If the pack is holding up well, then $9900 is a good residual. If it isn't, I suggest you turn the car in.Oils4AsphaultOnly wrote:Welps. Can't believe 3 years is almost up already! Anyone have any new info about end-of-lease strategies (my 2016 S has a 9900 residual)? Or maybe a recommended dealership to try to negotiate a better buyout price?
Still got 12 bars (~83%). good enough to warrant buying it out. Just trying to avoid paying any extra fees.LeftieBiker wrote:If the pack is holding up well, then $9900 is a good residual. If it isn't, I suggest you turn the car in.Oils4AsphaultOnly wrote:Welps. Can't believe 3 years is almost up already! Anyone have any new info about end-of-lease strategies (my 2016 S has a 9900 residual)? Or maybe a recommended dealership to try to negotiate a better buyout price?
Tough decision especially in your area. How well is the range "minus 20%" working for you? I had a S30 with a $9100 residual and never would have kept it. Simply wasn't enough to future proof a TCO on a purchase. Right now, my S40 has a $9600 residual (monthly lease $120 a month higher though) and if the packOils4AsphaultOnly wrote:Welps. Can't believe 3 years is almost up already! Anyone have any new info about end-of-lease strategies (my 2016 S has a 9900 residual)? Or maybe a recommended dealership to try to negotiate a better buyout price?
Current range is fine. "Minus 20%" will be barely doable. But for my wife, she can use it even at 4 bars left, but she'd rather have a used model Y, so it's a race to see which happens first.DaveinOlyWA wrote:Tough decision especially in your area. How well is the range "minus 20%" working for you? I had a S30 with a $9100 residual and never would have kept it. Simply wasn't enough to future proof a TCO on a purchase. Right now, my S40 has a $9600 residual (monthly lease $120 a month higher though) and if the packOils4AsphaultOnly wrote:Welps. Can't believe 3 years is almost up already! Anyone have any new info about end-of-lease strategies (my 2016 S has a 9900 residual)? Or maybe a recommended dealership to try to negotiate a better buyout price?
1) Holds up well, I will buy
2) Degrades so fast a warranty replacement is likely
I will buy.
Thanks for the reply LeftieBiker. What you say is true. However, if I had a 30/40 KWH battery, we could eliminate more weekend ICE trips on our primary car, so if the price is right, that might be a good way to go.LeftieBiker wrote:With your commute, unless you take much longer trips you have no need for a larger battery and should keep your Leaf.
As I posted in another thread, a UT dealer is selling the 40 kWh LEAF 'S' model for $21,500 before tax credits or TTL. Figure out your tax credits and go from there. The CVRP requires in-state purchase.socaluser wrote:Hello everyone,
I am located in Orange County and currently have a 24 KWh 2016 S with QC option. My lease ends in early Sept and I haven't exceeded 36K and my residual is only 9000. I've read about the last 20 pages of this thread and am trying to come up with a strategy. I currently have all 12 bars. I haven't loaded up LeafSpy to determine the SOH but that's on my list. My original lease terms were 0 down and 170/month, which I'm guessing I won't be able to replicate again this time! SO, with my total lease payments come out to 6K - 2.5K for the CA rebate. This means, with the residual, I would have only paid $12.5K if I chose to keep it. 2016 Leafs seem to be going for around 10-12K here, so keep the car seems like a no brainer with my $9K residual.
I'm fine with keeping the car, but would obviously like a 30KW or maybe even 40 so I'm open to leasing a new Leaf, but really don't want to pay the $300/month with $3K down that I'm seeing! My commute is only 10 miles each way and I driven about 10.5K miles a year.
Am I way off base with any of my thinking here? Any thoughts or suggestions are greatly appreciated! Thanks.