How To: Reduction Gear Oil Change

[dsevier]

seals: No problem since the seals are silicone rubber & don't react to squat.
[/quote]

New to the Leaf forum with a 2014 S but can see this group gets technical real fast, which is fine with me. I had an old SAAB and transmission oil was a heated discussion. Some said Redline MTL killed their transmissions and while others raved about it. There was discussion about it being unkind to the plastic bearing cages in Hondas and others said it attacked the seals. So good to know the Leaf uses silicone seals.

[Nubo]

Crush washers https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0726 ... UTF8&psc=1

[dsevier]

I just changed the oil in my new to me 2014 Leaf with 66k miles. I have no record of previous owners changing the oil so expected a lot of fuzz on the magnet. Well, it was pretty bad. Fluid was very dark and you can see the amount of metal. I picked up some Nissan Matic-S for the job and put it in but after seeing the wear, would certainly consider putting an oil aimed at reducing wear such as (edit) Valvoline MaxLife or similar. I am not sure if Google Photos will automatically show the picture so am attaching a separate link.

Thanks to all that have contributed to this topic and made it easy for first timers like me.


https://photos.app.goo.gl/LsazMDVYcP2sEGSF7

[GaleHawkins]

Thanks for the photo. That is what our 2016 look like at 37,000, mi as far as metal on the magnet. Some have posted that most of the metal is made in the first 5000 mi of use..

MaxLife is our to to ATF. We flushed using max life until it stopped coming out with dark streaks. Then we let it drain out completely and refilled. We did add Archoil AR-9100 just for the heck of it.

We refill through the third plug at the top side which has no magnet. The check level and the drain plug both had equal amount to metal on them. We never plan to drain again even if we decide to keep it long-term. Now with the 2023 Tesla Model Y dual motor long range it isn't seeing many miles..

Per my understanding, the Tesla Model Y gear box oil filters are no longer removable but they are built inside of the case for life. That supports the position that all the metal is made initially and it is not a matter of concern long-term if you capture the initial metal made.

[voltamps]

I just changed the oil in my new to me 2014 Leaf with 66k miles. I have no record of previous owners changing the oil so expected a lot of fuzz on the magnet. Well, it was pretty bad. Fluid was very dark and you can see the amount of metal. I picked up some Nissan Matic-S for the job and put it in but after seeing the wear, would certainly consider putting an oil aimed at reducing wear such as (edit) Valvoline MaxLife or similar. I am not sure if Google Photos will automatically show the picture so am attaching a separate link.

Thanks to all that have contributed to this topic and made it easy for first timers like me.


https://photos.app.goo.gl/LsazMDVYcP2sEGSF7

Valvoline MaxLife is a good choice. It basically matches Nissan Matic S in viscosity, and MaxLife has about twice the anti-wear phosphorus compounds in it (evidenced from spectral fluid analysis "voa" parts per million density).

You actually can't go wrong using any ATF fluid, any brand, you find that says "Dexron VI" on the label somewhere.
I use Redline MT-LV, which has the right Matic S viscosity & actually has 5 times the anti-wear stuff Matic S does, and is all Group4/5 base oil.

The amount of metal on the plug (picture of yours below) does seem about normal. Some have reported less and nobody knows how they did it ! I changed my fluid out early on a '22 Leaf, and it should be good for 200,000 miles or so after that, if the break-in metal is gone, as @GaleHawkins mentioned in the post above.

[NedSlc]

Hi,everyone..Theoretical question,and i would love to get your input..Would it be a bad idea to mix 1 bottle of Valvoline ULV fluid with 0.4 quarts of Dexron VI,to make the viscosity slightly closer to 5,and get the benefits of ULV fluid with some additional protection,or would that be a no-no?TIA

[Stanton]

Unless you are a chemical engineer, I would not try to "mix" your own batch of oil.
Either use the stuff recommend and tested in this thread (I used Valvoline ULV), or stick with what Nissan put in the car to begin with (Matic S).

[voltamps]

Hi,everyone..Theoretical question,and i would love to get your input..Would it be a bad idea to mix 1 bottle of Valvoline ULV fluid with 0.4 quarts of Dexron VI,to make the viscosity slightly closer to 5,and get the benefits of ULV fluid with some additional protection,or would that be a no-no?TIA

It likely is not a problem mixing them. There is some risk that I can't quantify of mixing, maybe small risk(???). Mainly inducing foaming (aeration) is what I'd be slightly concerned about. Racers will tell you that is why they don't dare mix stuff in the engine or gearbox or diff.

I can't agree with some others on this forum that Valvoline ULV should be used, if you care about long-term wear & durability. The viscosity is too far below what Nissan says it wants. Dexron VI or Mercon LV type fluid is very close to Matic S's visc.

[Nubo]

Redline D6 got a "very impressive" from "Project Farm" [youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mF2jlNc9Tqw[/youtube]

[voltamps]

Redline D6 got a "very impressive" from "Project Farm"

Not a bad Project Farm video there! Yes, Redline D6 is a high-performance tranny fluid (PAO, POE, high phosphorus).
Similar to Amsoil Signature Series ATF fluid (the thin one, "Fuel Efficient" in the name), made as a stronger longer lasting formula.

In the Project Farm video, he showed the Redline D6 having similar phosphorus levels as what we know Valvoline MaxLife ATF has, around 500-600 ppm, great for better anti-wear in gear teeth like ours.
I use Redline MT-LV which is a similar product as Redline D6, but with even more anti-wear phosphorus.

(All the fluids mentioned here are the right viscosity for a Leaf too, Use where DexronVI, MerconLV, or MaticS is needed.)