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I got the curt hitch brand hitch on sale shipped for like $113.

My miles per kwh sucked.
About 2 to 2.5 miles per kwh.

I made my trailer.
It was a 4'x8' bolt together harbor freight trailer 3 revisions ago when I bought it in 2008 to pull behind my diesel suburban.
Now it's a 4'x8.5' fully welded frame, rides on a 2,200lb brake axle with 12 inch steel belted radial load range E alloy wheels and Aluminum diamond plate deck.
I spent about $500 just on the brake axle, springs and wheels.
 
When it's warm with no trailer I get 4.5 to 4.7 miles per kwh.
Put the trailer on there some it drops close to 4.
 
Trim and miles are totally irrelevant when dealing with EVs and NEVER trust the dealer to test the battery for you. There's a hack to make the battery give more bars than the actual battery capacity. Buy the Nissan Leaf spy app and the connector cable for the app on amazon. Test the battery yourself. Even if it was not hacked a Leaf with 12 bars of battery capacity could be anything from 85.1% to 100% capacity. If it were at 85.1%, you could drive it one time and it would drop to 85% and be at 11 bars.
 
Trim and miles are totally irrelevant when dealing with EVs

In the case of used Leafs, eGolfs and a few other cars, the trim level (and now the option packages on the 2018+) determines whether or not you get a heat pump. That is often very important.
 
DustanT said:
So leafspy does not read the same as the car does is this normal?

https://imgur.com/BWg3xhx
https://imgur.com/bPDwndU
https://imgur.com/3KxZSBF

The only thing I see as abnormal is odo display in LeaSpy reading 1,420 vs 2,285 miles on your dash display. To fix that go into LeafSpy settings and select (toggle Green) CAN Odometer in miles. That should correct the odometer reading displayed in LeafSpy to match your dash display.

Everything else is normal. Range remaining etc will never be the same yet it should be close.


50odyFol.jpg
 
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