Initial LeafSpy Readings - Need Guidance

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CWO4Mann

Well-known member
Leaf Supporting Member
Joined
Jul 28, 2011
Messages
476
Location
Brentwood, TN
Here are the OBC Codes displayed:

B2785 0008 HVAC Comp IPM Overheat HAC-96

B2786 0008 HVAC Comp IPM Discharge Temp Limit HAC-96

U1266 0208 Multi AV TCU Conn AV-92

U1232 0108 Multi AV St Angle Sen Calib AV-88

Here is the charging, etc Info as displayed after a full charge session with home L2 unit until all 3 blue lights went out:

42.02 Ahr
SOH 64.06&
Hx 41.82%
391.32 v 0.65 A
SOC: 88.8 %
Temp 69.30 f.
166 gids 59.1%
12.9 kWh Remains 46 wh

I'm using the LeafSpy instructions and information which came with the download, so I "think" I understand some of this.

Vehicle has 45,000 miles, always garaged, no bullet holes.
2012 Leaf delivered December 2011
Town and easy city driving only
Rarely charged with Quick Charge
Charged every few days from 15 miles to full using Blink home system 220v

I'd appreciate any insight you could give me.

Many thanks in advance,
Dave
 
Not sure exactly what you're asking for. Are you having a problem with the car? Do you just want an evaluation of the battery?

CWO4Mann said:
Here are the OBC Codes displayed:

B2785 0008 HVAC Comp IPM Overheat HAC-96

B2786 0008 HVAC Comp IPM Discharge Temp Limit HAC-96

I believe I got these two codes in my 2011 Leaf when I left the AC running in very hot weather (95F+) for an extended period of time. The AC stopped working when these codes were thrown, and after driving the car a bit to cool it off, I had no further issues. In my case, I was plugged into a L2 charger on a very hot day while reading. I would not recommend running the AC while not moving for longer than 30-45 minutes in hot weather. The AC system doesn't have a big enough fan on the condensor coil.

Clear these codes. If your AC works properly and the codes don't come back, you're fine.


CWO4Mann said:
U1266 0208 Multi AV TCU Conn AV-92

This is a normal code and it indicates that you're using a 2G TCU (the cellmodem) and it was properly disconnected via the security mitigation TSB.

CWO4Mann said:
U1232 0108 Multi AV St Angle Sen Calib AV-88

Interestingly, my car threw this code once too. I believe this indicates that there may be a problem with the yaw sensor in the car. I was quoted around $1000 to replace the yaw sensor (I did not fix it). It happened when I test drove the car (after the car sat for a month without being used) and was likely due to a low 12V battery. I've cleared the code, charged the battery, and it has not returned.

I would charge your 12V battery (under the hood) while the car is off with an external battery charger and verify the battery is good. If the battery is low voltage, replace it. The Leaf is known for not properly charging the 12V battery, damaging them and throwing codes when the voltage is low.


CWO4Mann said:
Here is the charging, etc Info as displayed after a full charge session with home L2 unit until all 3 blue lights went out:

42.02 Ahr
SOH 64.06&
Hx 41.82%
391.32 v 0.65 A
SOC: 88.8 %
Temp 69.30 f.
166 gids 59.1%
12.9 kWh Remains 46 wh

You've got a old, worn out, 2012 Canary pack, it seems. Your pack is barely better than mine. Drive it until the range doesn't meet your needs, but it's quite shot at this point. I'm sure you've noticed the car's range isn't what it used to be.

CWO4Mann said:
Vehicle has 45,000 miles, always garaged, no bullet holes.

I'm... glad you've not been shot at?
 
Thank you very much for the guidance. You are a mind-reader. You answered all of my questions to my satisfaction. My new question is "what's a 'canary pack' .."? Is that like the canary in the coal mine sort of thing?

My daily driving is usually in a range of 5 to 50 miles round trip, so I'm going to not freak out about being stranded. Any long trips, we take the Porsche 928S.

Thanks again!

Dave
 
CWO4Mann said:
"what's a 'canary pack'

The first two years and a few months of LEAF production used a battery chemistry that degraded rather faster than expected. You have about 64% of original energy storage available.
 
I coined names for several of the versions of the Leaf pack. The first, awful chemistry, you now know. It was followed, in April of 2013 (to the misfortune of those who bought earlier build 2013 Leafs) by the much better 'Wolf Pack' (strong and tough, but not as heat resistant as it should be) and then the Nissan-named "Lizard Pack" in 2015, made until it was discontinued in mid 2016. That was the best pack, although still not extremely heat resistant over time. In cooler climates the Wolf and Lizard packs are nearly, but not quite, equal in longevity.
 
Way too late now but your charging habits are not good. You are charging from 15 to 100% every few days?

You should be avoiding extremes on either end if its possible and it sounds very possible. You have the "unforeseen" luxury of an 80% Charge setting; a feature MANY here would love to have. I suggest you use it.

FYI; I call it unforeseen because it seemed so useless in a short range vehicle but it would truly be a luxury for LEAFers now...
 
DaveinOlyWA said:
Way too late now but your charging habits are not good. You are charging from 15 to 100% every few days?

You should be avoiding extremes on either end if its possible and it sounds very possible. You have the "unforeseen" luxury of an 80% Charge setting; a feature MANY here would love to have. I suggest you use it.

FYI; I call it unforeseen because it seemed so useless in a short range vehicle but it would truly be a luxury for LEAFers now...

You think going to a regular 80% using time would do any good now?
Also I'm wondering about a new battery under warranty - my sales documents state that I have an 8-year or 100,000 mile warranty.
 
CWO4Mann said:
DaveinOlyWA said:
Way too late now but your charging habits are not good. You are charging from 15 to 100% every few days?

You should be avoiding extremes on either end if its possible and it sounds very possible. You have the "unforeseen" luxury of an 80% Charge setting; a feature MANY here would love to have. I suggest you use it.

FYI; I call it unforeseen because it seemed so useless in a short range vehicle but it would truly be a luxury for LEAFers now...

You think going to a regular 80% using time would do any good now?
Also I'm wondering about a new battery under warranty - my sales documents state that I have an 8-year or 100,000 mile warranty.

Going to 80% now would prevent further degredation, but it's already pretty worn out. If you don't need the range, do 80%. If you need the range, do 100%. We did 100% all winter because the car barely made it even at 100%, but we'll probably switch back to 80% in the summer, since we get more range.

The battery has two warranties:
5-year 60k mile Capacity - Triggers if the car hits 8 bars or less. If the car hits 8 bars or less and you take it into a dealership, free battery. This is expired on your car.
8-year 100k mile? cell failure - Triggers if the car has a cell fail or go bad. This is probably not the case on your car. You can use the second screen in LeafSpy to view the individual cell voltages. Bring up that screen and take a screenshot of the cell voltages when the car hits VLBW ("very low battery" not "low battery"). If one or two of the cells are way lower and the rest of the cells are high, you could take it into a dealership and have them run a Cell Voltage test. If it fails (which it almost never does), you would qualify for a new battery.

What you're likely to see at VLBW is that all of your cells are all over the place, because it's super worn out. This is the case with my battery.

If/when you do hit VLBW, don't leave the car like that. Charge it to at least 40% State of Charge (SOC in LeafSpy) ASAP, as leaving the car at low charge will damage the battery.
 
CWO4Mann said:
DaveinOlyWA said:
Way too late now but your charging habits are not good. You are charging from 15 to 100% every few days?

You should be avoiding extremes on either end if its possible and it sounds very possible. You have the "unforeseen" luxury of an 80% Charge setting; a feature MANY here would love to have. I suggest you use it.

FYI; I call it unforeseen because it seemed so useless in a short range vehicle but it would truly be a luxury for LEAFers now...

You think going to a regular 80% using time would do any good now?
Also I'm wondering about a new battery under warranty - my sales documents state that I have an 8-year or 100,000 mile warranty.

Oh yes, definitely! Degradation is cumulative. It can't be stopped but the rate can be slowed way down. You have no warranty for degradation. The 8 year/100,000 mile warranty is for workmanship. Good for a bad cell...and little else.
 
Thanks for the great advice, Dave.

N.B.: You know when I see your nickname "Dave in Oly" I always think of Olympia Beer -- My given name is David and when I was in the Army I drank gallons of Olympia Beer as it was always 10 cents a glass on draft at the Fort Lewis, WA NCO Club.

Cheers
 
CWO4Mann said:
Thanks for the great advice, Dave.

N.B.: You know when I see your nickname "Dave in Oly" I always think of Olympia Beer -- My given name is David and when I was in the Army I drank gallons of Olympia Beer as it was always 10 cents a glass on draft at the Fort Lewis, WA NCO Club.

Cheers

Awesome!! You are the 3rd famous person I know who like Oly Beer! :)

https://www.amazon.com/photos/shared/iUOQJO7OTueYAH--PJtpng.CT3AG9aju_cfArtj-u1CCE
 
In Re: The photo -- I used to have a white satin suit just like that which was tailored by the "James S. Lee Hong Kong Tailors" -- this was when I was stationed both in Thailand and in Penang "back in the day" -- it was my "Off-Post Party Suit". LOL Memory Lane. One of those guys looks like a young Elton John, too.

Cheers,

Dave in Music City USA
 
I never got the change to run LeafSpy stats on my 2013 MY (Feb build) but the capacity is very close to the OP (determined by charge time / total kW needed). It also has 8 bars left. 49,000 miles.

So given I still have 3 years left on the "defective" warranty, would the following actions speed up an actual failure of a cell or cells resulting in an entirely new battery?

1. Fast Charge it every day during the summer in 90 F heat.
2. Keep it at 100 pct all the time and leave it for days.
3. Discharge to near 0 pct (before turtle) and leave it for days.

Was disappointed that Nissan refused any assistance request at the 5 yr 3 month mark when the fourth bar dropped. But in day to day use it still has been great for commuting, errands, etc.
 
jdcbomb said:
I never got the change to run LeafSpy stats on my 2013 MY (Feb build) but the capacity is very close to the OP (determined by charge time / total kW needed). It also has 8 bars left. 49,000 miles.

So given I still have 3 years left on the "defective" warranty, would the following actions speed up an actual failure of a cell or cells resulting in an entirely new battery?

1. Fast Charge it every day during the summer in 90 F heat.
2. Keep it at 100 pct all the time and leave it for days.
3. Discharge to near 0 pct (before turtle) and leave it for days.

Was disappointed that Nissan refused any assistance request at the 5 yr 3 month mark when the fourth bar dropped. But in day to day use it still has been great for commuting, errands, etc.

None of that will "force" any single cell to fail but will degrade the entire pack and will invalidate any warranty claims.

The thought of discharging the pack to zero and letting it sit will create a "no car" situation. The rest will simply speed up the degradation process.
 
DaveinOlyWA said:
jdcbomb said:
I never got the change to run LeafSpy stats on my 2013 MY (Feb build) but the capacity is very close to the OP (determined by charge time / total kW needed). It also has 8 bars left. 49,000 miles.

So given I still have 3 years left on the "defective" warranty, would the following actions speed up an actual failure of a cell or cells resulting in an entirely new battery?

1. Fast Charge it every day during the summer in 90 F heat.
2. Keep it at 100 pct all the time and leave it for days.
3. Discharge to near 0 pct (before turtle) and leave it for days.

Was disappointed that Nissan refused any assistance request at the 5 yr 3 month mark when the fourth bar dropped. But in day to day use it still has been great for commuting, errands, etc.

None of that will "force" any single cell to fail but will degrade the entire pack and will invalidate any warranty claims.

The thought of discharging the pack to zero and letting it sit will create a "no car" situation. The rest will simply speed up the degradation process.

Although wouldn't it seem logical a further degraded pack would "finally" cause cell failure? A degraded pack by definition has cells that are unavailable due to some of them dropping below the minimum voltage?

This is actually my "3rd" car so even it became not drivable, I've got 2 other vehicles to depend on anyways.
 
jdcbomb said:
DaveinOlyWA said:
jdcbomb said:
I never got the change to run LeafSpy stats on my 2013 MY (Feb build) but the capacity is very close to the OP (determined by charge time / total kW needed). It also has 8 bars left. 49,000 miles.

So given I still have 3 years left on the "defective" warranty, would the following actions speed up an actual failure of a cell or cells resulting in an entirely new battery?

1. Fast Charge it every day during the summer in 90 F heat.
2. Keep it at 100 pct all the time and leave it for days.
3. Discharge to near 0 pct (before turtle) and leave it for days.

Was disappointed that Nissan refused any assistance request at the 5 yr 3 month mark when the fourth bar dropped. But in day to day use it still has been great for commuting, errands, etc.

None of that will "force" any single cell to fail but will degrade the entire pack and will invalidate any warranty claims.

The thought of discharging the pack to zero and letting it sit will create a "no car" situation. The rest will simply speed up the degradation process.

Although wouldn't it seem logical a further degraded pack would "finally" cause cell failure? A degraded pack by definition has cells that are unavailable due to some of them dropping below the minimum voltage?

This is actually my "3rd" car so even it became not drivable, I've got 2 other vehicles to depend on anyways.

ALL warranties are limited and slanted HEAVILY in favor of the manufacturer. Abuse simply is their out. You will make it easy for them.
 
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