See the 2012 Zero Motorcycle recall.Stanton wrote: ↑Thu Sep 22, 2022 12:41 pm Stupid question: what happens if you don't seal the pack? I get that is the original design goal, but what are ramifications if you don't? Doesn't mean you can't take measures to prevent water/moisture from entering the "crack"...but that's not the same as pressure sealing.
To be honest, I was kind of wondering the same thing myself. If I built an unsealed power wall I doubt that I would seal it up the same as a battery pack. I suppose corrosion from humid air entering the pack could be a long-term problem. Two months ago I encountered an underpass that had three feet of standing water after a storm and had to turn around. Driving through something like that could be problematic without a sealed pack. The remote chance of that happening or the 'crack' causing a short is enough for me to want to seal it up. How hard can it be to fix a three inch "crack" anyways.Stanton wrote: ↑Thu Sep 22, 2022 12:41 pm Stupid question: what happens if you don't seal the pack? I get that is the original design goal, but what are ramifications if you don't? Doesn't mean you can't take measures to prevent water/moisture from entering the "crack"...but that's not the same as pressure sealing.
I don't think you can use the new cells and controller in the 2012 case even if you open both cases and try to move everything. After thinking about it some more, I agree with your latest reseal/patch approach. If it holds pressure in accordance with the service manual test method, then you should be OK.notam2 wrote: ↑Fri Sep 23, 2022 12:45 pm Given that I'm upgrading from a 24 kWh battery to a 40 kWh battery, I don't think a brute force module replacement is the way I want to go. I don't think I can use my old lower case on the new battery as there are some subtle differences, including a PTC heater connector on the new battery that the old battery doesn't have.
I've thought about cracking open the new pack to inspect and reseal it, but I'm not sure that I'll be better off. The pack looks pretty solid. I'm actually impressed that the rest of the caulking retained its bond despite the force applied to the underside of the battery. The metal is only deformed to the extent of maybe 1mm or 2mm at most. Even if I cracked the pack open I'd probably fix the issue by patching the three inch segment where the bond isn't holding instead of tearing everything apart and resealing the entire bead. I probably can't do just one bead anyways, because breaking that bead would damage an adjacent bead...so apart from being an order of magnitude more work, I thinking I should only fix what's actually broken.
I'll likely go with a urethane patch over the three inch segment. There are some urethane sealants that can patch boat hulls watertight below the water line. If it passes a pressure test after curing then I know its sealed and I should be good.