Bought a 2013 Leaf With Low Capacity

[LeftieBiker]

The car has automatic headlights (auto setting on stalk) but does not have LED headlights.
Wish the original monroney was with the car but it's not, and nothing else in the car refers to the model besides the extended warranty paperwork, which calls it an S. So, sounds like the conclusion is it's an S with Premium.

The S has fewer options available. You have an SV with Premium Package and the Charge Package, which includes LED high beams only. The low beams are still halogen. .

To be clear, on the '13 SV, the possible packages are these (from bottom of specs tab of https://nissannews.com/en-US/nissan/usa ... -press-kit):
"Premium Package: Around View® Monitor, Bose® 7-speaker audio system" and
"LED Headlights + Quick Charge Port: LED headlights, auto on/off headlights, fog lights, quick charge port" - On this, the low beams are LED. IIRC, the high beams are still halogen.

The only possible package on the S is:
"Charge Package: 6.6 kW onboard charger (6 kW output), quick charge port, RearView Monitor" -- S retains the halogen headlights, regardless.

Unfortunately, since the OP is in a hotter part of the SF Bay Area (Walnut Creek and Concord get quite hot in the summer), that's not good news given the degradation already there and the crappy chemistry the car has. Unless the OP's range needs are limited, OP would be better served getting a minimally degraded '15 (with more heat resistant "lizard" pack) or an earlier car with lizard pack installed or a car w/battery thermal management.

I fixed my headlight goof. I knew the answer but typed it wrong anyway.

[danix]

Called Nissan today. As suspected, none of the warranties cover the battery.
Capacity warranty is long over, and the 8yr/100k battery warranty covers only "defects". I asked if the battery has to fail completely before it would be covered, and she said it's possible that there could be a defect that is covered without a complete failure.
So, I think the best thing to do is have the dealer do a battery test, and I'll also price out the telematics upgrade (she said there's typically a copay fee of $199 or $299 to cover labor).

In the meantime, if anyone is interested in buying this car from me, let me know.

[Lothsahn]

Called Nissan today. As suspected, none of the warranties cover the battery.
Capacity warranty is long over, and the 8yr/100k battery warranty covers only "defects". I asked if the battery has to fail completely before it would be covered, and she said it's possible that there could be a defect that is covered without a complete failure.
So, I think the best thing to do is have the dealer do a battery test, and I'll also price out the telematics upgrade (she said there's typically a copay fee of $199 or $299 to cover labor).

In the meantime, if anyone is interested in buying this car from me, let me know.

If your car has a 2G TCU, I personally would just disconnect it. Can be done with 15mins of your time or a free dealer visit. You can confirm it's done because you should have a leafspy DTC code showing the TCU comm error. Because it is a security related TSB, there is no charge for the disconnect.

If you have a 3G TCU upgrade already, you should be able to find a friendly dealer that will charge way less than $199 to upgrade the firmware to fix the battery drain issue. Many dealers do it for free--it takes like 5 minutes and honestly, it should be covered by Nissan anyway. If you must pay, I would push Nissan to fix that under their warranty--they sold a defective device and now want people to pay labor to fix the defect.

The only reason you should pay $199-299 is if you really want the EV connect app and you don't have the upgraded TCU. In that case, you're paying someone for the new TCU box and labor to install it. If you're considering selling the car, I wouldn't go this route...

The VLCI test will likely succeed. I can give you steps to determine if you have any out of balance cells, but again, you probably won't. I'm not aware of anyone having that test fail, even for a few people here with obvious cell failures. Having your battery fail outright would actually be the best scenario of all, but again, it's super unlikely. The 24kWh batteries are not known to randomly fail.

[LeftieBiker]

The LeafSpy voltage graph you posted shows that there are no bad cells, so if you have to pay for the dealer cell test, don't.

[GerryAZ]

The copay for the telematics upgrade should be $199 for parts and labor. There is no reason to even bother disconnecting the old 2G modem. If it has an early 3G modem upgrade, it could lock up once in a while and discharge the 12-volt battery. If you pay for the upgrade now, you should get a new modem with updated firmware that will not cause the lockup issue.

[Lothsahn]

The copay for the telematics upgrade should be $199 for parts and labor. There is no reason to even bother disconnecting the old 2G modem. If it has an early 3G modem upgrade, it could lock up once in a while and discharge the 12-volt battery. If you pay for the upgrade now, you should get a new modem with updated firmware that will not cause the lockup issue.

Gerry:

The old 2G modem had known security issues. You could hack a Leaf over the internet. I would personally not leave it connected, although now that the AT&T 2G network is disconnected, the risk is MUCH less.

There's also less of a 12V power drain with the TCU off.

[SageBrush]

So, I think the best thing to do is have the dealer do a battery test,

Waste of money; LeafSpy would have identified a weak cell.
You are throwing good money after bad ...

[danix]

There's a car dealer in the SF area called Shift. They said they'd pay $7600 for the car, but need title and registration to be in my name.
I went ahead and registered it, so it's now a 3 owner car. No idea if it will still be worth the same offer a month from now when I get the title, but we'll see.

Does anyone know for sure if the CPO and extended warranties can only be transfered between the named contact and the next purchaser, or any future purchaser? In other words, if I don't send in the paperwork, the warranties are still in the former owners name and I could have the next owner take them over. It's unlikely I think as they also ask for a recent carfax.

My range has gone up slightly to 57 miles (I know, it's a guess-o-meter). I'm still holding out hope that daily use may bring the battery back to life but yeah, also unlikely.

The Leaf is a decent car, it's just crippled with poor range. Enough for some purposes but not others.

[cwerdna]

There's a car dealer in the SF area called Shift. They said they'd pay $7600 for the car, but need title and registration to be in my name.

Lucky. In Feb 2019, they'd only offer me exactly $5K for my 11 bar 5/2013 built '13 Leaf SV w/premium. I think I was at 63K miles back then.

SOH back then was at around 82.xx to 83.xx then. It's still at around 82.xx% and was up to 82.7% last night. And, I'm still at 11 bars.

If you can unload it for $7600 w/no hassle, go for it.

[LeftieBiker]

My range has gone up slightly to 57 miles (I know, it's a guess-o-meter). I'm still holding out hope that daily use may bring the battery back to life but yeah, also unlikely.

The higher estimate just reflects your driving habits in the last few minutes before parking the car and shutting it off. Nothing more. It will NOT pick up more than a couple of additional miles of range, and that only from a full charge to equalize the cells (drive it right after charging ends). If you can get $7k for the car, run, don't walk, to accept the offer.