Brakes Fail upon Powering On

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I also had the "brakes fail at power-on" issue, it would then be normal 30 minutes later. However, I subsequently had the issue of virtually no brakes while driving on the highway. All the brake associated warning lights came on. It was then fine the next day so that I could drive it to the Nissan dealership. So far, the first 5 miles from the dealership after repair have been normal.
Here is the pertinent info from the dealer invoice. (This is a 2015 Leaf about 1 week from the 3 year warrantee expiring.)

:3 : 14 23APR.1g Ilo : o+ 0lMAv -o r LINE OPCODE TECH TYPE HOURS
A Brake warning and ABS lights come on ano v- r;;ar y no braking with
loud shuttering noise. Then later ail- is normal.
CAUSE: CUSTOMER STATES AT T]MES VEH]CLE W]LL NOT HAVE BRAKES, ABS LIGHT
AND BRAKE L]GHT COME ON.
30 Brake warning and ABS lights come on and
virtually no braking with loud shuttering
noise. Then later all- is normal.
3333 W L 46007-4NPOC CONTROLLER ASSY-BRAKE
L 47560_4NA1A ACTUATOR ASSY-ANTISKID
L 24012-3NHOA HARNESS-ENGINE ROOM
(N/C)
(N/c)
(N/c)
(N/C)
SUBL RENTAL PO#NCI6633
W (N/C)
PARTS: 0.00 LABOR: 0.00 OTHER: 0.00 TOTAL LINE A: 0.00
26986 CUSTOMER STATES AT TTMES VEHICLE WILL NOT HAVE BRAKES, ABS
LIGHT AND BRAKE LIGHT COME ON. "FOUND CODES C118A U1OOO UllOD P3195.
CALLED TECH LINE. FOUND THAT CODES ABE VNDER ENG]NEERfNG REVIEW. WAS
ADVTSED TO REPLACE ENG]NE ROOM HARNESS, E DRIVEN TNTHLL]GENT BRAKE
SYSTEM CONTROLLER, AND ABS ACTUATOR. REPLACED HARNESS ASSEMBLY, ABS
ACTUATOR, AND INTELLIGENT BRAKE SYSTEM CONTROLLER. TESTED OPERATION AND
VERIFIED REPAIR. TECH LrNE CASE J000L230976 , ****************************************************
 
I had the brake failure at power on issue on my 2016 SL. Nothing on the dash alerted me. The brakes did work, but it seemed like no vacume assist, so had to press really hard. Towed to a dealer. Showed this thread to the dealer and they replaced the 12v battery. Very scary, I rolled out into an intersection and luckily I was not in an accident or ran over a pedestrian.
 
Same problem. 2015 Leaf, with a 12V battery that is less than a year old (though some have said that's not the issue anyway).

Anyone figure out what's happening with this? My Nissan dealer here looked at it, couldn't replicate the issue (brakes started working after we towed it in), and then suggested about $7K worth of complete overhaul, which I figured was their way of saying "We don't know what the problem is, so we'll suggest an absurd amount, knowing he'll say no, but releasing our liability if something goes wrong again".

Thanks
 
ponohome said:
Same problem. 2015 Leaf, with a 12V battery that is less than a year old (though some have said that's not the issue anyway).

Anyone figure out what's happening with this? My Nissan dealer here looked at it, couldn't replicate the issue (brakes started working after we towed it in), and then suggested about $7K worth of complete overhaul, which I figured was their way of saying "We don't know what the problem is, so we'll suggest an absurd amount, knowing he'll say no, but releasing our liability if something goes wrong again".

Thanks

Do you leave the car plugged in for long periods (6+ hours, days...) after charging ends or before it begins?
 
ponohome said:
Same problem. 2015 Leaf, with a 12V battery that is less than a year old (though some have said that's not the issue anyway).

Anyone figure out what's happening with this? My Nissan dealer here looked at it, couldn't replicate the issue (brakes started working after we towed it in), and then suggested about $7K worth of complete overhaul, which I figured was their way of saying "We don't know what the problem is, so we'll suggest an absurd amount, knowing he'll say no, but releasing our liability if something goes wrong again".

Thanks

"It's 'idiopathic'. That's Latin. It means they're idiots and they have no idea what's wrong." -- House MD
 
CAN Bus communication problems can cause the loss of power assist, but the brakes should still work as long as the hydraulic system is intact (requires extremely high pedal pressure and pedal will go almost to floor). It may seem like total brake failure because it may feel like the pedal is going to the floor even though it is not quite to the floor and extreme pressure on the pedal will apply the brakes. CAN Bus communication problems are often caused by low voltage on the 12-volt system so the issue may temporarily clear if the car is placed in ready mode for a few minutes to charge the 12-volt battery and then powered off followed by restart.

CAN Bus communication problems can also set ABS/Brake Controller error codes which cause the ABS pump and solenoid valves to operate continuously when the brake pedal is pressed. In this case, power assist is still present when brake pedal is firmly pressed, but it is hard to modulate brake action (pedal acts like an on/off switch). Again, temporary fix involves clearing all of the trouble codes (which usually requires disconnecting/reconnecting the 12-volt battery a couple of times with LEAF Spy Pro code clearing procedures followed multiple times. In my case, the permanent fix was to replace the intelligent brake controller because it would occasionally cause CAN Bus communication errors with the ABS/traction control system which caused the ABS pump/valves to run continuously (I suspect an internal firmware/software issue--dealer replaced intelligent brake controller with extended warranty picking up the cost).
 
Ninjarider1978 said:
My 2015 S just had the same problems as mentioned above in numerous other posts. I would not expect it to be a battery problem since the vehicle is only 2 months old. Just last Friday I had the recall performed on the vehicle the same as the person above. It is not that cold here, in fact warmer than it has been in the mornings.

Read the DTC codes

U100D 0109 ABS CAN Comm Circuit
U110D 0109 ABS E-Driven Intelligent Brake Comm BRC-130
Ok None ---> AIR BAG
Ok None ---> BCM
Ok None ---> EPS
P3195 000B EV/HEV CAN Error EVC-272
U1000 000B EV/HEV CAN Comm Circuit
Ok None ---> HVAC
Ok None ---> HV BATTERY
Ok None ---> IPDM E/R
Ok None ---> METER
Ok None ---> MOTOR CONTROL
Ok None ---> SHIFT
This morning backing out of the garage I had low brake pedal, no power assist, and red and yellow brake warning lights on the dash. LeafSpy showed the exact DTC codes noted by Ninjarider1978. I suspected low battery voltage because both ABS and EV/HEV error areas included "CAN Comm Circuit".

What was unusual is that, wanting to charge (level 2) for an hour at 9:30 last night, I set the charge end timer for 10:30 PM and plugged in. Usually, I'd have set the charge start time to 6 AM and charge end time to 7 AM if I wanted to charge for an hour. The car was plugged in and not charging for 10 hours until 8:30 this morning.
What was not unusual was the OBDII dongle plugged in, as it has been 24x7 for the year and half I've had the car.
I suspect the first or both of these circumstances brought the 12V battery voltage too low this morning.

The ABS DTCs wouldn't clear, so I disconnected the 12V for about 10 minutes. After reconnecting, the DTCs cleared, the dashboard warning lights have remained off, and the brakes have worked normally.

It was one of the colder mornings so far this fall, but at 59 F, not all that cold.
 
Add my car to the list. Dealer wants $4600 to replace brake controller and abs unit. I doubled my odds of brake failure by having a fleetcarma and obd2 bluetooth device connected at the same time with a y splitter cable. Waiting to hear back from Nissan owner services to see if they will help cover some of the bill.

My video
[youtube]https://youtu.be/KH5dlxDW-mk[/youtube]

https://flipthefleet.org/2018/leaf-brakes-failures/

https://flipthefleet.org/2018/update-17-dec-2018-leaf-brake-faults/

https://flipthefleet.org/2019/nissan-advise-not-to-use-aftermarket-obd2-devices/
 
Hi all, I just had experienced this issue as well. My first sign was when backing out of my driveway and the brake pedal went to the floor. Pedal seemed to return quickly. The next time I went to drive the car (a day later), the pedal went to the floor and the car wouldn't shift out of gear (complete startup). I tested the 12 volt battery and found it to be sitting at 10 volts. After externally charging the 12 volt battery for a few hours, the brake pedal returned and I was able to start the vehicle. I've since replaced the original 12 volt battery and all seems well.

I did contact Nissan Electric about the issue and the rep I spoke with stated that it could be covered under the power train warranty when I explained what I had found regarding a possible failed brake actuator. She also stated that if it wasn't covered under the powertrain warranty that's about to expire that "goodwill" could be requested to help with paying for it. I found her offering goodwill refreshing in that seemingly most automakers don't offer that option on the first inquiry.

I will log my issue as suggested.

Thanks,

Mark
 
I had this exact same phenomenon with a 2017 30 kWh Leaf, which was supposedly not part of the recall. It was towed to the dealer, which said the problem did not manifest the next morning. So perhaps it was the same issue, cold-related, though the temp was only about 45F.
 
I have also had this exact issue on my 2016 Nissan Leaf 30kw tekna. The problem has almost caused three accidents now and each time I take it to the dealership I simply get 'we cant fix the car if we cant replicate the problem'. Nissan Customer services have been as equally useless and keep telling me the same thing.
After reading extensively on this forum I understand that a 12v in bad health can cause boot up issues . I saw more issues with my car during lockdown as I was just driving to the supermarket 10 mins away once or twice a week. Is it possible that the car did not have enough time to charge up the 12v again during those short journeys and the parasitic drain zapped the 12v while the car was stationary? Is it worthwhile just turning the car on for half an hour per day to charge the 12v via DC-DC convertor or better to remove the battery and charge it in my flat. (i dont have a garage to use a trickle charger). Is it also true that making sure the climate control is on during journeys will boost the voltage going through the 12v and therefore charge it?
I have taken the car to an independent specialist and he has also found no faults with the car but he is changing the brake fluid - i'm a bit sceptical about this but its worth a try.
Has anyone had the intelligent braking control unit replaced in order to fix this issue? Apparently a new one costs £3000 so I would be incredibly reluctant to do this if I can avoid the situation and just keep an eye on the 12v.
This issue is causing me a ton of stress as my partner is expecting a baby in October and i'll obviously need a car when the time comes.
At the moment, its looking like I will have to sell up for a huge loss to a brokerage who buys faulty vehicles.
Any help would be hugely appreciated.
Mark
 
I had this happen today. Drove 10-15 minutes to a store, shopped for 10-15 minutes, then upon starting I had very little brakes. Pedal went nearly to the floor, and when the brakes did finally engage, it was abrupt and noisy (clicking/whirring/bumping sounds). Battery voltage seemed okay (12V-13V resting, 14V+ under charge). Plus I have a LiFePO4 battery, which is supposed to help with the Leaf 'undercharging' problem. It was somewhat cold: we had a bit of snow last night, and just before that a lot of rain, and on a short drive during heavy rain, I drove through some large puddles, creating lots of spray. I just mention that as something could have gotten wet? But then I would expect the failure to not wait until the next day.

FsrconS.png


I had the car towed to a nearby dealer. Having read this thread since then, I may have been able to get it home and try a few things. I suppose if the LiFePO4 battery is failing, that could explain it, but as mentioned, voltages look good (on a cigarette lighter voltmeter). I get that a 12V battery load test is more telling of battery failure, but I wasn't in a position to do that test. The dealer might do that; we'll see what they say tomorrow. I have been getting intermittent Air Bag dash icons and DTCs (B00A0 0008 AIR BAG is still showing above), and those have also been blamed on 12V battery problems, so maybe that's it. And that seemed to start a few weeks back when it was very cold for a couple of days (below freezing).
 
but as mentioned, voltages look good (on a cigarette lighter voltmeter)

The lighter socket is only hot when the car is on, so in Ready mode you'd get normal voltage because of the DC-DC converter. Try it in Accessory mode - briefly!
 
LeftieBiker said:
but as mentioned, voltages look good (on a cigarette lighter voltmeter)

The lighter socket is only hot when the car is on, so in Ready mode you'd get normal voltage because of the DC-DC converter. Try it in Accessory mode - briefly!
Right . . . I did cycle through the modes at one point, and that's when I saw the lower voltages I mentioned (in the 12.x-volt range). Once in Ready Mode, I saw 14.x volts, which of course would mask any 12V battery problem.

I forgot to mention that I went under the hood, and saw a normal brake fluid level, and nothing obviously leaking/loose/broken/missing around either of the master cylinder or the ABS distribution block (on the passenger side of firewall, with the handful of hard brake lines connected to it).

EDIT: Also the ABS, brakes (?), and stability control icons on the dash were lit (yellow):
25xjf7f.png

But not the Tire Pressure icon (and not my picture, just borrowed from one of the videos posted earlier in this thread).
 
IIRC, the issue is condensation in the brake booster freezing, and the fix (?) was to keep cycling the booster often, by means of a programming patch, in sub-freezing weather. Sounds like a pretty crappy fix to me, though...
 
All of the CAN Bus communication errors shown in the Leaf Spy screenshot of DTC's along with the brake symptoms described are strongly indicative of a weak 12V battery during starting (boot up) of the car. Once the 12V battery issue is addressed and DTC's are cleared, the braking, stability control, and ABS should function normally. It may take several attempts to clear DTC's along with disconnecting/reconnecting 12V battery several times to clear all of the communication fault codes and restore normal operation.
 
Since the brakes are hydraulic isn't there some kind of fail safe mechanism in place so that even without the brake booster the brakes will still work, at least like non-power brakes?
 
Thanks for everyone's help. I called the dealer and they're just finalizing the estimate (waiting on a price for part of it). Talk of Intelligent Braking Modules and wiring harnesses needing to be replaced, due to some 'mysterious miscommunication' on the CANBUS. I don't have the number yet, but I'm sensing over $1,000 in this estimate.

I'll be bringing my LeafSpy Pro and dongle, and (at least) a 10mm wrench (to allow battery disconnection). I'm thinking of adding a battery switch at some point, to remove the need for a wrench in the future. I'll be trying the DTC Reset process in combination with battery disconnection (repeatedly if necessary) to get this resolved. My understanding from the forgoing discussion is that if you can get past bootup with none of these problems, you're safe to drive (as in, the problem won't manifest in the middle of the drive).
 
bobkart said:
Thanks for everyone's help. I called the dealer and they're just finalizing the estimate (waiting on a price for part of it). Talk of Intelligent Braking Modules and wiring harnesses needing to be replaced, due to some 'mysterious miscommunication' on the CANBUS. I don't have the number yet, but I'm sensing over $1,000 in this estimate.

I'll be bringing my LeafSpy Pro and dongle, and (at least) a 10mm wrench (to allow battery disconnection). I'm thinking of adding a battery switch at some point, to remove the need for a wrench. I'll be trying the DTC Reset process in combination with battery disconnection (repeatedly if necessary) to get this resolved. My understanding from the forgoing discussion is that if you can get past bootup with none of these problems, you're safe to drive (as in, the problem won't manifest in the middle of the drive).

I had problem very similar to yours on a 2015 Leaf. See below the parts replaced and their cost I have found by part number on the web.
Hopfully, parts and labor passed on warranty in my case.

DTC U1000
DTC U110D
DTC P3195
DTC U1008

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1wsvIb2jQROUypMBkZ5hOEvQ3TiEn0wQU/view?usp=sharing

Good luck!
 
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