Water under cargo area floor

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Bob, it's likely not the hatch itself as it has drain holes that would take any water and drain just over the rear bumper. I'd look closely at the tail lights (remove them) as there are several places there where water could enter. Also, the manufacturers placed rubber washers (and not good ones) to seal the 10mm bolts that hold the taillights in. Water drains down beside the hatch on both sides (quite a lot during rain) and would 100% enter the car if those seals are not good via the bolts. You can just pull the bolts and use gasket sealer on them to make sure. You'll also find crud underneath the taillights that draining water has dropped there, between the tail lights and rear hatch gutter.

img_66a3-0b37.jpg


Note the 10mm bolt holes on the right (the upper one is not in the photo), and taillight wiring grommet. Water draining from the roof via the hatch opening, will enter the hatch area here if those openings are not sealed correctly.

If this is the issue, you'll find it quickly by opening the hatch and using a hose to run water down the right and left hatch gutter, over the taillight plastic, starting from above it. If you have a leak, you'll see it on the floor quickly. Open up the flat repair kit door, remove it and also remove the foam insert that it sits in. Check that area for water.

Julie, do not caulk any seams on the under chassis shields. It will do nothing to stop water ingress to the hatch area and may in fact prevent it from the shields. There is a void above that area large enough to hold a spare tire, all of it outside the sealed cabin area.

Bob, if you inspect your hatch, you'll see that the panel has two drain holes right and left. These are put there by the manufacturer on pretty much every car to make sure any water that finds it's way in, drains via these holes, outside the vehicle.
 
I have a 2011, which should have a very similar (but different) body configuration to yours. There's some differences due to the ability to wirelessly charge, which was never implemented (and I think is used to carry a spare tire in other geos).

That said, I had the exact same problem. I took it to the shop and they tore it all apart, and they found the problem. Apparently, my car had previously been in an (unreported) accident and the whole back bumper was replaced. Behind the bumper was some bent metal, and that bending created a very small (think pencil eraser sized or smaller) hole between the weld joints between two different plates. That tiny hole was enough to soak the floorboards of both the back and front seat, put water in the trunk area, and cause the entire car to smell mildewy. The mechanics sealed the hole and I haven't had any problems since.

So you may be looking for a very small hole or crack.
 
Hi everyone, after struggling with the same issue I decided to rip out the back seat and go for a drive. Although it was always the right hand side rear footwell getting wet the problem was actually a rubber grommet just behind where the left hand rear passanger would sit. It was seepinv up through the grommet while driving in wet weather.

As far as i know this is used as a mounting hole for spray painting and is a problem in many other cars too.

Peter
 
denwood said:
Bob, it's likely not the hatch itself as it has drain holes that would take any water and drain just over the rear bumper. I'd look closely at the tail lights (remove them) as there are several places there where water could enter. Also, the manufacturers placed rubber washers (and not good ones) to seal the 10mm bolts that hold the taillights in. Water drains down beside the hatch on both sides (quite a lot during rain) and would 100% enter the car if those seals are not good via the bolts. You can just pull the bolts and use gasket sealer on them to make sure. You'll also find crud underneath the taillights that draining water has dropped there, between the tail lights and rear hatch gutter.

img_66a3-0b37.jpg


Note the 10mm bolt holes on the right (the upper one is not in the photo), and taillight wiring grommet. Water draining from the roof via the hatch opening, will enter the hatch area here if those openings are not sealed correctly.

If this is the issue, you'll find it quickly by opening the hatch and using a hose to run water down the right and left hatch gutter, over the taillight plastic, starting from above it. If you have a leak, you'll see it on the floor quickly. Open up the flat repair kit door, remove it and also remove the foam insert that it sits in. Check that area for water.

Julie, do not caulk any seams on the under chassis shields. It will do nothing to stop water ingress to the hatch area and may in fact prevent it from the shields. There is a void above that area large enough to hold a spare tire, all of it outside the sealed cabin area.

Bob, if you inspect your hatch, you'll see that the panel has two drain holes right and left. These are put there by the manufacturer on pretty much every car to make sure any water that finds it's way in, drains via these holes, outside the vehicle.
Denwood, Thank you for the photograph of the body with the rear light cluster removed, As I said in my earlier post, my 2014 Tekna has water ingress when being hosed off after washing. I eventually discovered how to remove the light cluster without ending up with a pile of shards of shattered acrylic moulding on the ground behind the car! What I found was a mirror image of your photograph - the wiring grommet to the tail lights was disengaged from the hole it is supposed to be occupying! No wonder, then that water was getting in, but why it didn't when the weather was wet of when driving is a puzzle. There's no doubt in my mind that it was already out and not just pulled out as I lifted the moulding away as I expected wires and took care not to pull on them. It is now back in place and resistant to being pulled out, so I am hoping that the water ingress has been stopped. No doubt I'll be back on here if it still gets in! Thanks again for you valued advice Denwood. :D
 
denwood said:
Bob, it's likely not the hatch itself as it has drain holes that would take any water and drain just over the rear bumper. I'd look closely at the tail lights (remove them) as there are several places there where water could enter. Also, the manufacturers placed rubber washers (and not good ones) to seal the 10mm bolts that hold the taillights in. Water drains down beside the hatch on both sides (quite a lot during rain) and would 100% enter the car if those seals are not good via the bolts. You can just pull the bolts and use gasket sealer on them to make sure. You'll also find crud underneath the taillights that draining water has dropped there, between the tail lights and rear hatch gutter.

img_66a3-0b37.jpg


Note the 10mm bolt holes on the right (the upper one is not in the photo), and taillight wiring grommet. Water draining from the roof via the hatch opening, will enter the hatch area here if those openings are not sealed correctly.

If this is the issue, you'll find it quickly by opening the hatch and using a hose to run water down the right and left hatch gutter, over the taillight plastic, starting from above it. If you have a leak, you'll see it on the floor quickly. Open up the flat repair kit door, remove it and also remove the foam insert that it sits in. Check that area for water.

Julie, do not caulk any seams on the under chassis shields. It will do nothing to stop water ingress to the hatch area and may in fact prevent it from the shields. There is a void above that area large enough to hold a spare tire, all of it outside the sealed cabin area.

Bob, if you inspect your hatch, you'll see that the panel has two drain holes right and left. These are put there by the manufacturer on pretty much every car to make sure any water that finds it's way in, drains via these holes, outside the vehicle.
Denwood, Thank you for the photograph of the body with the rear light cluster removed, As I said in my earlier post, my 2014 Tekna has water ingress when being hosed off after washing. I eventually discovered how to remove the light cluster without ending up with a pile of shards of shattered acrylic moulding on the ground behind the car! What I found was a mirror image (right hand drive) of your photograph - the wiring grommet to the tail lights was disengaged from the hole it is supposed to be occupying! No wonder, then that water was getting in, but why it didn't when the weather was wet of when driving is a puzzle. There's no doubt in my mind that it was already out and not just pulled out as I lifted the moulding away as I expected wires and took care not to pull on them. It is now back in place and resistant to being pulled out, so I am hoping that the water ingress has been stopped. No doubt I'll be back on here if it still gets in! Thanks again for you valued advice Denwood. :D
 
I'd just like to report that I have now washed the Leaf and I was none too gentle with the hosepipe when rinsing off. No water penetrated into the luggage compartment! :D
 
Hello! I've just bought a 2014 Leaf that is leaking into the trunk / boot. I've taken the rear lights assembly off, and the grommets around each of the three screw holes are in bad condition. I'll try to find something to improve the situation. I was just wondering though, is water meant to drain behind the light assembly? I mean, is that the normal course that water takes? It seems strange that the light assembly isn't itself sealed against the body of the car, to prevent water from even getting near those grommets.

If anyone has any other experience to share with this issue, or any other tips for me, I'd love to hear them.

Unfortunately it looks like the car has been sitting around for a long time with water in it, and it smells pretty bad. I've removed all the rear trim as well as the rear seats to try and dry it out and clean it up, but the musty / mildewy smell is going to take a lot of work to shift :cry:
 
Just my 2 cents, I have the same issue in my 2012 SL, however, I have determined that mine is from condensation in cold weather. The way I found mine was due to a Parking Brake malfunction. The emergency release cable acts as a drain and the condensate will eventually corrode the inside of the parking brake mechanism and must be replaced or overhauled. I'm currently trying to figure out how to insulate the underbody beneath the cargo area.
 
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