2016 30 kWh Battery data

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tomhanman said:
298 gids
82.05% SOH
58.74% Hx
65.21 AHr
67,354 km (41,851 miles)
54 QC 1844 L1/L2

That all sounds great, no gids lost and capacity supposedly slightly increased, but with recent sub zero temperatures the range has been reduced from about 150kms to nearer 115. And that is with the heat pump! Bring on spring.

Nissan, sadly, are probably best avoided going forward. But there are a lot more options coming online, it's no longer a choice between Vdevil and the Muskrat!

At that pace you will qualify for a warranty exchange. A 40 kwh replacement will likely go a long way towards changing your attitude about Nissan. It should be pretty much obvious the smaller battery packs simply did not fill our needs. Even EVs with TMS like the Focus did not do well. Current battery tech says we need more range than we plan to use. Shallower cycling, lower DC sessions while roadtripping, etc., simply doesn't work with small packs. Even if your needs are modest like 25 miles a day, you should be driving no less than a 150 mile EV. If you make more than 2 longer distance trips a month, then 200 plus should be your target.
 
Feb 1, 2021 update. 283 GID's, SOH=78.42%, Hx=52.10%. 84873 total miles, 39944 miles on new battery, 145 L3 total, 31 on new battery, 1690 l2 total, 816 on new battery. I'm not driving a lot these days, maybe half of what I used to. No real change in the battery this month, It is cool and mostly dry here which is easy on the battery. It is still iffy that the battery will lose 4 bars before the warranty expires. Most likely is that it will lose the second bar shortly and most likely the third before the warranty expires but the fourth won't drop in time. I could look around for a 60KWH battery but I think I would be better off putting that $10K towards a new car instead. If I do get a second replacement battery, that just delays the inevitable. The software and hardware is improving so rapidly that even a 5 year old car is functionally obsolete.
 
Mar 1, 2021 update. 283 GID's, SOH=77.67%, Hx=51.04%. 85436 total miles, 40507 miles on new battery, 145 L3 total, 31 on new battery, 1706 l2 total, 832 on new battery. I only drove about 550 miles last month and the stats have barely changed. I should be losing the second bar anytime now. Between the cool weather and not driving nearly as much, battery degradation has slowed considerably. I've pretty much decided on the Model Y as my next car. Just waiting to see if congress passes a new EV incentive package. The Leaf is becoming harder to manage just due to the excessive battery degradation. I'm down to a 75 mile range currently and any trip i make uses nearly half the battery due to having to come back up the hill coming home. If I could have gotten the 40 KWH battery instead of the 30 KWH when they replaced the original battery, I'd be in much better shape.
 
Apr 1, 2021 update. 281 GID's, SOH=77.43%, Hx=50.33%. 856134 total miles, 41205 miles on new battery, 145 L3 total, 31 on new battery, 1728 total, 854 on new battery. I only drove about 700 miles last month and the stats have barely changed. Still waiting for the next bar to drop. This battery is holding up much better than the first one. I have nearly as many miles on this battery as I did on the first one and I still have about 24 KWH of battery left. At this rate, I'll hit 100,000 miles just before the battery hits the warranty limit. I just found out that the $2000 California CVRP may be ending soon. If so, do I wait and see if they reinstate the Federal rebate or buy now to capture the State rebate before it expires? The Leaf will do for now but It probably won't work for me if Covid restrictions are lifted and we get back to normal. If the battery was replaced under warranty, I could get a couple of more years out of it. If it got the 40 KWH battery as a replacement, I could drive it for as much as 4 more years. With out a warranty replacement though, I'll need a new car by next year at the latest and I might be better off just to bite the bullet now and buy a new car.
 
johnlocke said:
Apr 1, 2021 update. 281 GID's, SOH=77.43%, Hx=50.33%. 856134 total miles, 41205 miles on new battery, 145 L3 total, 31 on new battery, 1728 total, 854 on new battery. I only drove about 700 miles last month and the stats have barely changed. Still waiting for the next bar to drop. This battery is holding up much better than the first one. I have nearly as many miles on this battery as I did on the first one and I still have about 24 KWH of battery left. At this rate, I'll hit 100,000 miles just before the battery hits the warranty limit. I just found out that the $2000 California CVRP may be ending soon. If so, do I wait and see if they reinstate the Federal rebate or buy now to capture the State rebate before it expires? The Leaf will do for now but It probably won't work for me if Covid restrictions are lifted and we get back to normal. If the battery was replaced under warranty, I could get a couple of more years out of it. If it got the 40 KWH battery as a replacement, I could drive it for as much as 4 more years. With out a warranty replacement though, I'll need a new car by next year at the latest and I might be better off just to bite the bullet now and buy a new car.
I'm waiting to see if the Feds renew the EV tax credit for Tesla, and you should too.
If your LEAF wins the 40 kWh pack replacement sweepstakes in the Fall, you will have two nice choices.
 
May 1, 2021 update. 281 GID's, SOH=77.39%, Hx=50.28%. 86870 total miles, 41941 miles on new battery, 145 L3 total, 31 on new battery, 1752 total, 878 on new battery. Finally dropped the second bar. At this rate, i'll hit the third bar at about 97000 mi. So probably no third battery for me. Seems to me that I'll just have to wait for Biden's EV rebate plan to come through and buy a new car then. Tesla is still in the lead but I should have a lot more options by next year. Neither the Volkswagen nor the Mustang seem to be a good fit for me and the M3 SR+ costs less for about the same range and better software. A Model Y is a bit more appealing due to the hatchback and extended range but is more expensive. If I buy the extended range version, Y beats 3 due to the hatchback and only a few thousand dollars more in cost.
 
DougWantsALeaf said:
The 2018+ packs hold up much better in the heat. The 30s were pretty bad.

holding up better, or just big enough that degradation isn't as obvious until enough miles have accumulated? As long as there's no TMS, I wouldn't risk it in areas with extremely hot weather like AZ. Even the lizard packs (although better) had significant degradation in that area.
 
DougWantsALeaf said:
Not tempted with a new Plus for 40% less than an M3 SR+?
Not on a bet! I'm sure a Plus with a 60KWh would hold up for a 100,000 miles and I could probably drive it for 150,000 before the battery died. That said, I could expect 300K out of a M3 plus I would get all the updates to the software. The software is better in the M3 is better to start with. Nissan has failed every time to correct it's failures in the Leaf. I don't expert the Ariya to be any different either.
 
June 6, 2021 update. 279 GID's, SOH=76.73%, Hx=49.79%. 87863 total miles, 42934 miles on new battery, 145 L3 total, 31 on new battery, 1783 l2 total, 902 on new battery. Little late reporting this month and I'm still driving less than 1000 mi/month. That third battery is looking less and less likely. I'm just waiting to see if Congress can get it's act together and pass a new EV incentive. I'm looking more and more at the Y these days even with the price increases. I'd like to do this before the end of the year and that limits my choices.
 
July 5, 2021 update. 278 GID's, SOH=76.65%, Hx=49.05%. 88634 total miles, 43705 miles on new battery, 146 L3 total, 32 on new battery, 1806 l2 total, 932 on new battery. Still late reporting this month and I'm still driving less than 1000 mi/month. That third battery is looking less and less likely. Pricing on the Y keeps increasing bit by bit but it still looks like the best option. Maybe if Giga Texas gets rolling with the mega castings for front and rear frames, we might see a price drop along with shorter delivery timeframes.
 
JTim said:
JTim said:
JTim said:
First battery capacity bar gone, 3/17/17
Cross-posted to: http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=23606

Manufacture date from inside car door is 10/15 *NOT* 2016 as I originally posted

ODO 6,084
AHr=64.97
SOH=81%
Hx=79.63
10 QC / 139 L1/L2

Charging habits: mostly from 20% to 80%, a few to 100%, from memory, 2 QCs in 97-degree temperatures, one or three times car sat more than 4 hours at 100% charge in the heat, and maybe twice (from memory) at 95% charge more than 12 hours (in a garage -- those times I misjudged thinking it would be a busy day, so fully charged ran short errands, car got to 95% at about 3pm, then sat that way until the next morning).

2nd bar lost [10 Battery Capacity Bars Remaining]

11/2/17
ODO 10,367
Ah=54.54 (climbed to 58.25 after driving)
SOH=73%
GIDs=257
HX=72.99
14 QCs, 276 L1/L2 [10 Capacity Bars]

-J.Tim

NOTE: Message at 5/2/19 was incorrect. I did NOT drop to 10 bars at that point, but I have now.

12/28/19 10 Bars

Gids 21
SGids 253
EGids 262
AHr 61.831
SOH 77.82 %
Hx 52.13
L1/L2 599
QC 24

3rd Battery Capacity bar gone
8 July 2021
Gids 9
AHr 57.265
Hx 42.76
SOH 72.05%
L1/L2 769
QC 32

Note that my car sat at 52% for over a month while I was on vacation in a garage (it was close to 5-6% loss traction battery when I returned somewhere around 45% I remember). I feel that had an effect on the loss in the Texas heat.

I swear, after returning after a month of driving gas again, it was like re-learning the car, and remember how incredibly comfortable it is. Nicely done design, Nissan. Now about that battery...?

-J.Tim
 
Your not kidding,.my daughter recently was in a an accident with our S+ (everyone is fine, other driver at fault, though wow 6K damage..for mild front end damage.

They gave us a base Corolla for the rental. I totally forgot how rough a ride an ice is compared to an ev. We will be very happy to have the Leaf back in a week or so.
 
Aug 5, 2021 update. 277 GID's, SOH=76.34%, Hx=49.05%. 89650 total miles, 44721 miles on new battery, 149 L3 total, 35 on new battery, 1836 l2 total, 962 on new battery. Little late reporting this month and I'm driving about 1000 mi/month. Pricing on the Y keeps increasing bit by bit. Maybe if Giga Texas gets rolling with the mega castings for front and rear frames, we might see a price drop along with shorter delivery timeframes.

I have started looking at the Aptera again. It's not in production yet but it would solve several problems for me. The solar panels on board would substantially reduce my SDG&E bill since Aptera would partially recharge during the day and it's much more efficient to begin with. I think I could save about 4000 KWH annually compared to the Leaf. That would mean that I wouldn't need to install any more panels to zero out SDG&E. Since it needs to be parked in the sun, that frees up garage space for a shop. I do wonder about only two seats but most of what I do is by myself or with only one passenger. I still have an Outback that we use for family outings anyway and a Tundra that I use as a farm truck. Cost wise, If the EV rebate ever gets passed, I could be under $20K out the door. Nothing else I've looked at has enough advantages to beat a Y. The ID4 is a contender but it's not much cheaper than a 3+ and I have to wonder about VW's business practices. It currently has rebates available that Tesla doesn't but that could change.

I'd like to wait for 6 mo. or a year but battery degradation is forcing me to charge up out in town a couple of times a week now. I don't know if I can live with the battery problems for that long. A 40KWH replacement under warranty doesn't appear to be in the cards and I'm not going to spend $10K on a battery swap. I'd buy another Leaf instead first but I'd rather buy something else with a proper BMS and active cooling of the battery.
 
Hi John, as your last post was on my birthday I thought I'd chip in.

The Model Y is not alone in getting steadily more expensive, I think that would apply to absolutely everything at the moment. Buckle up for the inflationary nightmare to come.

Anyway when I joined in (ish) it was 18 months ago and my stats when I bought the car in Feb last year were:
??? GIDs 67.72Ah SOH=85.20% Hx=64.03% 54,405kms (33,805miles) 19 DCFC and 1625 L1/L2
When you were at:
314 GIDs 68.73 AH, SOH=86.47%, Hx=65.70%, 31707 mi on new battery. 20 DCFC and 610 l2

Now after 13,135 miles mine are:
??? GIDs 63.62Ah SOH=80.05% Hx=55.45% 75,544kms (46,940miles) 83 QCs and 1967 L1/L2
and yours after 13,014 miles are :
277 GID's, SOH=76.34%, Hx=49.05%. 44721 miles on new battery, 35 QC and 962 L1/2

So same time frame, same distance covered.

I've done 64 QC and you 16 !!
I've lost 8.58% Hx and you 16.65%
I've lost 5.15% capacity and you 10.13%

I think those numbers are neat enough to speak for themselves.
Quick charging may be considered bad by some, but they ain't nothing on sunshine!
 
johnlocke said:
Nothing else I've looked at has enough advantages to beat a Y.
Besides the Y being a non-starter for me since it addresses none of my issues with w/the 3, having no need for an SUV and finding the Y ugly, it's a reliability disaster at https://web.archive.org/web/20201126141633/https://www.consumerreports.org/car-reliability-owner-satisfaction/who-makes-the-most-reliable-cars/. And, it costs more than the 3, to boot. I have online access to CR and its score remains the same. I refrain from buying cars w/worse than average reliability unless there's a really good reason, but that far down is really bad.

And, as some people discovered, if you try "ordering" one now at https://www.tesla.com/modely/design#overview, ETA for LR Y is January 2022. The wait is shorter if you choose performance, which costs $7K extra.
 
tomhanman said:
Hi John, as your last post was on my birthday I thought I'd chip in.

The Model Y is not alone in getting steadily more expensive, I think that would apply to absolutely everything at the moment. Buckle up for the inflationary nightmare to come.

Anyway when I joined in (ish) it was 18 months ago and my stats when I bought the car in Feb last year were:
??? GIDs 67.72Ah SOH=85.20% Hx=64.03% 54,405kms (33,805miles) 19 DCFC and 1625 L1/L2
When you were at:
314 GIDs 68.73 AH, SOH=86.47%, Hx=65.70%, 31707 mi on new battery. 20 DCFC and 610 l2

Now after 13,135 miles mine are:
??? GIDs 63.62Ah SOH=80.05% Hx=55.45% 75,544kms (46,940miles) 83 QCs and 1967 L1/L2
and yours after 13,014 miles are :
277 GID's, SOH=76.34%, Hx=49.05%. 44721 miles on new battery, 35 QC and 962 L1/2

So same time frame, same distance covered.

I've done 64 QC and you 16 !!
I've lost 8.58% Hx and you 16.65%
I've lost 5.15% capacity and you 10.13%

I think those numbers are neat enough to speak for themselves.
Quick charging may be considered bad by some, but they ain't nothing on sunshine!
Hot weather is a killer for this car. The battery pack never gets a chance to cool off. Judging by the reports I've seen, Northern tier states and most of Europe seems to do just fine. I suspect that if I lived on the coast instead of inland, I'd have had better luck. I get just as much sun as Death Valley where I'm at and I'm 20 degrees hotter than the coast in the summer and 30 degrees colder in the winter. Plus I drive down to the coast most mornings. Lots of temperature swings which probably aren't good for the battery either. The second battery is holding up better than the first but I'll be lucky to get 60,000 miles out of it. It won't crap out before the mileage warranty expires but it won't last much longer than that either. I don't think DCFC has much to do with it. Some guys drive Leafs as Ubers and fast charge them all the time. Doesn't seem to make a lot of difference.
 
cwerdna said:
johnlocke said:
Nothing else I've looked at has enough advantages to beat a Y.
Besides the Y being a non-starter for me since it addresses none of my issues with w/the 3, having no need for an SUV and finding the Y ugly, it's a reliability disaster at https://web.archive.org/web/20201126141633/https://www.consumerreports.org/car-reliability-owner-satisfaction/who-makes-the-most-reliable-cars/. And, it costs more than the 3, to boot. I have online access to CR and its score remains the same. I refrain from buying cars w/worse than average reliability unless there's a really good reason, but that far down is really bad.

And, as some people discovered, if you try "ordering" one now at https://www.tesla.com/modely/design#overview, ETA for LR Y is January 2022. The wait is shorter if you choose performance, which costs $7K extra.
I wasn't suggesting that the Y was the best solution for everyone, only that best fit my needs. I understand that Tesla has fit and finish issues. I also understand that it has a very high owner satisfaction rating. As to reliability ratings, I'll take an EV over ICE any day. Not all problems are equal. A broken door handle is not equal to a broken transmission. Sloppy interior trim is not equal to an engine oil leak. Consumer Reports tends to treat all problems equally. If the majority of problems are "fit and finish" issues rather then mechanical failures, that's a different kind of problem. Whether I can drive the car or not is my idea of reliability. Will it last for 200,000 mi? How often will it need major repairs?

Yes, the current wait time between ordering and delivery is ridiculous. On the other hand, if they are selling them as fast as they can make them then they must be doing something right. Also, in case you hadn't noticed, Tesla is building two new factories to handle that demand. In six months or so those factories will be online and double Tesla's production rate. That should eliminate most of the delivery delays.
 
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