which portable to get, I personally would want one with the ability to limit output current. I guess if your always going to plug into a 14-50 outlet it wouldn't be so important but if your like me and have several outlet adapters to allow you to plug into a variety of outlets you may run into, in the wild, you really need to be able to limit the current to no more than 80% of the amperage of the outlet your plugging into. That would mean 16a for a 20a outlet and 24a for a 30a outlet, a very common amperage outlet. If you can't limit your charge current, and you have a Leaf that can pull up to 27.5a(also called a 6.6kw charger) you can really only use a 14-50 outlet or similar outlet with a minimum of 40a.
I really like my Zencar EVSE, purchased directly from China for ~$400 with a nice long(8m) flexible cord. I specified 12a, 16a, 19a, 24a and 30a(max) settings. Note I really only use the 19a setting(all settings good on both 120v and 240v) for known quality outlets fed by a minimum 12g wiring and even then for not much more than 1hr, basically for emergency charging when I need the maximum charge rate and need to get going as fast as I can.
Another good EVSE is something like an adjustable Juicebox where you can specify the maximum charge current down to the amp, I believe something like an OpenEVSE allows you to specify even charge amperage, unless they've changed something.
If you only have a 16a max Leaf or only plan on plugging into a 14-50 outlet then adjustable might not be that important.
 
Thanks for your reply. I don't know why it cut off the link, this may work https://tinyurl.com/y8lkcxuw

I agree on the adjustable, I do have an SL with the 6.6kW charger, so without an adjustable I could be in trouble of not able to charge by tripping breakers "out in the wild" .

I had my eyes on the zencar, but it does not seem available. There's one used option on Amazon, and on zencar website there's only "Inquiry" button, no buy option... https://www.zencar.net/product/32a-evse-portable-adjustable-sae-j1772/

Where did you buy yours?

I looked into openEVSE too, but that's getting a bit costly, I was trying to stay under $400 for a portable option.
 
valem said:
Thanks for your reply. I don't know why it cut off the link, this may work https://tinyurl.com/y8lkcxuw

I agree on the adjustable, I do have an SL with the 6.6kW charger, so without an adjustable I could be in trouble of not able to charge by tripping breakers "out in the wild" .

I had my eyes on the zencar, but it does not seem available. There's one used option on Amazon, and on zencar website there's only "Inquiry" button, no buy option... https://www.zencar.net/product/32a-evse-portable-adjustable-sae-j1772/

Where did you buy yours?

I looked into openEVSE too, but that's getting a bit costly, I was trying to stay under $400 for a portable option.
I purchased mine directly off the Zencar website, I emailed "Dream" and told her the options I wanted(cord length, plug, amperage settings) and she came back with a price. I paid with Paypal and it took a couple weeks to get here from China, Alozzy from Canada also ordered one and I believe was quite happy. Note when inquiring with Zencar they aren't really a retailer, more the mfg. and there is a bit of a language barrier so don't expect a polished retail environment. I mainly did it because I wanted specific things such as a 19a setting and the L6-30 plug and a longer than normal flexible in cold weather cord. If your OK with how your first tinyurl link is setup(which does now work :) ) it seems to be very similar to my Zencar and the price is good. Again what I really wanted was a 120v/240v portable EVSE and ability to adjust not only the 240v(also works on 208v, I've used mine down to 198v) charging current but also 120v. Some portables allow you to adjust 240v but only set 120v to 12a which really leaves a lot on the table if you have access to a good 20a outlet or even the rare 30a 120v outlet.
Note purchasing the various outlet adapters can add up, which is why I made mine and price and less bulk was the reason I wanted the L6-30 plug on my EVSE. Finding the female variety of L6-30 is easy and cheap(they start ~$6) while female 14-50 plugs are closer to $20 each and very bulky. To make an outlet adapter you need the female variety of the type of plug on your EVSE and then the male variety of the outlet you want to plug into and finally some good minimum 10 gauge 3 wire cord. Most of my outlet adapters cost <$20 each to make, purchasing them can often times cost >$50 but they are a bit of a hassle to make, well just takes time.
<$400 was also what I was looking for which is one of the reasons I passed on the OpenEVSE, that and most OpenEVSEs aren't the top in, bottom out, style I wanted. Most OpenEVSEs seem to be more a side in, side out style. Juice box is a very quality EVSE but as you noted, more North of $500 and the new ones require a phone app and internet to be able to adjust the output amperage, something I wasn't sure I'd have access to in the wild.

Edit: I did see one reviewer state the cord(on your linked EVSE) would get quite stiff in the cold, that wouldn't work for me in MN and I didn't see any mention of cord length. I've used every foot of my 8M cord and was happy mine was that long. I could forward me the emails I got from Dream at Zencar if you wanted, I believe I still have them, just PM me your email address if interested.
 
I'm definitely interested to see which options you asked for with your Zencar. I didn't know it would have been an option to get it custom made.
I've only had the car for 2 months, so I'm still trying to figure out the best (and most versatile) gear I should have in the trunk!
Sent you a PM, thanks!

EDIT: did you get my PM? ... I keep trying but it's staying in "Outbox" and not showing up in "Sent"
 
valem said:
I'm definitely interested to see which options you asked for with your Zencar. I didn't know it would have been an option to get it custom made.
I've only had the car for 2 months, so I'm still trying to figure out the best (and most versatile) gear I should have in the trunk!
Sent you a PM, thanks!

EDIT: did you get my PM? ... I keep trying but it's staying in "Outbox" and not showing up in "Sent"
Yes I see it, it won't show sent until I open it, I believe.
 
Got it, thank you! I already contacted them.
I like your idea of getting it with a less bulky plug since there's no need for a 50A plug to charge the Leaf with L2
And if I run into someone with a Tesla that needs to charge ... they'll just have to deal with the 30A limit ;)
 
valem said:
Got it, thank you! I already contacted them.
I like your idea of getting it with a less bulky plug since there's no need for a 50A plug to charge the Leaf with L2
And if I run into someone with a Tesla that needs to charge ... they'll just have to deal with the 30A limit ;)
My first EV outlet was the RV 14-50 Tesla standard type, it was to match my first L2 EVSE, a Juicebox Premium. After that I had my OEM Leaf EVSE upgraded to a 20a max L2 by EVSEupgrade. It was that EVSE that used the L6-30 standard and how I got to like the L6-30 plugs. My next 2 outlets were using the L standard. Instead of the L6-30 I put in L14-30 outlets which besides 240v also has a neutral so you can get 120v out of them, for running various 120v devices. I then made several L14-30 to L6-30 outlet adapters as well as L14-30 to 14-50(the RV or Tesla standard) to run my Juicebox. Of course I also had to make a 14-50 to L6-30 outlet adapter to use my EVSEupgrade'd EVSE as well as a couple other <30a portable EVSEs I've purchased, including my Zencar.
Again I could have just used L6-30 for my outlets to best match my EVSEs but I just wanted to have the option of having a high current 120v source. Adapter Y cables, oftentimes used for generators to convert from a L14-30 outlet to 2 120v females are easily and cheaply found.
Oh I can also use my L14-30 to L6-30 adapter cable to run my EVSE off many 240v portable generators which is a very common outlet for such generators. Very large generators will have a 14-50 outlet but less expensive ~5000W models will have the L14-30 standard.
 
In case it's of interest, I ordered my Zencar EVSE with a NEMA 14-50 plug, then I removed the unused neutral blade from the plug. I did that because I installed a NEMA 14-30 receptacle in my garage and ordered the Zencar with a 24A amperage setting (along with several others - see my signature), which gives me a 5.8 kW charging rate on a budget. A 14-30 receptacle is a standard outlet for electric dryers, it's much cheaper to install than a 50 amp circuit.

I can still use the Zencar on NEMA 14-50 receptacles, common at RV sites, and I also made an adapter cable (thanks to jjeff for helping with that) that lets me use the Zencar with TT30 and standard 120v outlets too. Really handy when we go camping...

I use the Zencar almost every night, I haven't had a single issue with it after almost 3 years of use.
 
jjeff said:
Your second link just goes to a selection page, not a specific EVSE.
That's the forum software breaking the link. It always does that with that site. You can get the intended URL by quoting the post (and then copy-and-pasting).
 
wmcbrine said:
jjeff said:
Your second link just goes to a selection page, not a specific EVSE.
That's the forum software breaking the link. It always does that with that site. You can get the intended URL by quoting the post (and then copy-and-pasting).
Thanks for the tip, worked like a charm :)
Not sure if it's similar but occasionally on my work iPhone I get sent an email(mostly happens on longer emails with lots of recipients) if I open it right away after getting the notification, I get the first several pages of who the email was also sent to, but not the actual email :x If I get out of the email and then later come back to it, often times I see the actual message, but I've discovered if just pretend to forward the message and then answer yes to include the original message, I can see then actual original message right away. When done reading the message I just cancel the forward.
 
I have a question ...

In this ESVE adapter, is the Ground on the 14-50r wired to the Neutral (W) on the 10-30p ?

https://imgur.com/a/Ip0YlhC

Thanks!
 
valem said:
I have a question ...

In this ESVE adapter, is the Ground on the 14-50r wired to the Neutral (W) on the 10-30p ?

https://imgur.com/a/Ip0YlhC

Thanks!
Without a description saying it was or without using an ohm meter I couldn't say for positive, but yes that would make the most sense. The single neutral/ground prong on the 10-30p would be tied to both the neutral and ground of the 14-50r, thats what I did when I made such an adapter for my EVSE :)
 
jjeff said:
Without a description saying it was or without using an ohm meter I couldn't say for positive, but yes that would make the most sense. The single neutral/ground prong on the 10-30p would be tied to both the neutral and ground of the 14-50r, thats what I did when I made such an adapter for my EVSE :)

That was actually my question ;) I finally received my Zencar :D (got it with the 14-50p) and I'm making a lot of adapters. Since ESVEs don't use neutral I figured that neutral on a 3 prong would be connected to ground on a 4 prong; but since you already made it and connected to both I'll do the same.

Perfect! Thank you!
 
valem said:
jjeff said:
Without a description saying it was or without using an ohm meter I couldn't say for positive, but yes that would make the most sense. The single neutral/ground prong on the 10-30p would be tied to both the neutral and ground of the 14-50r, thats what I did when I made such an adapter for my EVSE :)

That was actually my question ;) I finally received my Zencar :D (got it with the 14-50p) and I'm making a lot of adapters. Since ESVEs don't use neutral I figured that neutral on a 3 prong would be connected to ground on a 4 prong; but since you already made it and connected to both I'll do the same.

Perfect! Thank you!
The problem with the 10-30 standard(and the reason it's considered obsolete and AFAIK not code for new installations) is it lacks a dedicated ground. In the case of our EVSEs they don't need a neutral but do need a ground. For EVSE use only you could just hook the neutral 10-30p to the 14-50r's ground and leave the 14-50r's neutral unconnected but personally, I figured if I'd ever want to use the adapter for say an RV, doing that wouldn't allow the RV to work and could even be dangerous as things in the RV would have a hot but no neutral or rather all the neutrals would be tied together possibly causing a series condition which would not be good at all. I'm not suggesting you use your adapter for RV use but if it ever fell into the wrong hands I'd rather have a neutral than not :)
 
jjeff said:
The problem with the 10-30 standard(and the reason it's considered obsolete and AFAIK not code for new installations) is it lacks a dedicated ground. In the case of our EVSEs they don't need a neutral but do need a ground. For EVSE use only you could just hook the neutral 10-30p to the 14-50r's ground and leave the 14-50r's neutral unconnected but personally, I figured if I'd ever want to use the adapter for say an RV, doing that wouldn't allow the RV to work and could even be dangerous as things in the RV would have a hot but no neutral or rather all the neutrals would be tied together possibly causing a series condition which would not be good at all. I'm not suggesting you use your adapter for RV use but if it ever fell into the wrong hands I'd rather have a neutral than not :)

Good point. But I'm just planning on adapters for various possible situations and just in case situations. The 10-30 may never get used, but I'd rather have the option than not. I'm actually not making them... to save space I have one 14-50r and I bought all kinds of possible plugs. Since none are for daily use I have a box with all the plugs, the 14-50r and some 10/3 cable with ground.

I always carry basic tools and a Fluke with me, so if/when I go on a road-trip and I'm somewhere that I need to plug in, I can make an adapter in a few minutes, but I wanted to make sure about wiring a plug with no ground to an ESVE with no neutral.

I figured to tie them together, but I have no way to test it... and the day I would need it, would not be a good time to figure it out.

So no worries about it ending in the wrong hands, or using it for an RV; I will only make it if I need it!
 
We had an old NEMA 10-30 but trashed it per our electrician. It has no ground wire so if there is electrical leakage and the charger doesn't detect it, your car or the nearest conductive material becomes an electrical chair.

We got a level 1 adjustable charger for on the go, at friends etc. You can dial it down or up, which is also nice if the breaker starts to trip since it means the plug is not on a dedicated circuit so you need to pull less juice (much better than the fixed 16 amp ones). We got a level 2 40 14-50 for at home for our Nissan Leaf+/ I spoke with Victoria at ev-chargers.com in California that have lots of options. Working well so far and they specifically stopped selling 10-30 and 10-50s.
 
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