OpenEVSE - Open Source Charging Station

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I used autocorrect and I did not notice the error. I was in the plumbing section of the DIY forum but my reply ended up here. Oh well, no harm done. I truly love my tankless water heater and I would not go back.

The only thing I see is that they are running the same software and my reply wanted me to log on.
 
91040 said:
Is a bigger enclosure enough or is venting required?

GlennD said:
Contactors typically draw about 15W so they need airflow. A small box will likely cause excessive temperatures. Many times the contractor is placed in airflow and never gets hot. The outside half of an air conditioner is like that.

I think you have to calculate the heat, it might require a big enclosure with venting or even air condition enclosure. Which rating standard are you using? NEMA rating or IP standard? I found this site might be valuable if you looking for NEMA electrical enclosures. They provide many types and design including addon features like hinges, couplings, wheels, air condition, and many more. My company did order from them recently and everything worked out fine. https://www.nemaco.com, to study for type and protection recommend study from https://www.nema.org/pages/default.aspx and https://www.nema.org/Products/Documents/nema-enclosure-types.pdf
 
Hi all - hope it was OK to post this as a reply on the OpenEVSE sticky.
I have three questions; any insight / advice is greatly appreciated!

1) I have an OpenEVSE box from 2014 and rarely have had to open it. I had to replace the fuses recently, and when I opened it up, some white fluffy material was inside; see the following three pics in my Drive folder:
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1cipHtPaWbwy3fVTzGq80v7xRih_-57G_?usp=sharing
Anyone know what this white fluffy stuff is? I vacuumed it away easily. Should I be concerned?

2) Same OpenEVSE box: the fuse holders have shown some heat damage. I actually replaced these fuse holders before. See the following two pics:
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1WV2q-F4tXW8p_51G1VCDASGFy4XOQryt?usp=sharing
Anyone else see melted fuse holders? Is there a workaround / more updated parts I should use from the original 2014 BOM?
I've actually had to ratchet the OpenEVSE down to 20A; prior to that, higher amperage settings kept blowing the fuses.

3) I recently got a 2020 Leaf Plus; it comes with an EVSE indicating 30A with a NEMA 14-50 plug.
The 2014 OpenEVSE uses a NEMA 6-30R locking receptacle. I ran #8 AWG from my 30A circuit breaker to the receptacle when I had this circuit installed.
I was thinking of getting a 6-30-to-14-50 adapter, and plugging the stock EVSE into my circuit; I figure the wiring can handle it, and worst case the 30A circuit breaker would go off, if the (approx assumed) 27.5A continuous charge load was too much.
Anyone else have experience trying the stock EVSE on a 30A circuit breaker, or if this is not a good idea?

Hey thanks for anyone's input on any of the above, and Happy New Year
- Paulito
 
paulito99 said:
Hi all - hope it was OK to post this as a reply on the OpenEVSE sticky.
I have three questions; any insight / advice is greatly appreciated!

1) I have an OpenEVSE box from 2014 and rarely have had to open it. I had to replace the fuses recently, and when I opened it up, some white fluffy material was inside; see the following three pics in my Drive folder:
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1cipHtPaWbwy3fVTzGq80v7xRih_-57G_?usp=sharing
Anyone know what this white fluffy stuff is? I vacuumed it away easily. Should I be concerned?

2) Same OpenEVSE box: the fuse holders have shown some heat damage. I actually replaced these fuse holders before. See the following two pics:
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1WV2q-F4tXW8p_51G1VCDASGFy4XOQryt?usp=sharing
Anyone else see melted fuse holders? Is there a workaround / more updated parts I should use from the original 2014 BOM?
I've actually had to ratchet the OpenEVSE down to 20A; prior to that, higher amperage settings kept blowing the fuses.

3) I recently got a 2020 Leaf Plus; it comes with an EVSE indicating 30A with a NEMA 14-50 plug.
The 2014 OpenEVSE uses a NEMA 6-30R locking receptacle. I ran #8 AWG from my 30A circuit breaker to the receptacle when I had this circuit installed.
I was thinking of getting a 6-30-to-14-50 adapter, and plugging the stock EVSE into my circuit; I figure the wiring can handle it, and worst case the 30A circuit breaker would go off, if the (approx assumed) 27.5A continuous charge load was too much.
Anyone else have experience trying the stock EVSE on a 30A circuit breaker, or if this is not a good idea?

Hey thanks for anyone's input on any of the above, and Happy New Year
- Paulito
1. Insects or fungus maybe?
2. Assuming the fuse contacts will handle 30 amps , clean the fuses and contacts well and make sure you don't have contact resistance at the fuses; with the heavy gage wire any heating resistance will more likely be at the fuses.
3. I used my Open EVSE on my 2011 until recently when I purchased a used 2019 Leaf...the onboard charger now draws 28 amps which works fine. My circuit is a 40 amp breaker, 10 gage wire to a 30 amp fuse switch box with an L6-30 socket to the Open EVSE. I would like more head room; but, I feel the circuit is protected OK with the 30 amp fuses.
I also have the Nissan EVSE with the 14-50 plug; but, since my Open EVSE work OK, I just keep it in the car and intend to use it with the 120 volt adapter if I need to trickle charge. I'll wire it in if my Open EVSE goes away.
 
1. No idea but I'd at least clean it up before using the unit again.
2. That looks pretty scary to me. Melted parts are dangerous and show either a circuit design fault or circuit component fault or misuse.
3. 8 AWG Cu wire of just about any type is rated for 40A or more. I'd replace the circuit breaker and upgrade the circuit to 40A.https://www.cerrowire.com/products/resources/tables-calculators/ampacity-charts/
 
I would upgrade it too you really don't want a sustained load over 80% of what it is rated for. I actually had a 50amp circuit put in mine and my for some future car. Some people I know went higher as the labor is the main cost. I actually rolled it in and had the master electrictian do it as part of my solar install.
 
Is anyone interested in OpenEVSE parts? I have a Barbouri through hole version, and a v4 SMD board, along with an RGB display and some other odds and ends. No complete EVSE, no J1772 cables. Free, just paypal me actual shipping costs. PM me if interested.
 
I recently purchased a 2015 Leaf SL and have been shopping for a 240v EVSE for about a month. When I learned about OpenEVSE, the combination of price/features/privacy seemed too good to be true. Sorry to revive a dead thread (last post over a year ago), but I was curious if anyone had updates to share.

How’s the longevity?
Still happy with your purchase?
With so many new options on the market, compared to when the OpenEVSE project began, would you still buy one today?
 
I purchased the basic kit back in 2015. I've had two issues with heat - one with a main power spade connector and the other with a overheated and blown 30 amp fuse. Originally it was limited to ~ 16 amps for my Gen 1 leaf. The problems started with my 6.6 kW Gen 2 leaf. I does seem to run somewhat hot and have to limit it to 24 amps. I'd guess the newer units have solved this to service the higher power L2 chargers now common.

An important functionality to me is the ability to send RAPI commands to the unit so this it can be controlled by an arduino or similar processor. Overall been very happy with quality and service.
 
Marktm said:
An important functionality to me is the ability to send RAPI commands to the unit so this it can be controlled by an arduino or similar processor. Overall been very happy with quality and service.

Interesting. I've never done any Arduino programming, but this might motivate me. Are there functions that you perform with RAPI commands which can't be performed from the web interface built in to the charging station?
 
Marktm said:
I purchased the basic kit back in 2015. I've had two issues with heat - one with a main power spade connector and the other with a overheated and blown 30 amp fuse. Originally it was limited to ~ 16 amps for my Gen 1 leaf. The problems started with my 6.6 kW Gen 2 leaf. I does seem to run somewhat hot and have to limit it to 24 amps. I'd guess the newer units have solved this to service the higher power L2 chargers now common.

An important functionality to me is the ability to send RAPI commands to the unit so this it can be controlled by an arduino or similar processor. Overall been very happy with quality and service.
I also had a problem with the 30a fuse blowing but note my Leaf can draw up to 27.5a so it is kind of maxed out. I didn't realize one could limit the maximum charging on the OpenEVSE, I don't think mine has that feature. It's basically a box with a clear cover, red push button and strain reliefs going to it's 14-50 power cord and J1772 cord to the car. Other than the fuse I haven't had any issues with it but to answer the OPs question, no I'd probably just purchase any number of the premade Chinese EVSEs off Amazon for probably the same if not cheaper than the parts for an OpenEVSE. Back when premade EVSEs were $500+ one could save some money making their own EVSE and get some satisfaction doing it now days but unless I can save some serious change I've got better things to do with my time :)
 
On my older model that has a white plastic case, the chrome pushbutton will initiate a menu system that includes a number of parameters for charging, including max current. Definitely not familiar with the new models. The RAPI coding system requires wiring up to the microprocessor unit according to Chris's instructions.
 
Marktm said:
On my older model that has a white plastic case, the chrome pushbutton will initiate a menu system that includes a number of parameters for charging, including max current. Definitely not familiar with the new models. The RAPI coding system requires wiring up to the microprocessor unit according to Chris's instructions.
Mine is also quite old, I didn't make it but got it from my mother's place when she passed. She used it on her '13 Leaf SL and came from the original owner, apparently a Pilot who purchased the Leaf new and built the EVSE. I believe it says OpenEVSE when powered on? can't remember now and I have it shelved. It has a white, now yellowed case and clear plastic cover you flip two things on the side and you gain access to the small push button that AFAIR didn't do much, the only silver parts are the shaft of the push button and knurled nut holding it through the plastic front under the clear front cover.
The wires come out the side of the box and as mentioned before have some nice strain reliefs on both cords. Truthfully the whole case looks like it was built out of parts picked up from a second-hand shop, no one would mistake it for a purchased premade EVSE and don't think there are any markings/tags on the outside. Not sure if this is how all the OpenEVSE looked or if the maker just purchased the parts(cables, circuit boards, etc) and put in in a housing of his choice.
With the wires coming out the same side it's not very handy for portable use IMO but she had it sitting on a shelf and never transported it around. I'm pretty sure there is no way to limit the charging current or I may have used it bit more than testing, I've got several fixed amperage non-portable EVSEs and didn't really need another but I wasn't going to let it get tossed or given away with her house.
 
daveizdum said:
How’s the longevity?
Still happy with your purchase?
With so many new options on the market, compared to when the OpenEVSE project began, would you still buy one today?
In seven years of EV ownership, I've been through three main* EVSEs: OpenEVSE, JuiceBox, and (currently) Duosida. Given that the first two died on me after 2-3 years each, I can't say that I'm happy with either of them. But, there's a lot of variation in OpenEVSE (at least if you buy from a third party builder, as I did). I still love the idea of it, and I'd probably still want to pursue that if I were starting from scratch today.

I have some stuff to say about the OpenEVSE software, but then again, I can't really say others are better.

* I also have a busted Blink (known busted when I bought it), and of course, the Level 1 EVSE that came with the car.
 
i bought / built the fancier kit (included wifi; color display) in 2017
and been using it ever since.
no troubles.
I do like the wifi/web interface, very easy to set start/stop times, max charging rates, etc.

Now i'm wondering about a blown 30A fuse that a few people mentioned; i didn't know it had a fuse(?).
 
I've got an openEVSE I bought from a member here (GlennD) who hasn't posted here in years.

I used it for about 7.5 years charging a pair of 2012 leafs (at 3.x KW on 240V)

I've finally worn out the switch in the J1772 handle and now have bought a Tesla EVSE to replace it (was cheaper than any other big name EVSE and I plopped an adapter on it to charge my leafs).

So I have this "32A OpenEVSE with RGB Real Time Clock" (that's how Glenn listed it) that's been used for a while (never at it's full rating) if someone wants to Replace or repair the handle.

Or if anyone wants to toss an opinion on what kind of price I should list it on the for sale forums for an EVSE that needs repair.
 
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