Included EVSE hanging when plugged-in - FIXED

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That short cord is a real pain, as most of the "found" public outlets are worn and lacking in 'grip'.
Hanging a big box off the plug is just dumb. And it's not like I can carry around a masonry drill and mount hooks/shelves/screws/bungies to support the EVSE.

I can't see any reason at all why a good 12ga 1-foot or 2-foot extension cord would add risk. Indeed, the prongs are usually exposed just by hanging the swinging mass from them -- a cord that allows the box to sit on the ground would be safer.

Seriously:
http://amzn.com/B000BQU576
31SPWJgL6cL._SL500_AA300_.jpg
 
FIXED:

A rubber bungee from home depot and a couple of cable ties did the trick. No more cord stress, also makes a great handle for the EVSE. :D

img1191dg.jpg

img1196i.jpg
 
jcesare said:
smkettner said:
jcesare said:
I bought one of these in Blue Ocean
http://www.lowes.com/pd_242113-66906-UTK500830_0__?productId=3190815&Ntt=utilitech++50%27+&pl=1&currentURL=%2Fpl__0__s%3FNtt%3Dutilitech%2B%2B50%2527%2B
I was thinking more like this one:
http://www.google.com/products/cata...X&ei=lrXKTbH9HYKTtwfDz7XmBw&ved=0CJwBEPMCMAg#
_WqPLo1cIuimHSGVSun8GOhZ3GA-hg_VKuaP97peZuz8AM89rvsR76gZIK14UQvCoRlvFduH3z_z5zTnOsrnogkN6pRSk5CeqkGt9wzkKKbZuO1byRS2Fdipi0Rk2OE3sj9B5klcP-p1LZe7Z5qjkBQ-GDBsbU-muRbdV8Mm

I went with a 50 ft. cord and I keep it in the hatch, just in case. You never know when you might need the extra length.

I bought one like this at Home Depot. 90 degree plug is perfect. Cord drops straight down and the Nissan supplied EVSE brick sits nicely under the workbench. Yes the appliance cord is 6' and #14 wire. Barely warm after four hours charging. Excellent IMO. And much safer IMO than the stubby pigtail plug. Whoever came up with that idea to keep the power cord so short made a terrible mistake. Should have been a 5' to 6' cord to allow for garage plugs at 4' above the floor.
 
So, smkettner, what happens when your chisel slips and, wouldn't you know it, jabs into that wire hanging down? There are no safety protections between the wall plug and the EVSE. That's why the standards folks insist it should be short. trentr has a safer solution.
 
Same hazard as ANY cord. Why is an EV cord suddenly a big issue?
It has the same protection as every other cord in the house, garage, shop, factory etc. It is called a circuit breaker.
And it is plugged into a GFI outlet. How much more protection does the brick really give?

Chisel slip is just FUD.

I believe the only potential issue is if flammable gasses would accumulate and the relay caused ignition. Possibly it should be 18" above the garage floor same as the water heater. I will accept the risk on this issue.
 
garygid said:
Looks like the cover on the box is installed upside down, with the two cutouts (for exiting cords) on the top instead of the bottom.
I would be curious if the door even closed with that honking replacement style plug that comes on the end of these things.
 
Ingineer said:
And by the way, if you are using our upgraded EVSE and you want to be absolutely safe: Where the EVSE calls for an in-wall receptacle, a 50 amp, 240 volt, 3- or 4-wire wall plug configuration is required, along with a minimum 40 amp 2-pole breaker.
Why do you say a 40 amp circuit is required for your upgraded EVSE that draws at most 12 amps?

Thanks,
Wayne
 
wwhitney said:
Ingineer said:
And by the way, if you are using our upgraded EVSE and you want to be absolutely safe: Where the EVSE calls for an in-wall receptacle, a 50 amp, 240 volt, 3- or 4-wire wall plug configuration is required, along with a minimum 40 amp 2-pole breaker.
Why do you say a 40 amp circuit is required for your upgraded EVSE that draws at most 12 amps?

Thanks,
Wayne
Obviously it isn't required to use our upgrade, only a 20A L6-20 is needed. We were discussing the requirements for other EVSE's. Though I clearly mis-wrote that, and accidentally left out the "not". I'll go back and correct it.

If you are going to install any other Level-2 EVSE currently on the market, you need the 40a requirement, and the upgraded unit will work fine in that outlet.

-Phil
 
DarkStar said:
Since J1772 compliance is based on those testing requirements, you can't really change the design without needing to retest again. Also, since 305 mm equals 12 inches it really is a draw either way... :D
The point is, the SAE J1772 standard doesn't require the 305mm cord length, only that it be a maximum of 305mm from the receptacle when conducting the radiated immunity test. There is no other language regarding cord length in the SAE standard, only NEC article 625 which states:
Code:
Article 25-17: Cable.  The electric vehicle supply equipment cable shall be Type EV, EVJ, EVE, EVJE. EVT, or EVJT flexible cable as specified in Article 400 and Table 400-4.  Ampacities shall be as specified in Table 400-5(A) for No. 10 and smaller and Table 400-5(8) for No. 8 and larger.  The overall length of the cable shall not exceed 25 ft (7.63m).  Other cable types and assemblies listed as being suitable the purpose, including optional hybrid communications, signal, and optical fiber cables, shall be permitted.
and:
Code:
Article 625-22: Personnel Protection System.  The electric vehicle supply equipment shall have a listed system of protection against electric shock of personnel.  The personnel protection system shall be composed of listed personnel protection devices and constructional features.  Where cord- and plug-connected electric vehicle supply equipment is used, the interrupting device of a listed personnel protection system shall be provided and shall be an integral part of the attachment plug or shall be located in the power supply cable not more than 12 in. from the attachment plug.

People are spewing standards, rules, recommendations, etc. I'm just trying to make sure the facts are straight and clear. Also: Where enforcement isn't in play, intent still matters.

-Phil
 
smkettner said:
Same hazard as ANY cord. Why is an EV cord suddenly a big issue?
It has the same protection as every other cord in the house, garage, shop, factory etc. It is called a circuit breaker.
And it is plugged into a GFI outlet. How much more protection does the brick really give?
The main point of putting the EVSE at the wall end of the cord is that the cord will be de-energized when it is disconnected from the vehicle and the vehicle is able to move. This way there is no power on the cord if the vehicle drives over and damages the cord. I guess the "line in the sand" they drew with a 1 foot cord between the wall and EVSE is an attempt to make sure the EVSE and its AC pigtail stay safely out of a position where they could be driven over when plugged in.
 
tps said:
The main point of putting the EVSE at the wall end of the cord is that the cord will be de-energized when it is disconnected from the vehicle and the vehicle is able to move. This way there is no power on the cord if the vehicle drives over and damages the cord. I guess the "line in the sand" they drew with a 1 foot cord between the wall and EVSE is an attempt to make sure the EVSE and its AC pigtail stay safely out of a position where they could be driven over when plugged in.
Actually, it has nothing to with drive-over, but you are close; They wanted to insure there was no live parts that could end up in a puddle on the ground, so they made the cord short enough that even the lowest typical outlets still mean there is nothing touching the ground that isn't protected by the EVSE's internal GFCI. Using an extension cord, means it, or worse, the connection, will be on the ground and could be immersed in water, which someone could also be standing in. Unless that extension cord is plugged into a GFCI protected circuit itself, someone could die, and then the lawyers come.

-Phil
 
smkettner said:
OK is that not the same as any other extension cord?
Yes, looked at one way it is, but I can't think of any other appliance likely to be left unattended outdoors pulling 12a for hours on end. The closest thing is an electric space heater, but they are always indoors, and I, personally, wouldn't leave one unattended and would avoid using an extension cord. Oh, I also forgot to mention the EVSE will be left in public spaces, too.
smkettner said:
It is just my opinion that the dangling brick creates more issues than is resolves.
Having the brick be so heavy is a problem, but the answer is to support it or hang it, not lengthen the cord.
 
Supporting and hanging the brick is fine when you're at home, where you can build a shelf, drive a nail, whatever.

But I'm finding quite a few public outlets that are weak in grip, and the Nissan EVSE is simply unusable because of the stupid short cord. It will pull itself right out of the outlet. Yesterday I had it barely staying in the outlet, with both prongs exposed and hot, and the spring-loaded metal weather lid sitting on top. That's fantastic.

Anyway, lots of griping over nothing. A two-foot extension cord solves all these poor decisions. You don't have to use one.

A simple right-angle plug on the EVSE would have gone a long way.
 
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