johnlocke said:Apr update. 309 GID's 67.61 AH, SOH=85.06%, Hx=62.97%, 77856 total mi. 32927 mi on new battery. 20 DCFC and 635 l2 charges on the new battery. Battery took a big hit last month despite not driving much for the last couple of weeks. It still looks like it will last longer than the 100,000 mile warranty limit but it won't be very capable. I still I'm looking forward to Tesla's battery day announcements. The ID3 is mired in software problems so the ID4 is looking iffy at this point although VW claims that it will ship in 2021. GM is still talking big but most of what they're selling at this point is sizzle rather than steak. It seems more likely that I'll see the Cybertruck before either GM or Ford get their trucks out. The Model 3 or a Y looks like the best bet right now.
johnlocke said:Mar update. 314 GID's 68.73 AH, SOH=86.47%, Hx=65.70%, 76636 total mi. 31707 mi on new battery. 20 DCFC and 610 l2 charges on the new battery. The battery is continuing to slowly degrade. Even in a cool wet Feb, I still lost 2 more GID's. I'm down about 13.5% from new. 21 months in, the old battery was down to 262 GID's, so the new battery is doing much better. The difference is notable and I expect to hit the 100K warranty limit well before the new battery would qualify for replacement. I'm still still expecting to be down about 25% at 100K. I expect that as the weather warms up deterioration will accelerate again. I'm looking forward to Tesla's battery day announcements. The ID3 is mired in software problems so the ID4 is looking iffy at this point although VW claims that it will ship in 2021. GM is talking big but most of what they're selling at this point is sizzle rather than steak.
On another note, is anyone still interested in my experience with battery deterioration? Should I continue to do these updates or let the thread die?
Expect to get a new battery around 50000-60000 miles assuming Nissan is still in business. I expect that Nissan will have to replace most of those 30KWH batteries under warranty. If you are lucky, Nissan will upgrade you to the 40KWH battery like they do in the US now. It is a nice car except for the battery. I will say that 1674 L2 charges in 34000 miles is excessive and likely why the battery is down so far. Sounds like the original owner charged it every night whether it needed it or not and probably to 100% to boot.tomhanman said:Hello John,
I just thought I'd post a reply to say, yes please keep going, because I've recently purchased a used Leaf 30 in France. I had the bms update done at purchase because the car was down at 66% SOC (my thanks go to the Leafspy team for allowing me to see more info than the garage could). That was two months ago, now after the update and 900 miles I seem to have pretty similar battery state to you so it might be interesting to compare evolution (although I'm not driving much at the mo).
The day I collected it 28 Feb 2020:
??? GIDs 67.72Ah SOH=85.20% Hx=64.03% 54,405kms (33,805miles) 19 DCFC and 1625 L1/L2
Today:
303 GIDs 66.35Ah SOH=83.48% Hx=61.11% 55,850kms (34,703miles) 19 DCFC and 1674 L1/L2
First registered 31 Dec 2015 so I have until the end of 2023 (about another 1335days), if the warranty and Nissan are solid!
I consider the loss of 1.7% SOH in 50 days of gentle temperatures and gentle driving to be pretty outrageous, I expected that kind of loss per year! I charge a little bit at my workshop slowly (from my solar install) whenever I'm there, so SOC usually isn't near 100 nor near LBW. If this is how the battery behaves in ideal conditions, well, yikes.
If it continues at this rate then I would expect to be at 66% SOH by September of 2021. I'll start looking for the Nissan warranty contact details...
Keep it up,
Regards,
Tom.
johnlocke said:June update. 304 GID's 67.18 AH, SOH=84.52%, Hx=62.11%, 79144 total mi. 34215 mi on new battery. 21 DCFC and 665 l2 charges on the new battery. Battery is averaging .7%/mo loss over 23 months. Significantly better than the original battery but still I'll be lucky to get 75000 mi. out of it. That would be driving it down to a 4 bar loss and a sixty mi range. On the other hand, I'm down to driving less than 600 mi/mo with the Covid thing. Still expecting to get something else after I hit 100K. The Model Y is in the lead now but I'd like to have more choices. GM and Ford look to be out of the running (neither has actually started production) and the VW bunch is having big-time software problems and they can't seem to get away from DieselGate which still could cost them billions. I like the ID 4 a lot and the cost with Federal and state incentives could bring the cost down to under $30K which would make it competitive against a Tesla Model 3. I'd also like to see a single motor Y with the larger battery @ $44K or thereabouts. The Koreans could surprise me as well. The Cybertruck is an outside shot but I don't see it showing up until late 2021 or 2022 and I'd have to convince myself that I would want to drive a full size truck all the time. I've done that before and parking is such a pain plus climbing in and out. Maybe if the air suspension automatically lowers itself in park?
johnlocke said:Just started intermittently losing the first bar at 85.4%. Last time this went on for a couple of months before losing it permanently.
I'm expecting to get another 20K-30K mi before I trade it in for something else, so figure 1-2 years. I expect to be down to about 75% at 100K and it gets harder to get a full day's use without a charge up in town. At $70K I can't afford a dual motor with the 500 mi range just to tow a horse trailer 3-4 times a year. $50K for the 300 mi version might work if the ride is nice enough and I get room for 3 adults and 2 large dogs. The size is an issue though and it would have to replace both my Leaf and the 15 year old Tundra. I live on a farm and need a truck for hauling supplies and lumber.Oils4AsphaultOnly said:johnlocke said:June update. 304 GID's 67.18 AH, SOH=84.52%, Hx=62.11%, 79144 total mi. 34215 mi on new battery. 21 DCFC and 665 l2 charges on the new battery. Battery is averaging .7%/mo loss over 23 months. Significantly better than the original battery but still I'll be lucky to get 75000 mi. out of it. That would be driving it down to a 4 bar loss and a sixty mi range. On the other hand, I'm down to driving less than 600 mi/mo with the Covid thing. Still expecting to get something else after I hit 100K. The Model Y is in the lead now but I'd like to have more choices. GM and Ford look to be out of the running (neither has actually started production) and the VW bunch is having big-time software problems and they can't seem to get away from DieselGate which still could cost them billions. I like the ID 4 a lot and the cost with Federal and state incentives could bring the cost down to under $30K which would make it competitive against a Tesla Model 3. I'd also like to see a single motor Y with the larger battery @ $44K or thereabouts. The Koreans could surprise me as well. The Cybertruck is an outside shot but I don't see it showing up until late 2021 or 2022 and I'd have to convince myself that I would want to drive a full size truck all the time. I've done that before and parking is such a pain plus climbing in and out. Maybe if the air suspension automatically lowers itself in park?
Thanks for the updates!
At the current rate of degradation, how long do you think you have before you'll be forced into a new vehicle? 3 years? 5 years? Sounds like either situation should still net you plenty of options. I have a cybertruck reservation myself, but it will replace my model 3. Am apprehensive about driving a full-size truck, but the 500 mile range is just way too tempting as a family road trip vehicle!
Sorry about that. Fumble fingers. I have corrected the entry.tomhanman said:johnlocke said:Just started intermittently losing the first bar at 85.4%. Last time this went on for a couple of months before losing it permanently.
Hi John, you gave SOH=84.52% in your last update, so did you mean to write that you were losing your first bar at 84.5%?
Sorry to hear it, but as you know better than most it is inevitable. Just for info my first bar went at just under 85% but was never intermittent, I wonder if that is a mod in the firmware update that I have.
I'll post my figures later in the day.
Take care.
I've gone back and reread your posts. If I were you, I'd run the battery down to 40% and charge it back up to 80% rather then a couple of small charges every day. Also charge it up to 100% once a month and run it down to about 20% to exercise the battery and BMS. Fast charging sometimes seems to help re-calibrate the BMS as well. I have Solar PV here at the house so charging at home is always preferable but sometimes I need a bit extra to get home safely. 10 minutes at a fast charger or a half hour at an l2 charger usually enough.tomhanman said:Hi John and all,
I'm going to post results that are completely the opposite of those above...
July update. 309 GID's 67.58AH, SOH=85.03%, Hx=63.71%, 59951km (37251 miles).
So that is a significant improvement in every aspect of battery health, that I cannot understand or explain.
I have been using the car just as before, except to add in a holiday trip this weekend just gone where each way was about 200 miles and involved two quick charges. On the way I had the battery temp gauge right to the top (not the red bars) as I drove at 80mph for basically the full charge, in-between two fast charges.
So it was pretty intense, and I would have thought quite bad for the battery, quite the opposite to the way I generally try and nanny the thing. But it seemed to really enjoy it!
If the battery stays like this for a few weeks I could get my 12th bar back, 4 months after losing it. Now that doesn't really mean anything, but I never thought it would happen by hammering the car!
I look forward to the car gaining 200miles of range and autonomous driving next month if I treat it badly enough!
Regards.
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