2019 "60 kWh" Leaf e-Plus

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SageBrush said:
A LEAF charging optimization thought I have been mulling over that I think Bjorn Nyland has also mentioned is to drive faster during the first part of a leg and slower for the 30 - 45 minutes before you reach your next charging stop. Perhaps 65 and 55 mph as a WAG. Your goal is to not be hobbled by rapid-gate. It will help you to monitor battery temps throughout your drive to help plan driving speeds.

Two other thoughts:
At long stops (e.g. a meal) do not start charging until the battery temp is below rapid-gate level

You can "speed" during the final leg to your destination if needed

Right now, heat gained during driving will be minimal and in the morning will actually go down if temps are over 100º. Over the past several days (temp change) I have only been charging 15 mins on QC and haven't seen 80º (which is actually below optimum for QC) yet. But pack is starting in low to mid 60's.
 
Hey has anyone with an Eplus run their battery down under 10 percent.

What happens on the display? Does it still display in percent or range.

Any idea on the reserve?

Just a curiousity thing. Not counting on running it down that far. (But ya never know :) ).

Oh. One more thing. Our 2016 still has a CD player. I’m assuming that’s gone. (We have had the same James Taylor CD in ours for 3 years so it won’t be missed).

Thanks all.
 
webeleafowners said:
Any idea on the reserve?
.
None.

Any appearance of a reserve is a poorly calibrated battery that is transient. The people peddling the notion of a reserve are clueless.
 
SageBrush said:
webeleafowners said:
Any idea on the reserve?
.
None.

Any appearance of a reserve is a poorly calibrated battery that is transient. The people peddling the notion of a reserve are clueless.

Thanks for your input. I asked this once before and got a couple replys but am interested in as many experiences as possible.
 
SageBrush said:
webeleafowners said:
Any idea on the reserve?
.
None.

Any appearance of a reserve is a poorly calibrated battery that is transient. The people peddling the notion of a reserve are clueless.

If the range or SOC remaining below the GOM cutoff is consistent, then it is a reserve at least in effect, and you are putting people off for no good reason. We need more information, not dismissive snark.
 
LeftieBiker said:
SageBrush said:
webeleafowners said:
Any idea on the reserve?
.
None.

Any appearance of a reserve is a poorly calibrated battery that is transient. The people peddling the notion of a reserve are clueless.

If the range or SOC remaining below the GOM cutoff is consistent, then it is a reserve at least in effect, and you are putting people off for no good reason. We need more information, not dismissive snark.
.
Read again. The miscalibration is ***transient***, aka not consistent.
The only reasonable thing to do with the "reserve" BS is to dismiss it.
 
I read what you wrote. How do you know that the "miscalibration" is "transient"...? You tend to throw a bit too much of your personal biases into what you write, so I don't by default accept everything you state as fact as...fact.
 
So when the GOM starts flashing there is a 10-30 mile effective reserve, depending on how much power the car is drawing (excluding full throttle and maximum heat) for those miles?
 
DougWantsALeaf said:
https://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=30267

I have also seen north of 5kW left when gauge hits 1%. VLB happens miles after the gauge hits 1% and range flashes.
Do you mean 5 kWh?

Regardless, I already stated what my thoughts are on "kWh" reported by Leaf Spy at https://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?p=567385#p567385.

Here are two things Turbo3 (Leaf Spy author) has written about the kWh calculation and how much energy each gid has:
https://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?p=394038#p394038
https://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?p=521838#p521838
webeleafowners said:
Any idea on the reserve?
I think a problem here with the discussion is that there isn't a commonly agreed upon definition of "reserve" for the Leaf. What does this mean?

I can think of many definitions which might not match what Sage, webeleafowners or DougWantsALeaf have in mind nor what most people here might (?) think.
 
You guys are a hoot. Now that the meaning of "reserve" has become personal preference, Lefty tries to muddy the waters further with "effective reserve."
WELL DONE ! ... if the goal is gibberish. Throw in some kW for extra points.

Try this: The LEAF does not purposely misrepresent the battery SoC to the driver. There is no intentional positive or negative bias in the SoC display. The SoC meter however can be wrong and often is. Perhaps up to 2.5% in either direction.
 
Has an ePlus driver yet run out of charge while the GOM was displaying a range? You know, as happens to Tesla drivers occasionally? No? Then "effective reserve" it is.
 
LeftieBiker said:
Has an ePlus driver yet run out of charge while the GOM was displaying a range? You know, as happens to Tesla drivers occasionally? No? Then "effective reserve" it is.
.
Hmmm

Say 10,000 e+ on the road, so perhaps 5,000 Leaf*month
1% post to MNL ?
.. 50 LEAF*month

5% foolish enough to drive down to way below 5% SoC ?
.. 2.5 LEAF*month

Your conclusion rests on wet toilet paper.
 
At our age(s), I think we should always post as if our latest words may be our last. Do you want yours to be "wet toilet paper"...? My beloved adopted feline daughter calls, so I'm done.
 
webeleafowners said:
Hey has anyone with an Eplus run their battery down under 10 percent.

What happens on the display? Does it still display in percent or range.

Any idea on the reserve?

Just a curiousity thing. Not counting on running it down that far. (But ya never know :) ).

Oh. One more thing. Our 2016 still has a CD player. I’m assuming that’s gone. (We have had the same James Taylor CD in ours for 3 years so it won’t be missed).

Thanks all.

https://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=30267#p566697

I carefully ran my new car completely dead to get a baseline on actual range and battery storage capacity. I posted results in the thread !inked above. The SL+ was different than my previous LEAFs in that the Low Battery Warning came in with much more energy left and there was no audible or visual Very Low Battery Warning. The distance to empty (DTE or GOM) did change to flashing numbers at LBW and then to flashing --- a little later (i consider that VLBW even though there was no other audible or visual warning).
 
GerryAZ said:
I carefully ran my new car completely dead to get a baseline on actual range and battery storage capacity. I posted results in the thread !inked above. The SL+ was different than my previous LEAFs in that the Low Battery Warning came in with much more energy left and there was no audible or visual Very Low Battery Warning. The distance to empty (DTE or GOM) did change to flashing numbers at LBW and then to flashing --- a little later (i consider that VLBW even though there was no other audible or visual warning).
That was an informative post -- thanks.
Is your LeafSpy set at the default Wh/Gid ?

This forum has a fantastic thread called "What is a Gid" started back in 2012 that has an excellent discussion about measuring usable battery capacity and associated pitfalls.
https://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?t=7828
One important message is to not trust the SoC or Gid values at the bottom of the battery, anecdotes notwithstanding.

Choice quotes from Phil, aka Engineer the LEAF hacker extra-ordinaire (now in Tesla land) and Gary Giddings of Gid reknown:
The Battery ECU computes SOC and Watt-hours remaining by 2 methods; One is by coulomb counting with a hall-effect ammeter, and the other is by watching open-circuit voltage of the pack and performing a complex calculation based on multiple inputs. Because the coulomb counting method has some drift due to the hall-effect system, Periodically the battery ECU will dynamically adjust these figures to keep them accurate. This is why the apparent charge drops a little faster initially sometimes.

Scaling these "Gids" by 80 (or 100/281) does not change the base data, which still gets "used up" faster at the top end, and occasionally appears to be "not really available" at the low end.

You can scale 281 (by 80) to 22480 Wh (or by 0.08 to get 22.5 kWh) if you find it helpful, however the top "kWh" will still disappear faster, and the bottom couple of "kWh" might occasionally be just "wishful thinking".

So, however you like it scaled, please use this "Gid" value ... cautiously.
 
Ok, so I just wasted nearly 2 mins scrolling the last two pages dedicated to defining "reserve?"

Reserve was defined DECADES ago by gassers and its simply the distance one can drive when the gauge is at ZERO. It is that simple.

Someone with an agenda has decided it is ok to denigrate Nissan's metering as faulted due to the presence of this reserve while driving a car that has the potential to and has done so several times; leave him stranded with a gauge saying he can continue to drive.

Now I have read people who bragged about the accuracy of their gauge claiming when it was zero, there was nothing left in the tank. Not hard to figure out how they came to that conclusion but I have never owned such a beast.

I took my Prius well over 50 miles past DTE (Distance to Empty) more than once and negating the days when I opted to eat over buying gas, I have never run out of gas.
 
GerryAZ said:
webeleafowners said:
Hey has anyone with an Eplus run their battery down under 10 percent.

What happens on the display? Does it still display in percent or range.

Any idea on the reserve?

Just a curiousity thing. Not counting on running it down that far. (But ya never know :) ).

Oh. One more thing. Our 2016 still has a CD player. I’m assuming that’s gone. (We have had the same James Taylor CD in ours for 3 years so it won’t be missed).

Thanks all.

https://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=30267#p566697

I carefully ran my new car completely dead to get a baseline on actual range and battery storage capacity. I posted results in the thread !inked above. The SL+ was different than my previous LEAFs in that the Low Battery Warning came in with much more energy left and there was no audible or visual Very Low Battery Warning. The distance to empty (DTE or GOM) did change to flashing numbers at LBW and then to flashing --- a little later (i consider that VLBW even though there was no other audible or visual warning).

I am guessing you still get the "_ _ _" on the SOC meter as well? Did you notice what GID level that happened at?
 
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