Speedometer calibration ?

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TonyWilliams said:
Have you tried the calibration settings in the service menu?

(Audio Power off, Map, Map, Map, Audio Power, Audio Power, Map)

...

The adjustment in the service pages, "Navigation", "Speed Calibration", is only +/- 2.5%.

Thank you very much!

I was about to buy tires and knowing I can adjust this by 2.5% is very nice.

I did fail to get in on the first couple of tries. You have to hit the sequence at a relatively fast speed. I was doing it more slow and deliberate the first two tries. Do it faster and it works on the first try every time.
 
How can you adjust it with an S model? Any other way besides taking it into Nissan to have them change it?

Mine isn't off really bad but it's annoying. 1mph off @ 30mph, 2mph off @ 50mph, 3mph off @ 65mph, 4mph off @ 75mph.
 
dhanson865 said:
Thank you very much!

I was about to buy tires and knowing I can adjust this by 2.5% is very nice.

I did fail to get in on the first couple of tries. You have to hit the sequence at a relatively fast speed. I was doing it more slow and deliberate the first two tries. Do it faster and it works on the first try every time.
I found that it was more practical to adjust it by 2%. When I tried 2.5% my speedometer would bounce up and down 1 mph when cruise control was set. I found that annoying so I backed it off to 2% and the problem went away. FWIW.
 
dgpcolorado said:
dhanson865 said:
Thank you very much!

I was about to buy tires and knowing I can adjust this by 2.5% is very nice.

I did fail to get in on the first couple of tries. You have to hit the sequence at a relatively fast speed. I was doing it more slow and deliberate the first two tries. Do it faster and it works on the first try every time.
I found that it was more practical to adjust it by 2%. When I tried 2.5% my speedometer would bounce up and down 1 mph when cruise control was set. I found that annoying so I backed it off to 2% and the problem went away. FWIW.

Do you know the RPM of the tires you were using when that happened?

Check the specs tab on tirerack.com for the tire in question.

I got a used leaf with Goodyear Eagle RS-A tires and they have good traction in dry summer conditions but suck for rolling resistance, wet traction, snow traction, basically anything other than dry pavement.

Eagle RS-A 205/55/16 is 23 pounds and 840 rpm

stock tires according to tirerack for my 2012 SL are Bridgestone Ecopia EP422 205/55/16 at 20 pounds and 837 rpm

I'm planning on trying to find some more Energy Saver A/S and if I can I'll do a -1 conversion with some new rims and go to

Energy Saver A/S 195/65/15 at 18 pounds and 832 rpm.

I'm not sure the exact adjustment I'll need to get the speedometer accurate but I'm assuming it will be greater than 2.5% with in tire in the 830-840rpm range. I'll be testing that with my 840 rpm tires in the next day or two.
 
dhanson865 said:
Do you know the RPM of the tires you were using when that happened?...
No, and my sense was that it doesn't matter. What I found was that the set point of the cruise control changed when using that speedometer adjustment and 0.5% changes caused the cruise set point, as measured by the speedometer, to appear unstable, which I found annoying. So I dropped the adjustment to the next whole number, 2%, and the problem went away. It had nothing to do with tires or wheel rpm, it is an artifact of the electronic control of cruise setting. That's all I'm saying. I mention it in case someone else notices it and wonders why the cruise seems unstable.

After making the adjustment I find that 61 mph indicated is about 59.5-60 mph actual, as measured by a radar detector here — located on a curve so that it is pointing almost directly down the highway, by the way — using nearly new Ecopia tires. I think that's as close as I'm going to get to an accurate speedometer reading without some sort of dealer adjustment. And it is good enough for me.
 
I went out and tried using GPS speedometer to compare but no matter if I set it +2.5% or -2.5% my dash showed a couple miles an hour fast.

I wonder if you have to come to a stop and/or power cycle the entire car while in park to get the change to take effect?

That would require a lot more trips from 0 to 60 and back to 0 to change the setting and try again. But as cumbersome as that is, that is what I plan to do next.
 
It won't work if the car is going faster than 5MPH... You need to calculate the offset needed (in my case it was 2.4% fast) and then enter it when stopped.

dhanson865 said:
I wonder if you have to come to a stop and/or power cycle the entire car while in park to get the change to take effect?
 
I have a 2015 SV that came with 17" wheels. I recently switched them out for 16" winter wheels/tires, and tried to recalibrate. I tried +2.4%, +2%, -2%, -2.4% and the setting seems to have no effect on the dash speed. (I power-cycled the vehicle before driving after each setting change.)

Has anyone had success changing the calibration on a recent vehicle? If so, what steps did you take?

Thanks,

Jeff
 
JeffInCO said:
I have a 2015 SV that came with 17" wheels. I recently switched them out for 16" winter wheels/tires, and tried to recalibrate. I tried +2.4%, +2%, -2%, -2.4% and the setting seems to have no effect on the dash speed. (I power-cycled the vehicle before driving after each setting change.)

Has anyone had success changing the calibration on a recent vehicle? If so, what steps did you take?

Thanks,

Jeff

Consider 2.4% at 51 miles an hour would still be 50 miles an hour (only 1 mph indicated difference). At 80 mph a 2.4% difference indicates 2 mph difference.

It is very hard to tell the difference without a perfectly flat straight road, high speed, and a very responsive accurate GPS speedometer.

I found my GPS speedometer app was always a second or so behind and I couldn't keep a steady speed (no such thing as a flat highway around here).

Maybe a dyno would make it easier to test? Or maybe just take it on faith and leave it at -2.x%?
 
When my speedo reads 63 mph I am going 60mph. If I'm reading these posts correctly, I have to change it to -2.5%?
 
rogersleaf said:
Thekuai said:
When my speedo reads 63 mph I am going 60mph. If I'm reading these posts correctly, I have to change it to -2.5%?
No, will be off by 5%.

I meant on the special calibration page where the max adjustment is + or - 2.5%
 
Thekuai said:
rogersleaf said:
Thekuai said:
When my speedo reads 63 mph I am going 60mph. If I'm reading these posts correctly, I have to change it to -2.5%?
No, will be off by 5%.

I meant on the special calibration page where the max adjustment is + or - 2.5%
My experience with that adjustment screen is it did absolutely nothing. Speedo & odometer we’re off the same 5% after changing the settings.
 
As I always say with instruments... People should stop expecting all dials and meters to show exact numbers!!!!

Even If You are using a voltage meter, or digital thermometer, there will be some variability..

2.5% or even 5% of speed difference is nothing.. Worry about more important things... And I say this with love in my heart.....
 
powersurge said:
2.5% or even 5% of speed difference is nothing.. Worry about more important things... And I say this with love in my heart.....
In most cases I would agree. However, this was a leased vehicle that I was being charged based off of the inaccurate odometer calibration (which was set to NMAC’s favor by 5%). I’m no lawyer, but think this is called fraud.
 
The menu adjustment +/- 2.5% was enough to calibrate my 2011 to within 1 mi/hr. I tried to use the menu adjustment on my 2015 when I first purchased it, but the car automatically returned the setting to zero after driving a while. I eventually found that the speedometer was within 1 mi/hr of a fast-response GPS with the original tires inflated to 44 psi. I noticed no change with the first set of replacement tires. I recently purchased new tires one size larger so I planned to use the menu adjustment to compensate. Again, the menu adjustment returned to zero after driving. I then discovered that the speedometer was still within 1 mi/hr (fast-response GPS generally indicated 1 mi/hr higher than speedometer). I eventually concluded that the navigation system GPS must send a calibration signal to the speedometer periodically (it also sends the clock signal to the eyebrow display so the clock never needs to be set). It does not calibrate the odometer so it now reads about 3.5% lower than actual distance diriven.

Edited to add: I don't know when the change was made, but the clock in the 2011 required periodic resetting and the +/- 2.5% adjustment in the menu was effective. The 2015 seems to set the clock and calibrate the speedometer automatically from the navigation system GPS.
 
GerryAZ said:
The menu adjustment +/- 2.5% was enough to calibrate my 2011 to within 1 mi/hr. I tried to use the menu adjustment on my 2015 when I first purchased it, but the car automatically returned the setting to zero after driving a while. I eventually found that the speedometer was within 1 mi/hr of a fast-response GPS with the original tires inflated to 44 psi. I noticed no change with the first set of replacement tires. I recently purchased new tires one size larger so I planned to use the menu adjustment to compensate. Again, the menu adjustment returned to zero after driving. I then discovered that the speedometer was still within 1 mi/hr (fast-response GPS generally indicated 1 mi/hr higher than speedometer). I eventually concluded that the navigation system GPS must send a calibration signal to the speedometer periodically (it also sends the clock signal to the eyebrow display so the clock never needs to be set). It does not calibrate the odometer so it now reads about 3.5% lower than actual distance diriven.

Edited to add: I don't know when the change was made, but the clock in the 2011 required periodic resetting and the +/- 2.5% adjustment in the menu was effective. The 2015 seems to set the clock and calibrate the speedometer automatically from the navigation system GPS.

I have driven the 2019 enough to confirm its speedometer (both analog and digital displays) is also accurate vs. my GPS regardless of tire pressures in the range of 36 to 44 psi. Therefore, it appears the GPS in the navigation system is providing signals to set the clock and calibrate the speedometer like the 2015 did. The odometer registers between 2% and 3% fewer miles than actually driven with OEM tires inflated to 44 psi so I will get a few extra miles of warranty coverage.
 
rogersleaf said:
powersurge said:
2.5% or even 5% of speed difference is nothing.. Worry about more important things... And I say this with love in my heart.....
In most cases I would agree. However, this was a leased vehicle that I was being charged based off of the inaccurate odometer calibration (which was set to NMAC’s favor by 5%). I’m no lawyer, but think this is called fraud.

I agree. Too many of us are having this problem. There must be a way to get this corrected.
 
My 2016 S speedometer displays 65mph while GPS showing 60mph.

I have taken my 2016_S to two different dealers and one said they tested and agreed that it was off by 3mph. The other said it was the abs actuator and is not adjustable. The General manager drove me in his care to check my GPS and his GPS to his Rogue. Both GPS's were exact with the Rogue speedometer.

Too many of use are having this problem with our Leafs (my other cars are accurate). We should stop trying to re-engineer or making complex theories or equations about why. The "Why" is why is Nissan turning a blind eye to us. The "What" is Nissan Leaf speedometer is flawed. The "How" is how do we get Nissan to fix the problem.

Unlike Gas cars, our range is super important since we cannot stop on any given corner for a charge.

Your thoughts?
 
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