2012 starts charging then stops OK on DC

OK new guy here yup recurring topic. Yes I did search the forums and Google and I have some good ideas but I am still not sure so hope posting is ok.

I am looking at buying my first leaf it is a 2012 with almost 100k 8 bars left and has charging issue but price is right given the issue I believe.

Seems it has been charging no issue for years now and all of a sudden it will not charge with L1 or L2 but does charge no issue with the DC fast charger. I searched and sounded like it could be the diode issue but I really am not sure.

The car is several hours away from me so it is a bit of a hike to go take a look but again the price seems right so I am willing to go. But I would like to have some more knowledge beforehand to make sure I am heading in the right direction.

The current owner says he has tried the original charger that came with the car, several public charges and his work charger all do the same thing. The car starts to charge like normal then then in 10 seconds it stops. Now based on what I have read this may not be the diode issue because I thought I read that the original car L1 charger does not do a diode check.

So before I get myself into some money pit does anyone have some advice could this still be the diode issue, OBC, or AC to DC converter. Again I have searched but I cannot seem to find any thread that says it starts to charge like normal and in 10 sec stops so that's why I posted.

Now keep in mind I don't mind fixing things I have torn apart a Smart EV including the battery so working on the car is not an issue for me. What I am lacking is specific Leaf knowledge and need some advice because I know all to well that a good price can quickly become a bad deal all to fast.

Thanks everyone for taking the time to read appreciate any and all advice.

Surprised few days and no replies maybe the old leafs are end of life as don't see to much activity on these forums.

Heading out tomorrow to potentially purchase this leaf any advice would be great trying not to get into a money pit.

You need to get LeafSpy so you can see what error codes come up.

joeriv said:

You need to get LeafSpy so you can see what error codes come up.

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Thanks for the reply.

I have leaf spy pro on on my phone and I have the recommended dongle.

I am driving 3 hours to see the car do you think if it needs a new OBC 92k with 8 bars it is worth 3.5k? Could just be the diode won't know till I take a look but if it is not worth the drive...

I am driving 3 hours to see the car do you think if it needs a new OBC 92k with 8 bars it is worth 3.5k? Could just be the diode won't know till I take a look but if it is not worth the drive...

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Only if you KNOW that it only needs the diode fix. If that's still just a guess, pass.

LeftieBiker said:

I am driving 3 hours to see the car do you think if it needs a new OBC 92k with 8 bars it is worth 3.5k? Could just be the diode won't know till I take a look but if it is not worth the drive...

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Only if you KNOW that it only needs the diode fix. If that's still just a guess, pass.

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Thanks I plan to bring Leaf Spy and a multimeter to check the diode. At least in my area a car like this fully working would be at least 5.5k on average that's why I thought even if this one needs some work it could be worth it. I seen OBC on ebay for $600 and there is always the repair option assuming it is the OBC.

If it had a 10+ bar pack, then extensive repairs might make sense. But with a 7+ bar pack you'd be sinking a lot of money and effort into a car with a 35-40 mile (and always decreasing) range.

I just sold my 2012 leaf 62k 9 bars for $4,300, if that one has 8 bars sooner or later will fall to 7 i wouldnt buy the car even if was just the diode, at range the car wont go very far and winter depending where u live will make the car unusable, add the taxes most states are adding to registration fees and u wont really save money.

Deoc said:

I just sold my 2012 leaf 62k 9 bars for $4,300, if that one has 8 bars sooner or later will fall to 7 i wouldnt buy the car even if was just the diode, at range the car wont go very far and winter depending where u live will make the car unusable, add the taxes most states are adding to registration fees and u wont really save money.

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Seems like you gave them a good deal not sure where you are located. But in the NJ area a leaf like yours would easy go for 6-7k but I do see them listed in not sure why in GA, FL, CA, OR for the best prices in what you sold range. Issue is by the time you pay for transport not worth it and as you know driving that far and charging every 50ish miles could take a few days.

Some things came up and I did not make the trip to see the car but the more advice I get here the more I think I should just pass.

Really wanted a used car for my sons first car but maybe I should just get new. In my area you can get 5k rebate from the utility on the new Leaf then the 7.5k so that's 12.5k off out of the gate. There is no sales tax here so if I can find a SV model that is about 32k the rebates bring it down to 20k and its the new model with warranty much better range really a whole lot better all around but more $ for sure.

Unless you really want a project car, wait, spend more money and get a car with a better battery.
I almost went for a 9 bar $4,500 car, so glad I didn't. I waited, searched and found a 12 bar car that's kept all 12 bars for over a year now and had it shipped to me from up north for $7,200.
I am much happier with 12 bars and spending $2,700 more.
There's no way I could have swapped in a 12 bar battery even doing it my self for less than that difference.

Oilpan4 said:

Unless you really want a project car, wait, spend more money and get a car with a better battery.
I almost went for a 9 bar $4,500 car, so glad I didn't. I waited, searched and found a 12 bar car that's kept all 12 bars for over a year now and had it shipped to me from up north for $7,200.
I am much happier with 12 bars and spending $2,700 more.
There's no way I could have swapped in a 12 bar battery even doing it my self for less than that difference.

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Yea don't mind a project car and he is down to 3k for the car so that is really the low end as I see cars at auction damaged with salvage title going for this area just for parts. For me to spend 7k+ on a 12 or 13 another 12k and I have a brand new car with the 150m range 3 years of connect many extras long warranty.

My though was new drivers first car so used EV good way to go just going to school and back.

So if I cannot get what I would term as a great deal on a used I am not seeing the advantage.