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I'm getting the see your owners manual error

The only error code is U1000 8808 Parking brake can com circuit.
 
The headunit in my SL has been locking up playing MP3s. Occasionally it will change screens but perform no function at all, nor will it switch source to AM/FM. Even removing the usb stick and reinserting it will not help. Restarting the car will sometimes temporarily fix the problem.

Also goes into Nissan tomorrow to have the radar replaced, apparently my car was built with a newer revision of the radar unit but I'm getting the odd case of the collision avoidance getting turned off. This seems to only occur after work, where the car has sat charging on 120v for 13hours, if it's <5C. Work is only a few meters above sealevel. It doesn't seem to happen from home in similar conditions, we're about 20-30m above sealevel. I had the cruise control and collision avoidance both completely shut down in a massive down pour.
 
Hello, first time poster here,

I've looked through this thread and haven't seen anybody mention an issue similar to what I've encountered with my new 2018 Leaf

Leaf SV 2018 built 06/18
Model: FSDAL

I have had this car 5 months, only 5000 km so far. The problem is power failure on start up. This is a sub-second loss of power as I start up, with a momentary recovery, followed by another loss of power, all repeated sometimes 5 or 6 times. It is a very intermittent problem that started about 2 months after I got the car and occurs only once per 1 or 2 weeks, although once it starts it my happen several times that trip. No warning lights before, during or after. No OBD / Leafspy DTCs abnormality are spotted using LeafSpy.

This has happened mostly (but not invariably ) been encountered when I am starting a left turn, at an advanced green.

This ends up with a ’stuttering’ that ends up with a very slow progression through the intersection and a resulting chorus of impatient beeping of drivers behind me. :shock:

I thought maybe the radar is confused by the opposing traffic that I appear to be driving into. But it happens occasionally also at intersections when I'm starting straight and with no opposing traffic.

I drive predominantly with ePedal D-mode but this also has occurred with ePedal off and in B mode.

Once the problem shows during any trip, it can appear when I’m running at normal speed and start accelerating and a single truly momentary power loss blip may happen.

The dealer has detected nothing on their scan and in test drive, and so have no solution for me. Their suggestion- ‘avoid ePedal for a while and see if it recurs’. Well... . It continues to this day. Ideas as to what to do?
 
maple18 said:
Hello, first time poster here,

I've looked through this thread and haven't seen anybody mention an issue similar to what I've encountered with my new 2018 Leaf

Leaf SV 2018 built 06/18
Model: FSDAL

I have had this car 5 months, only 5000 km so far. The problem is power failure on start up. This is a sub-second loss of power as I start up, with a momentary recovery, followed by another loss of power, all repeated sometimes 5 or 6 times.
It sounds like a loose connection in High Voltage (HV) circuit. It could be anywhere, I would make dealer aware, who knows may be Nissan would want to investigate it deeper and either arrange loaner or just swap the car. I would not drive it this way, just for my own life sake. If dealer is not dumb he would inform headquarter about it immediately.
 
I thought maybe the radar is confused by the opposing traffic that I appear to be driving into. But it happens occasionally also at intersections when I'm starting straight and with no opposing traffic.

Do you have the Tech Package? If so is it on or off when the above happens? Cruise on or off? The adaptive cruise control is a PITA in city driving.
 
Thank you Leaf15 and LeftieBiker for your response.
I do have the package with Propilot / cruise, but I rarely use it and it is off.
Yesterday I had a near stall in the middle of a left turn unto a freeway, followed by a normal 15km drive home. Took Leaf15's advice and took it back to the dealer. Their Leaf man went with me on a test drive and fortunately, 1st left turn the condition was replicated. No warning light on the dash throughout. Driving one of their new Roques now until we have and answer.

Will keep you informed on the findings / results
 
Follow up on my Leaf stuttering on start up, mainly on left turns....

3 weeks with the dealer. Except for one episode when I brought the car in and the service technician was passenger, they have not been able to replicate this behaviour. They've driven it 600 km, no problems, no error codes. Thus no solutions. They imply that having an OBD dongle inserted may cause aberrant behaviour, but of course the dongle went in after I started having problems.
There is nothing on the dash board to indicate anything so the best I can think of is to install a dash cam in order to catch this behaviour / road conditions , to document when it occurs.
 
I just purchased a 2018 LEAF SV manufactured 3/2018 USA. I am having a problem charging it with my 240v SPX (now owned by Bosch) EVSE. The EVSE is detecting ground fault leakage current exceeding 17.5 mA. Charging starts, but stops after a few minutes due to detecting the leakage current. I used this EVSE without issue for 7 years with my 2012 LEAF that I traded in for this 2018 LEAF. I also currently use this EVSE with my Tesla Model 3 without any issue. My 2018 LEAF charges fine with the Nissan provided 120v EVSE, but I am not sure that means much. Any suggestions on how to get the dealer to fix my 2018 LEAF?

Steve
 
Had issues with a short in the power mirrors adjustment that took way too many trips to the dealership, too much time and a scuffed side mirror that the dealer still have yet to fix.

The hood seems to be not aligned which makes the cap uneven but was able to bent it a bit, which helped but it seems to be going back to the original position.

Another weird thing is a rubbing sound that I hear when trying to feather the pedal at very low speeds or between 40-50 miles going on flat or downhill.

Any idea what that might be?
[youtube]https://youtu.be/aRu00S7aCM4[/youtube]

P.S. Don't what to go back to the dealer and drive a sentra for a loaner- although leaf seems to be sharing 50% internal panels with the sentra and the ride seems to be as comfortable.
 
2018 SV with 8k miles, built in March, bought in June
Got "Service EV system unable to restart" message on power up in the morning.
Did the usual checks of 12V battery and all that but got nowhere.
Leaf Spy pulled two DTCs:

P31E7 000B Restart inhibition EVC-310
P0AA6 1A08 Hybrid battery sys isolation fault EVC-157

Had it towed in, dealer just called to tell me it's a bad cell in the pack and it'll be at least a week of fixing.
Driving gas loaner (Rogue) meanwhile- feels like a punishment :(
 
I think that the Sentra is the "punishment loaner."

Looks like we have our second major defect showing up, after the failing Pro Pilot radar units...speaking of which, mine still acts up occasionally, but not as often as it was. I'm trying to decide if I want to report it to the dealer when the car is in for what I hope will be its annual-only dealership visit, thus opening a possible can of worms, or if I should see if it gets worse or better...
 
Starting after my 2nd month of ownership in near freezing weather, my 2018 Sep (bought in Dec) vehicle made a single "click" sound every time I depress the brake pedal (click happens on the initial push, nowhere else during its travel). Warmer weather did not stop the click. It doesn't seem to affect the operation of the pedal, but the sound gets annoying especially how quiet it is inside. I'll get it examine during a visit to the dealer in a couple months. No other issues observed.
 
Thx for the suggestion...I should have clarified. The clicking sound is definitely emanating from the brake pedal itself. Highly unlikely it's the lug nuts as I hear the distinct click from the pedal even in park mode and can replicate the sound every time I tap on the pedal.
 
jdcbomb said:
Thx for the suggestion...I should have clarified. The clicking sound is definitely emanating from the brake pedal itself. Highly unlikely it's the lug nuts as I hear the distinct click from the pedal even in park mode and can replicate the sound every time I tap on the pedal.
That is exactly what my Honda CRV was doing when wheels were not torqued correctly. It’s a common problem with aluminum wheels bolted to a steel hub. The dissimilar metals expand & contract at different rates, which can loosen the lug nuts.
 
Compared to my 2013 MY vehicle, the Bluetooth audio on the 2018 MY has a delay that is nearing half a second. Not totally annoying but wondering if anyone else has noticed this and is it fixable? It's especially noticeable in videos with the subject speaking. Doesn't matter what smartphone device is connected.
 
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