2016 30 kWh Battery data

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Like Leftiebiker said the only way is if it has had the update.

But don't do what Goldbrick said...

Nissan is not Tesla... Their update system is totally manual and totally susceptible to human error. If some garage tried to apply the update in the past, before you bought it, but they did not follow the procedure correctly, the update was not uploaded to the car, but the mechanic didn't realise and ticked the box on the Nissan database to say that the job had been completed, then when the dealership enters the vin into that database it says the update is not required.

We assume the car as manufactured is eligible. So use leafspypro to check the ECU version numbers and screen grab to so show the garage (they can't do that).

Then show them the tech update paperwork which I have posted somewhere on this forum which refers to the different versions of software on which it applies.

If you are sure the software version shown is the non-updated version then insist that they ignore their database and connect to the car to apply the update.

But incidentally if you have all the bars showing on the dashboard, I expect you have indeed had the update. Post your leafspy software versions screen grab here. And we'll take a look.

Tom.
 
August update. 302 GID's 66.02 AH, SOH=83.07%, Hx=59.70%, 80550 total mi. 35629 mi on new battery. 22 DCFC and 702 l2 charges on the new battery. Even though I'm driving less, the battery is still deteriorating fairly rapidly in the hot weather. I lost another 4 GID's this month despite only driving about 750 miles. It's not as bad as the old battery in hot weather but it still shows up as higher losses during hot weather. As a comparison, after 25 months, the old battery was down to 68% vs 83% for the new one. I can probably get another year out of this battery before it becomes a real problem to drive. If the battery continues to fail at this rate and my driving continues to be light, I might manage to get a new battery before I hit 100K. It seems more likely that I hit 100K at about 70% SOH and no new battery for me.
 
Sept 1 update. 300 GID's, SOH=82.60%, Hx=58.93%. 81286 total miles, 36357 miles on new battery, 136 L3 total, 22 on new battery, 1595 l2 total, 721 on new battery. I'm driving a lot less now so wear and tear on the battery is less but it's still losing power at about the same rate per mile as before. It still looks like I won't hit the 4 bar down mark before the 100K warranty limit. At the current rate, I'll get 70K out of this battery before it hits 8 bars. That would put me at about 115000 miles overall. I'll probably trade it in sometime next year. Tesla is in the lead as a replacement but I'd like to look at the ID4 before I make up my mind. State and Federal tax credits on the ID4 that I don't get with a Tesla could make a difference. If Congress were to extend the federal credit to Tesla as well, that would make a big difference as well.
 
Hey John, and anyone else around.

I just left mine plugged in for a couple of days so that it could do any balancing that it fancied, came back to it and found a totally unbalanced battery showing horrible stats!

299 GID's, SOH=82.20%, Hx=58.98%. 62,800kms (39022miles), 39 QC, 1787 l2.

So I've had it 6 months, done 8000kms (5000miles) and seem to have lost 3% battery health (although the figures do jump about somewhat).

If that were to continue then I could do another 43,000kms (27,000miles) before arriving at 66% which I think is about when the fourth bar might go to paradise. This would take me to 105,808kms (66,000miles) still well inside warranty. On the timeframe mesure, it looks like 32.25 months or 2 years 8.25 months which would take me to about the middle of May 2023... and the warranty expires end of December 2023. So that is quite tight.

Specifically I believe the battery health has to remain below 66.25% for a full month before the fourth bar will go, and given how the measurements vary I think it could be touch and go, especially if degradation slows though the winter months.

Oh, and just my two cents worth; please don't reward VW for being the biggest fattest liars in the world, on an issue that actually concerns us all directly, by buying an electric car from them. They clearly don't care about saving the world, so they should be the first to suffer the consequences!!

I am stunned on a daily basis how many brand new VWs I see driving about here (France), its not like they're any better than any other of mundane brand offerings of the moment, but nobody cares, not a jot. The caché associated with owning a VW doesn't seem to have been affected in the slightest, unbelievable. And their perceived market is upmarket educated yuppies with children or indeed grandchildren... the kind of people who are supposed to think before they act, not try to go one up on the family chevy next door. Its a sad world.

See you next month, if we're still here.
 
I just left mine plugged in for a couple of days so that it could do any balancing that it fancied, came back to it and found a totally unbalanced battery showing horrible stats!

Unlike some smaller EVs, when you leave a Leaf or other electric car plugged in, it will charge to 100%, doing any balancing while nearing 100%, then shut down. Unless you have a charge timer set to restart charging every day, it will not do any more charging OR balancing. Many Leafs will, in fact, drain their 12 volt accessory batteries if left plugged in for days, because they don't charge those batteries while plugged in and not charging, but they do draw power from them to periodically verify that the charging cable is connected. I suggest that you not do that again, and that you take a long drive with the climate control on low, or just leave it in Ready mode for an hour, also with climate control on low. You can also top off the 12 volt battery using an external charger.

The amount of balancing that the Leaf BMS can do is fairly limited.
 
tomhanman said:
Hey John, and anyone else around.

I just left mine plugged in for a couple of days so that it could do any balancing that it fancied, came back to it and found a totally unbalanced battery showing horrible stats!

299 GID's, SOH=82.20%, Hx=58.98%. 62,800kms (39022miles), 39 QC, 1787 l2.

So I've had it 6 months, done 8000kms (5000miles) and seem to have lost 3% battery health (although the figures do jump about somewhat).

If that were to continue then I could do another 43,000kms (27,000miles) before arriving at 66% which I think is about when the fourth bar might go to paradise. This would take me to 105,808kms (66,000miles) still well inside warranty. On the timeframe mesure, it looks like 32.25 months or 2 years 8.25 months which would take me to about the middle of May 2023... and the warranty expires end of December 2023. So that is quite tight.

Specifically I believe the battery health has to remain below 66.25% for a full month before the fourth bar will go, and given how the measurements vary I think it could be touch and go, especially if degradation slows though the winter months.

Oh, and just my two cents worth; please don't reward VW for being the biggest fattest liars in the world, on an issue that actually concerns us all directly, by buying an electric car from them. They clearly don't care about saving the world, so they should be the first to suffer the consequences!!

I am stunned on a daily basis how many brand new VWs I see driving about here (France), its not like they're any better than any other of mundane brand offerings of the moment, but nobody cares, not a jot. The caché associated with owning a VW doesn't seem to have been affected in the slightest, unbelievable. And their perceived market is upmarket educated yuppies with children or indeed grandchildren... the kind of people who are supposed to think before they act, not try to go one up on the family chevy next door. Its a sad world.

See you next month, if we're still here.

Now that you have discovered the folly AKA top end balancing, hoping you have learned your lesson. Treat your new battery kindly and remember; just because you can doesnt mean you should charge to 100% SOC. Doing so only when you need it only pushes usability farther up the calendar.
 
Thanks Leftiebiker for that. Yes, I am aware of the 12v battery woes of others, but mine is just fine, is the original and still shows good capacity... Unlike the lithium ion one under the floor!

I know the balancing is limited, but I have seen the battery perfectly balanced previously, it's more like it didn't bother doing a balance at all, which is annoying as I don't often take it to full, shame to east the occasion that's all.

Dave, I don't have a new battery, John does. I am gentle with my old one, as I mentioned above it is annoying that the balance has not been done as I very rarely take it to 100. But one does have to be able to use the damn thing, so it has to get charged.
 
Oct 1 update. 296 GID's, SOH=81.47%, Hx=58.93%. 82188 total miles, 37259 miles on new battery, 1143 L3 total, 29 on new battery, 1617 l2 total, 743 on new battery. I'm driving a lot less now so wear and tear on the battery is less but it's still losing power at about the same rate per mile as before. It still looks like I won't hit the 4 bar down mark before the 100K warranty limit. At the current rate, I'll get 70K out of this battery before it hits 8 bars. That would put me at about 115000 miles overall. I'll trade it in next year. Tesla is in the lead as a replacement but I'd like to look at the ID4 before I make up my mind. State and Federal tax credits on the ID4 that I don't get with a Tesla could make a difference. If Congress were to extend the federal credit to Tesla as well, that would make a big difference as well.

If I could get the Model 3 Standard Range + with LiFePo battery like the new Chinese version, that would be ideal. With a battery life of 4000+ cycles, I wouldn't need to worry about degradation or range loss. In that case, 250 mi range would be more than adequate. You could put 250000 miles on it before noticing any loss of range. If the Chinese Model 3 is any indication, you could cut the price by a couple of thousand dollars as well. $35000 model 3, anyone?
 
ID4 with 3 years free power, and potential price post incentives in the mid 20s sounds pretty appealing. Form factor is nice too.

Non-Tesla fast charging is popping up around the country at an accerating rate.


2021 is going to be a crazy year for EVs, even here in the US.
 
DougWantsALeaf said:
ID4 with 3 years free power, and potential price post incentives in the mid 20s sounds pretty appealing. Form factor is nice too.

Non-Tesla fast charging is popping up around the country at an accerating rate.


2021 is going to be a crazy year for EVs, even here in the US.

I see a product with limited availability with minimal manufacturer's discount for at least a year if not more. Pictures are nice but if the flesh and blood doesn't make a greater impression on me, I will have to pass despite being in a position where I would have 100% free fuel for the entire 3 years.
 
Hi all,

Firstly, thank you for the abundance of the information that can be found here in the forum! Sorry if I put this question in the wrong topic...

Recently, I became an owner of a Nissan Leaf 2016 Tekna. The car is well preserved as it was driven only sporadically (in total it has travelled less than 7000 km). Then, I started looking on the internet and this forum for the information. Also, I used Leaf Spy Pro to measure info about the car during the last month.

Now, if I am reading Leaf Spy Pro output correctly (TripChrgLog_*.csv file), the info says that the battery capacity seems to be dropping quite significantly (1.4% in 100 km, measured in 18 days during this October 2020):

soh_vs_distance.png


Also, I have made a screenshot of the ECU software versions:

ecu_versions.jpg


The dashboard shows 11/12 battery capacity lines.

My question is: is this normal and do these software versions or the battery warrant updates or replacements? Do I need to make any other proof before asking Nissan or my local garage for an update? The car was bought in Austria but I live in Croatia (both are EU countries).

Thanks in advance for your suggestions.
 
The version number of 'HV BATTERY' which is 4NR4A seems to indicate that the car hasn't had the update done yet. The only definitive information I could find is for the US and it doesn't list 4NR4A as one of the affected firmware revisions but other sources say the important datum is the last letter. 'A' or 'B' indicate the update is required and 'C' indicates the update has been done.

I'd take it to a dealer and have them look it up. It will be required before any battery warranty is done anyway and the update should be free.
 
heres my data on my 2016 30kw

330 GIDS
SOh 92.48%
Hx 77.92%
97,000 km (60273 Miles)
67 QC's
2070 L1/L2

my battery seems to be holding up well
 
goldbrick said:
The version number of 'HV BATTERY' which is 4NR4A seems to indicate that the car hasn't had the update done yet. The only definitive information I could find is for the US and it doesn't list 4NR4A as one of the affected firmware revisions but other sources say the important datum is the last letter. 'A' or 'B' indicate the update is required and 'C' indicates the update has been done.

I'd take it to a dealer and have them look it up. It will be required before any battery warranty is done anyway and the update should be free.

Thanks a lot - I will contact the local dealer and have them look it up. In the meantime, I am constantly gathering data from LeafSpy Pro to get all the info I can on the degradation.
 
Nov 1 update. 290 GID's, SOH=79.75%, Hx=58.93%. 82987 total miles, 38058 miles on new battery, 145 L3 total, 31 on new battery, 1635 l2 total, 761 on new battery. I'm driving a lot less now so wear and tear on the battery is less but it's still losing power at about the same rate per mile as before. I lost 6 GID's last month even with less driving. It still looks like I won't hit the 4 bar down mark before the 100K warranty limit. Despite the tax incentives and new battery, I just can't see buying another Nissan. Their attitude toward the Leaf and the lack of support regarding battery replacement have soured me on the brand. Tesla is still in the lead and if Biden wins the election and reinstates the EV tax credit for American auto manufacturers, that would make it a slam dunk for me. Volkswagen is still in the running with the current regulations and tax breaks but the ID4 doesn't seem compelling compared to a Model 3.
 
Hi all sorry I missed a month.

I did a 600km in a day journey in my 2016 30kWh a week ago. The battery got hot (first red bar) but it worked. Left home fully charged at 8am tyres pumped up and new oil in the transfer box. Stopped for four DC quick charges, about every 130kms at 110kmh (on the dial) and got home with about 15% remaining at just before 8pm! Took a long time, wouldn't buy the car to do that every day, but as I don't do that every day I am pretty happy.

Plus, as happened last time I used DC chargers intensively, it doesn't seem to have had an adverse effect on the battery...

Nov 13 update. 298 GID's, SOH=81.95%, Hx=58.56%. 65563kms (40,740 miles) 50qc, 1816 L1/l2 total.

1 gid lost in 2.5 months 1600 miles.

Don't buy a VW just because the government wants to appease the German giant after it lied to us for years... Hold on doesn't that sound familiar?

Good luck everyone, I've just realised it's Friday the 13th 😱
 
Dec 1 update. 285 GID's, SOH=78.76%, Hx=52.48%. 83654 total miles, 38725 miles on new battery, 145 L3 total, 31 on new battery, 1654 l2 total, 780 on new battery. I'm driving a lot less now so wear and tear on the battery is less but it's still losing power at about the same rate per month as before. I lost 5 GID's last month even with less driving. It's possible that I will hit 4 bars down before the100K warranty limit. If it continues at the same rate, I'll hit 8 bars at around 94,000 miles. That would give about 50,000 miles on the second battery. If I got a third battery before the warranty expires and it was a 40KWH unit, I might keep the Leaf for a couple more years. Otherwise I'll probably trade it in. It may depend on whether or not the new administration puts new tax credits in place for USA built EV's. It may be a matter of just getting a longer range EV. I don't notice it so much on a daily basis but we were evacuated during the last fire for a week and the problem with daily charging was painfully evident. Also as I lose range on the Leaf, keeping it charged in case I have to make an unexpected trip becomes a requirement. Although the 40KWH would help a lot, It's not enough to fully solve the problem and I still worry about the degradation of the battery over time.
 
Jan 1, 2021 update. 285 GID's, SOH=78.52%, Hx=52.10%. 84146 total miles, 39217 miles on new battery, 145 L3 total, 31 on new battery, 1668 l2 total, 794 on new battery. I'm still not driving a lot these days. No real change in the battery this month, It is cool and mostly dry here which is easy on the battery. It is still iffy that the battery will lose 4 bars before the warranty expires. Most likely is that it will lose the second bar shortly and most likely the third before the warranty expires but the fourth won't drop in time. At this point I'm waiting to see what Biden does with domestic EV credits. The ID4 doesn't look like it will work as well a Tesla 3 or Y for me but the $7500 tax incentive is tempting. If I could get something similar on a Tesla, that would tip the scales to the Tesla. No matter how cheaply I could buy a Leaf right now, I don't trust Nissan to stand behind the car nor have they addressed the battery problem. The Aryia will address that issue but it won't be available till late this year or the beginning of next year and I still don't trust Nissan.
 
298 gids
82.05% SOH
58.74% Hx
65.21 AHr
67,354 km (41,851 miles)
54 QC 1844 L1/L2

That all sounds great, no gids lost and capacity supposedly slightly increased, but with recent sub zero temperatures the range has been reduced from about 150kms to nearer 115. And that is with the heat pump! Bring on spring.

Nissan, sadly, are probably best avoided going forward. But there are a lot more options coming online, it's no longer a choice between Vdevil and the Muskrat!
 
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