Melted charge port

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GerryAZ said:
Original looks like older Clipper Creek (Sun Country). Replacement looks like new Clipper Creek (Sun Country). Based upon the reports on Plug Share, it sounds like plug was making loose contact, causing buzzing, relay chatter, and/or failure to charge before it finally overheated to the point of damage.

I never had a problem with the 2011 (3.3 kW charger), but have had a few instances of the plug on public L2 chargers getting excessively warm with the 2015 because it draws more current. I always feel the plug after a few minutes to make sure it is not heating when I use public chargers.
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Agree with all of this. Also I'd say it's a good idea to visually inspect the plug for any signs of damage or overheating (melting, charring, arcing, discoloration) before plugging in at a public charger. Chances are any problems have already left signs. Also check the connectors at home from time to time.
 
Nubo said:
leafy30 said:
Do I understand correctly that the charger should have a circuit breaker that will shut it off if there are any problems during charging ?
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Certain problems. Not *all* problems.
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Yep, such as drawing more than what the breaker's rated for.

The Leaf shouldn't draw more than 6,600 watts at 240 volts (27.5 amps) on level 2. If it somehow drew 50 amps (not sure how) and the EVSE were on a 40 amp circuit, the breaker would trip. Leafs have no problem charging for hours on end every day at 6600 watts on a J1772 plug that isn't defective and doesn't have bad crimps.
 
Basically, you need to print out the PlugShare reports for that station, and present the owners of the station that and a copy of your repair bill. Hopefully their insurance will cover it.
 
Noticed our outlets getting charred moved to a new outlet now that one is getting burned too. This is a safety hazard and could burn down a home.

Unplugged my charger and touched it was hot to the touch nissan needs to recall the trickle chargers before some one is injured or killed in a fire
Wich I could post the pictures this is unacceptable
 
If it's your outlets that are melting, then you need to replace "charge port" with "outlets" in the title. Hot outlets usually mean worn outlets, or sometimes dirty contacts inside them. Or both. Have an electrician inspect your outlets. Any 1200 watt plug in appliance would likely have the same effect.
 
LeftieBiker said:
If it's your outlets that are melting, then you need to replace "charge port" with "outlets" in the title. Hot outlets usually mean worn outlets, or sometimes dirty contacts inside them. Or both. Have an electrician inspect your outlets. Any 1200 watt plug in appliance would likely have the same effect.
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Agreed. I'd suggest anyone using L1 charging at the very least install a quality brand-new receptacle with screw terminals (Do NOT use stab-in connectors for this). Take this opportunity to assess the condition of the wiring (signs of heat, condition of insulation). If unsure about any of this, don't hesitate to engage an electrician. L1 charging is like having a space-heater running on High for hours on end, day after day. The wiring needs to be in good condition.
 
I'd suggest anyone using L1 charging at the very least install a quality brand-new receptacle with screw terminals (Do NOT use stab-in connectors for this).
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There are two types of stab-in connections. The first is spring-loaded, and while it's the easiest to use, it's also the dangerous one, as the internal spring can break or stretch. The second type uses the side connection screws to tighten the internal clamp that holds the wires in the back. This kind is still in wide use, and AFAIK it is safe. I just installed one of those recently.
 
LeftieBiker said:
I'd suggest anyone using L1 charging at the very least install a quality brand-new receptacle with screw terminals (Do NOT use stab-in connectors for this).
Click to expand...

There are two types of stab-in connections. The first is spring-loaded, and while it's the easiest to use, it's also the dangerous one, as the internal spring can break or stretch. The second type uses the side connection screws to tighten the internal clamp that holds the wires in the back. This kind is still in wide use, and AFAIK it is safe. I just installed one of those recently.
Click to expand...
Yes, it's the former that are dangerous. The only connection is the small flap of metal serving as the "spring", so it's a very small contact area and the clamping force may not be sufficient.

So in addition to potentially increasing the heat at the connection point, there's less contact area to conduct heat away from the outlet via the wires.
Oulet_Connectors-Quckwire.jpeg
 
Receptacles vary tremendously in cost and as is often the case, you get what you pay for. You can probably find a standard 2-outlet 120V receptacle for < $1 or you can spend up to $5 for 'spec grade' receptacles. For me, it's money well spent to get the best one you can find for an EVSE outlet.
 

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