Nov update. 322 GID's 70.37AH, SOH=88.54%, Hx=69.88%, 68500 total mi. 25335 mi on new battery. 18 DCFC and 482 l2 charges on the new battery. The battery is continuing to slowly degrade. Now that cooler weather is here again I expect the battery will show a slower loss until April or May. After 16 months I'm down 11.3% compared to new. It looks like I'll be down by 23-25% when the warranty expires. That's about 18 months away at the rate i'm driving. That's also about as much battery loss as I care to deal with. I'd like to wait for the Model Y or the ID4 but I don't know when they will actually be available. There a outside chance that the Tesla Pickup shows up and I replace both the Leaf and my old Tundra with it. I have to have a pickup but I hate driving the Tundra because of the fuel economy. If the Tesla Pickup has a Crew cab, I might be able to kill two birds with one stone.
2016-2017 model year 30 kWh bar losers and capacity losses
- Thread starter cwerdna
- Start date
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Titanium48
Well-known member
^ Electricity is cheaper than gasoline but it still isn't free. An electric pickup will be more power hungry than a Model Y (as well as a pain to park), so why not get a utility trailer to haul stuff with instead of using a pickup as a commuter vehicle?
Titanium48 said:
At some point, some manufacturer will start to offer quick-connect and disconnect trailers with automatic docking with the tow vehicle. You'd just select docking mode, and slowly back up to the trailer in your yard or garage (or trailer rental site), which would then attach to the car on its own, with integrated towing and electrical connections in one connection. Then it will be easy and more feasible for people to own a family EV (or ICE) and a trailer that holds as much as a pickup truck bed, rather than own a pickup truck.
SageBrush said:
You really can't imagine not having learned to connect a trailer to a car? That's odd. Many people don't even learn how to drive.
I'm on solar so the cost of power isn't an issue, the cost of insurance is. Insuring a pickup is cheaper than insuring a pickup and another car. Part of the reason for the pickup is hauling a horse trailer, something I'd be reluctant to do even with an S or an X. Otherwise I'd have traded the Tundra in for a mini-truck years ago. The Tundra is 14 years old and only has 45,000 miles on it. I've had to have the wiring harness replaced twice and repaired twice more due to rodents chewing on the wiring. Mice and rats like to nest under the intake manifold and a lot of the wiring for sensors is there. You are right about trying to park, though. At some point I'll have to replace the Tundra anyway so maybe an electric pickup makes sense. I'd need a crew cab though if I use it to replace the Leaf.Titanium48 said:
Titanium48
Well-known member
I see the problem now. It is unfortunate that most insurance is based on a fixed term rather than distance driven, providing a perverse incentive towards inefficient compromise vehicles and penalizing people for keeping old but functional vehicles around to use occasionally for jobs that a smaller, more efficient primary vehicle can't do.
Titanium48 said:
Some policies do take into account miles driven per year. Actually, I think that most do, at least those for older drivers like me. It just isn't the major factor.
My insurance does take mileage into account as well as type of usage but the difference is pretty small. The truck is still worth enough that I keep collision and comprehensive on it. The Tesla pickup is a long shot anyway. I'm going to have to replace the Leaf either next year or the beginning of 2021. I'd be surprised if Tesla gets the pickup into production before the summer of 2021. They need to ramp up the Y and start the Semi production. Giga factory 4 is scheduled for Germany. I'd expect them to build Giga factory 5 to build the pickup if the volume is what they expect. Maybe put it in Mississippi or Louisiana (truck country and cheaper labor). Since they have the pattern down, it could be built quickly.Titanium48 said:
GRA
Well-known member
I've got pay-as-you-drive insurance, which currently costs a bit under $50/month to leave the car sitting parked, plus $0.07/mile up to 250 miles/day, all miles beyond that on the same day being free. Although it's not that much cheaper than the lowest annual mileage (5k IIRR) fixed-rate policy I could have gotten from my old insurance company (CSAA), that 7 cents/mile is enough of an incentive for me to avoid using the car for almost all trips that I can do on my bike with or without combining with transit.
Oils4AsphaultOnly
Well-known member
GRA said:
Is that liability only? If so, that's a terrible rate!
Titanium48
Well-known member
^Agreed. If it is liability only there should be no flat rate, or at most a nominal administration charge (<$5 / month). $50 per month is still pricey even if it includes things like theft and vandalism though - that portion of a fixed-time comprehensive policy is usually less than a quarter of the total premium.
cwerdna
Well-known member
https://www.facebook.com/groups/NissanLeafOwners/permalink/2794697633961541/ (initials EA) claims his '16 30 kWh Leaf in Phoenix, AZ has lost its 4th bar. He says the update for incorrect capacity reporting had already been applied.
If we get another, I guess I'll have to start another list.
If we get another, I guess I'll have to start another list.
GRA
Well-known member
Oils4AsphaultOnly said:
Nope, comp, collision, the whole shebang. On a car as old as mine I know it doesn't make financial sense to keep everything, but I prefer to pay more per month and not have to take the one-time hit for major damage, including things like deer and trees falling on the car. I don't think AAA made a dime off me for years on my previous Subaru because I had a low comp deductible.
The original rate was $10/month cheaper (it's actually a daily rate, and varies by the number of days in the billing period) and $0.05/mile, free over 150 miles/day. I'm assuming they changed the 150 to 250 when they realized that most of the weekend getaways in the Bay Area were between 150 and 250 miles radius, and boosted the other rates at the same time last year. I was quite pissed at the time over the 28% jump in the basic rate and the 40% jump in the mileage rate, and let them know it, but have been too lazy to look around, and Metromile is about the only PAYD company that doesn't also want to monitor your driving habits, which is not something I'm comfortable with any company doing.
GaleHawkins
Well-known member
After three weeks of owning our 2016 Leaf SL all cells are now blue when charged as of this morning. At first all were red fully charged then last week some would go blue.
I'm going to have to work more with Leaf Spy Pro to understand the data it provides.
State of Health of the is 65% and it still is showing 9/12 bars like we I purchased it.
I'm going to have to work more with Leaf Spy Pro to understand the data it provides.
State of Health of the is 65% and it still is showing 9/12 bars like we I purchased it.
You should get a new battery in the coming year (at most two) under the 8 year, 100,000 mile capacity warranty.
DougWantsALeaf
Well-known member
Are the battery warranties transferable?
DougWantsALeaf said:
Yes. There is some question about what happens if the annual battery report isn't done, but AFAIK Nissan hasn't denied a replacement for that reason.
GaleHawkins
Well-known member
LeftieBiker said:
That is what the salesman at the Nissan dealership told me but here I have read some just get bad cells replaced. Nissan has stated the battery controller software has to be applied first to see if it will give the missing SOH bars back. Currently my range is about 70 miles max going to until the turtle icon pops up on the display. I expect the software upgrade will fix it from what I have read but if not I guess I will learn what Nissan wants to do. Currently the battery seems to be more stable and I am working to understand how the software patch works before going for that fix. If it does not fix it than I will be pushing for a new battery but they have not been put in new cars for over two years so that could get interesting. Leaf Spy Pro is really helping me learn about EV batteries.
I think the person who had leased the 2016 Leaf for 3 years only used the OEM L1 perhaps based on the 740 recharges averaged out to occur every 30 miles of driving. At first it only reported a range of 72 miles when fully charged. The with deep recharges on the L2 charger it reported as high as 95 miles but that would drop by about 3-4 miles for every actual mile driven. Now a 100% charge shows a range of like 72-84 miles but seems to be without any real meaning. Not sure how it popped to 95 that one time.
The car looks new like inside and out and has the 4 exterior cameras that I need when parking since I have no head movement due to arthritis that fused my spine. I never want to be without an EV in the future.
The car has been in service for 38 months and today only has 23,000 miles so I have some coverage for a while. I am getting new tires tomorrow since the OEM's are down to the markers. That is not many miles for Michelin tires in my view but I know the leaf is heavy.
Thanks for the comments because I have a lot to learn and appreciate this website for info.
If your problem was bad cells, you wouldn't be showing a loss of capacity bars - just a huge drop in range as you drive. (Not just the usual self-corrections of the inaccurate range estimator.) You do need to have the software patch applied to get a new battery, but that doesn't usually restore more than one or two bars, IIRC, and your range seems to indicate a genuinely degraded battery.