make inner tie rod ends replaceable

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coleafrado said:
Thanks again for the advice, all. I've been extraordinarily busy with job applications and haven't had time to respond.

It's possible the broken axle is my fault. I remember asking the tow truck driver to put the car into park (rather than neutral) after he lifted it onto his truck. With the control arm being broken, and the car having been deposited nose-first onto a not-quite-level spot at the dealer, it's entirely possible that the weight of the car on the axle (and motor lock) during the tow and drop-off snapped the axle. Lesson learned for me - get to a shop, or at least a parking space, as soon as you hear funny noises from the suspension.

Here's the current service schedule:

- Lower control arm replacement ($325 labor) and parts ($250, could have been $100 aftermarket) (finished - they had to do this in the parking space as suspension was inoperable)
- Driver side axle removal and replacement ($400 labor) and parts ($80, could have been $850 if I went OEM) (waiting on UPS)
- Steering alignment ($150) (waiting on axle)
- Total with tax: ~$1300.

There's a pretty good chance my battery drops a fourth bar in the next month or two, so I'm holding out for the slight possibility I may get a discounted replacement battery. This has been one of the most forthright dealerships I've been to - nothing at all shady about them, IMO. I've had no complains before and I don't see myself complaining about this repair.

My options for "optimizing cost" amount to a potential $150 savings on parts and maybe $200-300 savings on labor, minus $150-200 cost for a tow. AAA only covers tows to repair shops, not between them. It would be nice to have mechanics for $50/hr around here, but that's just not the reality. The best I could have possibly done is maybe $850 total. $500 just isn't possible unless I do the work myself or buy rusty parts from eBay.

Consider that I was variously quoted circa $3500 for struts & axle & control arm replacements and an alignment. (The struts are fine right now, but I'll replace them in a month or so when I have free time.)


Good luck with your adventure. Please keep up informed and feel free to ask questions....

I am sure that some of us will have honest opinions with your repair questions..
 
The meta-debate is a little unnecessary - take a break, people. No need to break the trend of civility at this point :|
 
Oops...can't delete this post.

powersurge: Sorry you feel I'm continuing to "pick apart your posts." I thought this forum was intended as a place for discussion?

I apologize for labeling your post as a "rant." No "game of tennis" at all, nor a "circus." Simply advising coleafrado that he still has options, since he is currently stuck at the dealer to get what he is entitled to: a fair resolution to his situation.

There are different ways of solving disagreements than giving them the "finger" (in my experience, usually done in anger) or driving away. (based on your text, sounded angry to me!)

Some day, he might need the services of his dealership. There are undoubtedly few options for him in the Boulder region.
 
Car is now fixed and driving. Bill+parts came to about $1100 total - they did a great job.

Driver's side lower control arm and axle replacement plus an alignment sums it up. Lots of tensile damage - control arm ball joint was pulled apart (not fixable) and the axle's bearing box had been pulled apart (internal clip snapped). I'd recommend CARiD for parts although the dealer noted (and I confirmed) that the new axle was marginally shorter than the broken original in its neutral position. Didn't matter particularly much.

As for the creaky MacPherson struts - I'll order them online and have an independent repair shop do the install when I have some free time. If anyone has recommendations in the Boulder area, PM me!
 
I'd recommend CARiD for parts although the dealer noted (and I confirmed) that the new axle was marginally shorter than the broken original in its neutral position. Didn't matter particularly much.

I once ordered a catalytic converter from CARiD for my GF's car and it didn't fit. I couldn't return it because it had been "used" so the shop had to weld it on. Pass.
 
I was able to get an inner tie rod for my 2017 Leaf SV from https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/
I spent hours researching this not sure if I could replace it or not.
The part an exact match from what I took off. Even the grease looked exactly the same. The OEM part I took off had no markings/identifiers on it anywhere I could see. Mine was REALLY bent.
The job took me an hour to do myself. I'm in Denver South.
Took it in for a 4 wheel alignment and the car is now perfect.

Nissan actually shows the part as #48521K but they do NOT sell it. NissanPartsDeal.com showed the same number.

Here is the link to the part:
https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/nissan-socket-kit-tie~48521-3sg1a.html?Make=Nissan&Model=Leaf&Year=2017&Submodel=&Filter=(3=SV;5=30KWH)

I also found Maval® - Remanufactured Manual Rack and Pinion Assembly
https://www.carid.com/2017-nissan-leaf-steering-parts/maval-remanufactured-rack-and-pinion-assembly-1171698093.html
 
DnvrMike said:
I was able to get an inner tie rod for my 2017 Leaf SV from https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/
I spent hours researching this not sure if I could replace it or not.
The part an exact match from what I took off. Even the grease looked exactly the same. The OEM part I took off had no markings/identifiers on it anywhere I could see. Mine was REALLY bent.
The job took me an hour to do myself. I'm in Denver South.
Took it in for a 4 wheel alignment and the car is now perfect.

Nissan actually shows the part as #48521K but they do NOT sell it. NissanPartsDeal.com showed the same number.

Here is the link to the part:
https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/nissan-socket-kit-tie~48521-3sg1a.html?Make=Nissan&Model=Leaf&Year=2017&Submodel=&Filter=(3=SV;5=30KWH)

I also found Maval® - Remanufactured Manual Rack and Pinion Assembly
https://www.carid.com/2017-nissan-leaf-steering-parts/maval-remanufactured-rack-and-pinion-assembly-1171698093.html

Curious: How did you bend it?
 
Deep pothole, six or 7 inches deep at about 20mph. New tire, needed shims in the rear. No rim damage thankfully, factory 17" alloys are tough. All fixed.
 
Possible inner tie rod solution in UK

Whilst searching for an inner tie rod to fit a 2011 Leaf (11 plate), this forum was near the top in a Google search, so having solved the problem I thought I'd share.

I replaced a bent inner tie rod with a Moog part bought from Euro Car Parts. The part details are:

606702007 Moog Inner Tie Rod (Front Left or Right) Nissan Juke 1.5 2012

The old and new were identical; fitted 3 months ago and no problems.
 
coleafrado said:
Consider that I was variously quoted circa $3500 for struts & axle & control arm replacements and an alignment.
This ^^ is the part of your story I cannot get over. I realize that the dealership has since decided that a more modest repair is reasonable but they sure tried to ream you when they thought it possible.

I would probably stay for the repair as you have decided, but I would not be back.
 
Spent an entire day working on this problem. The inner tie rod end part listed at AutoZone, O'Reilly's, NAPA for the 2013 Nissan Leaf is not the correct part. I went to five stores and everyone was very confused when we looked at the part side-by-side with the one recommended in stock. The solution: That Dorman part 543-243 is the correct tie rod end. An easy way to find it: ask for the tie rod end for the Nissan Juke from 2011-2017. Same thing. Bought it Sunday after driving all over Vegas. I the had car up and running in an hour. I actually had a great clerk at NAPA pull every tie rod end from the Altima, Versa, Sentra, Rogue, etc. to compare. BTW the Altima comes very very close but the Juke part is what you want.
 
Yes, the Leaf has some Juke parts, and IIRC, a few Sentra parts. It will also take lighted window switches from the Altima, so I suspect that there are some non-lighted Altima switches in some markets in the world.
 
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