Clunk / bang when reversing in AM (gen 1)

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Goodbar

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 20, 2017
Messages
75
Location
Washington, D.C. Metro
UPDATE Aug 2021: I've corrected the problem by installing spacers that were part of an earlier TSB that doesn't apply to MY2017. This was DIY and after my warranty expired because my local dealer was so useless that I preferred to diagnose and fix it myself. More details in this post, including before and after photos that show how the strut bearings distort:
https://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=31105&sid=3492a086bc1798a614d4d5ad63c89c30&start=30#p609113

— Original Post —

I'm at wits' end trying to get a suspension clunk/bang fixed under warranty on our 2017 Leaf (30 kWh). It typically happens when reversing out of the driveway in the morning, and then not afterward unless the car sits for a few hours. The car is at the dealer we purchased from for the 10th visit since purchase in July 2017 and 5th visit that included a suspension noise. There's only 22k on the clock. This is actually the 3rd front-end noise: They've successfully corrected the axle clicking via a TSB and another clicking noise by fiddling with the brake pads.

It's getting worse over time, and tends to be exacerbated by cold weather. We don't use the e-brake unless parked on a steep hill. I found some other reports that appear to be similar, especially by

@jjeff https://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=21377&hilit=clunk&start=10#p452879

and

@jonedney https://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=21377&hilit=clunk&start=10#p510595

Anyway, here's my video. It's probably to hard to judge from the audio from my phone, but this is a loud noise. It can be heard inside and outside of the vehicle and felt through the brake pedal and/or steering wheel (can't remember!).
https://photos.app.goo.gl/FzHWtzthzqtACuaE7

As a former shadetree mechanic who has kept various old high-mileage cars going, this sounds like a strut mount or ball joint. I have not tried to diagnose this hands-on because I paid for a warranty with my new car... It seems like whatever's binding is "twanging" the right front spring. The dealer has been able to replicate it, and has seen the above video, but can't track it down and are potentially going to call it "characteristic". I will not accept that, but would be grateful to hear of others who have successfully had this diagnosed and repaired.

Thanks
 
I think that it's likely to be the disk brakes breaking a light coating of rust that is acting like weak glue. I notice it after I park mine in the garage after washing it, and then back it out days later.
 
LeftieBiker said:
I think that it's likely to be the disk brakes breaking a light coating of rust that is acting like weak glue. I notice it after I park mine in the garage after washing it, and then back it out days later.

Take a look at the 1min video. Definitely not that.
 
Goodbar said:
LeftieBiker said:
I think that it's likely to be the disk brakes breaking a light coating of rust that is acting like weak glue. I notice it after I park mine in the garage after washing it, and then back it out days later.

Take a look at the 1min video. Definitely not that.

For some reason it took multiple plays before the audio worked. Agreed, not stuck brakes. Maybe check the tightness of the strut bolts?
 
22k miles, 3 DC winters. Too early for a defective/rusted coil spring? Are the springs seated properly? (I don't know exactly what they look like on the Leaf). After 5 dealership visits, I guess you can assume all of the appropriate nuts/bolts are torques to spec???

Are you applying throttle when the sound occurs? Does it always occur when on level ground, w/o any f/r change in weight transfer?

Just throwing out questions...I agree that it sounds like a spring thunk/clunk/strut tower bushing/ball joint. Does this car have traditional stabilizer bar links? Could one of them be worn?...although there would be other symptoms, not just a singular "clunk".
 
gncndad said:
22k miles, 3 DC winters. Too early for a defective/rusted coil spring? Are the springs seated properly? (I don't know exactly what they look like on the Leaf). After 5 dealership visits, I guess you can assume all of the appropriate nuts/bolts are torques to spec???

Are you applying throttle when the sound occurs? Does it always occur when on level ground, w/o any f/r change in weight transfer?

Just throwing out questions...I agree that it sounds like a spring thunk/clunk.

It's been happening since the car was almost new, so probably not a rusty spring.

I'm applying very light throttle when it happens, but it usually does not happen at tip-in. Usually it happens within a few feet of starting. The video captured an unusually late bang in reverse.

It does seem more likely to happen on level ground, or very close to it. There's only one place that I park it from time to time that's on a significant hill. It tends to happen at the top of the hill after setting off.

The dealer seems to be allergic to replacing any parts. None have been so far. They always say they've tightened everything.
 
The sound seems to resonate through the body of the car, so I think it's something attached to the body directly, rather than a bushing in a linkage. It could also be something that strikes the body, I suppose...
 
What if you try applying some reverse torque while the parking brake is still engaged. Do you still get the clunk?
 
Nubo said:
What if you try applying some reverse torque while the parking brake is still engaged. Do you still get the clunk?

Great suggestion. I had done this (alternating D and R) before the previous trip to the dealer and wasn't able to replicate it that way. When I get the car back I will try this again and will also turn the wheel.
 
...and you're NOT braking when the sound occurs, simply rolling under very light (driveway) throttle? Will it make the clunk in neutral?

If you're on a slight incline, slowly rolling backwards, zero throttle, zero brake, will the clunk occur?
 
gncndad said:
...and you're NOT braking when the sound occurs, simply rolling under very light (driveway) throttle? Will it make the clunk in neutral?

If you're on a slight incline, slowly rolling backwards, zero throttle, zero brake, will the clunk occur?

Can happen under light braking, but less likely. It's hard to replicate because it tends to happen once daily at most. Not sure that I could replicate it in neutral, but since the reduction gear and motor are always connected to the wheels (unlike a conventional automatic or manual trans), I'm not sure it really matters.
 
Picked up the car today. The service manager told me that the front subframe bolts were loose (some 3-5 turns) with a straight face. This solution was found at the suggestion of Nissan USA. Incredible. Not only was that a potentially serious safety issue, it suggests sloppy build quality and sloppy troubleshooting at the dealer. They've told me several times previously that they've tightened all the bolts, or something to that effect. Loose subframe bolts didn't cross my mind because I assumed that they had actually tightened everything!

Will report back after a few days of driving, but I'm hopeful this is finally fixed. Seems like a plausible cause.

e147i4og.png
 
Well, the noise still happens, but has been quieter. Sigh. The car does seem to track better in corners and the steering feels tighter, so tightening the subframe did help.
 
The 'once daily' part makes me think that something isn't quite settled in place and has to find its 'happy place' once you start driving every day. But that would mean it creeps back to a different location while the car sits over-night (worse at cold?). Very odd and probably very annoying although I doubt it's a safety issue.

If it were my car, I'd loosen and re-tighten any and all suspension and drive train bolts I could find. Or have the dealer do it.
 
goldbrick said:
The 'once daily' part makes me think that something isn't quite settled in place and has to find its 'happy place' once you start driving every day. But that would mean it creeps back to a different location while the car sits over-night (worse at cold?). Very odd and probably very annoying although I doubt it's a safety issue.

If it were my car, I'd loosen and re-tighten any and all suspension and drive train bolts I could find. Or have the dealer do it.

I would have been more inclined to take that view prior to loose subframe bolts having been found. That could have been a safety issue. It's time for annual maintenance (since we only drive it about 7500 miles/year), so I'll scope things out when I have it on stands. Then I might have to figure out how to escalate via Nissan USA.
 
I agree, the "once daily" clunk/shift just doesn't make sense if ALL the subframe bolts were loose. "3-5" turns makes even LESS sense. 3-5 rotations on a bolt is HUGE, and would have permitted major shifting of the subframe.

Hyper OCD here. How much damage could have been done to the bolts/unibody holes with "x" number of miles flexing/stress?

Based on the above informtaion, if I were you, I'd be dealing face-to-face with the dealership service manager, with the dealership owner in attendance. Loose subframe bolts sound serious to me. Following that, I'd find a legit FE shop and discuss all of the above with the owner.
 
gncndad said:
I agree, the "once daily" clunk/shift just doesn't make sense if ALL the subframe bolts were loose. "3-5" turns makes even LESS sense. 3-5 rotations on a bolt is HUGE, and would have permitted major shifting of the subframe.

Hyper OCD here. How much damage could have been done to the bolts/unibody holes with "x" number of miles flexing/stress?

Based on the above informtaion, if I were you, I'd be dealing face-to-face with the dealership service manager, with the dealership owner in attendance. Loose subframe bolts sound serious to me. Following that, I'd find a legit FE shop and discuss all of the above with the owner.

I'm skeptical the bolts were that loose, though good question about potential damage. With that amount of looseness I'd expect ornery handling and regular clunks. I'm guessing that it was 3-5 ratchet turns, so maybe half to one revolution? I tried to talk to the tech, but I was intercepted by the service manager.

I've been frustrated with multiple aspects of the service dept at this dealer, which is the closest to us and where we bought the car. (The actual purchase process was great.) They also appear to get the best online ratings for this area from multiple sources (which, of course, could just be good marketing and customer service rather than competent wrenching). I was plain in my frustration and disappointment with the service manager on the phone and then in person. He's friendly, but one of those veteran teflon dealership guys that doesn't really seem to care about making it right. He basically shrugged off and deflected my concerns.

So, I'm loathe to restart this process with another dealer, but maybe that's what I need to do. Otherwise I need to figure out how to get Nissan USA involved, assuming they would ultimately be helpful.
 
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