Leaf won’t start or charge - 12v is good

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Kevin

Member
Joined
Jan 5, 2021
Messages
8
Yesterday i got to my leaf and the car wouldn’t start. So I contacted a local enthusiast and he recommended i charge my 12v, so i did. To my surprise it started right away but as soon as i shut it down to charge it wouldn’t and also wouldn’t restart again. I have checked and my 12v is in excellent condition.

When i pull up some codes on leafspy i was shown the following:

P31E7 00C0 EV/HEV Restart Inhibition EVC-310
P0AA6 00C0 EV/HEV Hybrid Batt Volt Sys Isolation EVC-157


My car is a gen 1 2011 24kwh leaf

It would be of great help to me if I could get this sorted, thank you.
 
There is some indication that there are one or more bad cells in the main battery. You will of course need to verify that. I'm sorry.

I see that you've already posted in another existing topic that is very similar. One of the mods will probably move this post there. I'll leave it up for the morning, anyway.
 
I’m not sure when i got the car it didn’t have any dead cells but after a while of having it, I checked on the leafspy and saw two dead cells
 
Cells shown in red on LeafSpy are just balancing, not dead. A dead cell would have no graph line above it, and you likely wouldn't be able to drive the car with 2 dead cells.
 
ahh, I understand. right now I have sent it to a local leaf mechanic and he is suspicious of the PDM because the car will not accept charging. I'm still a bit worried as he has never seen a case like this.
 
Kevin said:
Yesterday i got to my leaf and the car wouldn’t start. So I contacted a local enthusiast and he recommended i charge my 12v, so i did. To my surprise it started right away but as soon as i shut it down to charge it wouldn’t and also wouldn’t restart again. I have checked and my 12v is in excellent condition.

What is the age of your aux battery; what was your charging procedure; what test data do you have as evidence that it is in "excellent" condition? Seen this too many times to just gloss over the root cause.
 
I don’t have that much data but i put a brand new battery in it and it stayed the same. I also tried batteries from my other cars that could fit into the leaf with a similar capacity but same results
 
A voltmeter and good quality 12V charger are worth having in your tool kit. The laef is known to be poor at keeping the aux battery fully charged and desulfation with an external charger is necessary if the car sits unused for a week. New batteries from the auto parts stores need to be desultate-charged also--no telling how long it sat on the shelf. Without even some basic voltage measurements it is just blind troubleshooting.
 
That's great news, glad you solved the problem and got it working again.

Was the replaced module determined to be bad due to having lower voltage than all the other modules, or did it exhibit failed insulation resistance, e.g. you could read a voltage between the module terminals and it's case? This would help us in troubleshooting the P0AA6 DTC in other cars.
 
Yes according to my mechanic it had a much lower voltage than the other cells that’s why it had to be replaced. I have no idea how he read the voltage or which module was replaced. The mechanic seems to say a different thing everytime.
 
Kevin said:
I have sorted the issue i had to replace one battery module and it works fine now

Where is the technician located if you don't mind me asking? Looking for options--so far I cannot get Nissan to recognize I have a warranty issue with a bad cell on my 2013.
 
If the car is OFF and your 12V battery measures over 13 volts at the poles, then the HV is not switched OFF (13 volt from DC-DC converter). Disconnecting or replacing the perfectly fine 12V can cause a reset and switch the HV off Not always as the system does not go 'dead' without the 12V battery because there is another power supply active (DC-DC).
 
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