Leaf Drive through ice covered roads...

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knightmb

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 12, 2015
Messages
2,212
Location
Franklin, TN
Unusual for Tennessee anyway, descent snow fall, temperatures in the teens during the day, only 1 or 2 snow plows around for the entire county. Basically, just roads of solid ice about 1 to 2 inches think in most places.
I've driven around during conditions like this in my Gen 1 Leaf and was surprised how well it would drive. This is the first time driving around in my Gen 2 Leaf and it was actually even better. I have the same tires on both the Gen1 and Gen 2, Bridgestone Ecopia brand tires. Famous here for good efficiency during the warmer months, but not that great in snow or ice.

The video is just my dash cam. It sits forward on the windshield, so it makes it appear to be closer to objects than I really drive, along with the speed looks faster, but I assure you, I'm not moving that fast over the ice. Speeds average from 20 mph to 30 mph in the video. What I do during snow and ice driving is lower all my tires to 36 PSI from the usual +40 PSI to help a little with traction.

This is one of the few video segments I don't have people crashing in trucks, so a little more pleasant. :?
I don't know why people in trucks need to race the Leaf, I just drive at the speed that feels stable.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MAka8QHoWg0
 
It's an old standard definition dash cam. So it only records at 640x480. The window was having trouble staying completely clear due to the ice spray, so that further blurs things a little. Looking at the original video and the youtube version, the compression by youtube is certainly making look a lot more blurry, how odd. :(
 
LeftieBiker said:
alozzy said:
One too for new Leaf drivers is to use ECO mode as less wheel spin = better traction

Definitely - especially with the 2018 through 2020 Leaf. From 2021 on, D mode is less aggressive, and Eco is even milder.
Yes, the Eco mode is certainly good on ice. I also turn off the "traction control" so it just pulls with both wheels at a stop. Just letting off of the brake is usually enough to get the Leaf rolling forward slowly, then I feather the accelerator and off it goes. Around me though, I can hear everyone else spinning wheels and the high engine revive, anti-lock wheel clicks, before they let off enough to slow down the wheels and stop breaking traction. Once everyone is moving, it's better. On hills though, most get stuck this way before they let off of the gas enough to stop breaking traction.
The other issue I see a lot of coming to a stop on ice. In the Leaf, I have it set for maximum regen in B mode (but not ePedal mode) The slow speeds mean I can come almost a stop every time without using the brakes until the last second. I've noticed that other drivers are of course using the brakes but I can hear the click-click-click of their anti-lock brakes the entire time as they stop. I can make the same thing happen if I have it set for just plain D mode (no Eco) and try to use my brakes to stop with the anti-lock going the whole time, but it's so much easier and more pleasant to stop with regen. :lol:
 
I also turn off the "traction control" so it just pulls with both wheels at a stop.

I have a post on this Forum wondering if there is a way to turn Traction Control off and not have it come back on unless wanted? In winter we have to remember to turn it off every time we come back up the steep icy hill, or get part way up and wish we had. If anyone has an idea let me know.....
 
dmacarthur said:
I also turn off the "traction control" so it just pulls with both wheels at a stop.

I have a post on this Forum wondering if there is a way to turn Traction Control off and not have it come back on unless wanted? In winter we have to remember to turn it off every time we come back up the steep icy hill, or get part way up and wish we had. If anyone has an idea let me know.....

It resets every time your turn the Leaf off. It has since my 2013 Leaf and short of a hack (CAN bus maybe?), Nissan seems keen to keep it that way. At least on the Gen 1 design, it was a button right next to the steering wheel, easy to turn off before driving. On the Gen 2, you have to go through a dash menu to find it and turn it off. Extra steps, extra annoying. :(
I usually just leave the traction control off before I start driving on ice or snow and don't worry about turning it back on for segments of road that are actually clear.
 
If you often drive in wintry - i.e. cold and slick - conditions, there's _no_ substitute for proper winter tires.

You've seen me post on this topic before, so I'll refrain from repeating myself too much.

All the traction control and whizbang tech wizardy is meaningless unless you actually have some traction to work with. Dedicated snows is the way to go. Starting, stopping _and_ turning become more like driving in the rain. Not like in the dry, but lightyears better than with so-called "all-seasons." If it doesn't carry the "3 peak mountain + snowflake" symbol, it's not actually severe winter driving rated. "M+S" is a marketing designation without a verifiable performance requirement under slick conditions (i.e. it's meaningless).

We're using Continental Winter SIs in a narrower 205/50/17 profile, mounted on the stock wheels (I have separate wider, lighter wheels for the all-seasons). They're rated to max 51 psi, so you can run them at higher pressure without concern. Basically their version of the Ice-X, but more affordable in the States.

The range hit is not too great, roughly what others report here running the Michelin Energy stock all-seasons in the winter (mid 3's mi/kwh). Peace of mind is priceless, as the saying goes.

My 13.5 cents.
 
Perfectly valid point and I will never argue that the Ecopia tires I'm using are even close to good winter tires.
On the other hand, if you live in an area that is going to get iced over once or twice a year...maybe... then the next best thing is just to run *flat* tires and live with the terrible range. :)

frontrangeleaf said:
If you often drive in wintry - i.e. cold and slick - conditions, there's _no_ substitute for proper winter tires.

You've seen me post on this topic before, so I'll refrain from repeating myself too much.

All the traction control and whizbang tech wizardy is meaningless unless you actually have some traction to work with. Dedicated snows is the way to go. Starting, stopping _and_ turning become more like driving in the rain. Not like in the dry, but lightyears better than with so-called "all-seasons." If it doesn't carry the "3 peak mountain + snowflake" symbol, it's not actually severe winter driving rated. "M+S" is a marketing designation without a verifiable performance requirement under slick conditions (i.e. it's meaningless).

We're using Continental Winter SIs in a narrower 205/50/17 profile, mounted on the stock wheels (I have separate wider, lighter wheels for the all-seasons). They're rated to max 51 psi, so you can run them at higher pressure without concern. Basically their version of the Ice-X, but more affordable in the States.

The range hit is not too great, roughly what others report here running the Michelin Energy stock all-seasons in the winter (mid 3's mi/kwh). Peace of mind is priceless, as the saying goes.

My 13.5 cents.
 
knightmb said:
It's an old standard definition dash cam. So it only records at 640x480. The window was having trouble staying completely clear due to the ice spray, so that further blurs things a little. Looking at the original video and the youtube version, the compression by youtube is certainly making look a lot more blurry, how odd. :(
Time for an upgrade. I've had good luck with Viofo. I currently have the A119 v3 and A119S. Great cameras for under $100.
 
frontrangeleaf said:
If you often drive in wintry - i.e. cold and slick - conditions, there's _no_ substitute for proper winter tires.

You've seen me post on this topic before, so I'll refrain from repeating myself too much.

All the traction control and whizbang tech wizardy is meaningless unless you actually have some traction to work with. Dedicated snows is the way to go. Starting, stopping _and_ turning become more like driving in the rain. Not like in the dry, but lightyears better than with so-called "all-seasons." If it doesn't carry the "3 peak mountain + snowflake" symbol, it's not actually severe winter driving rated. "M+S" is a marketing designation without a verifiable performance requirement under slick conditions (i.e. it's meaningless).

We're using Continental Winter SIs in a narrower 205/50/17 profile, mounted on the stock wheels (I have separate wider, lighter wheels for the all-seasons). They're rated to max 51 psi, so you can run them at higher pressure without concern. Basically their version of the Ice-X, but more affordable in the States.

The range hit is not too great, roughly what others report here running the Michelin Energy stock all-seasons in the winter (mid 3's mi/kwh). Peace of mind is priceless, as the saying goes.

My 13.5 cents.
A few days ago encountered my first truly sloppy commute into Cleveland, OH after installing Michelin X-ice (using 205/60/16 on 16" Gen1 LEAF alloy wheels at 40psi). The traction difference is amazing, even just running errands on 35F wet roads. Those tires just grip & go without the drama, and the LEAF is crazy-stable while braking on snow covered roads. I'm also not experiencing noticeable range loss vs the stock Michelin Energy 215/50/17. Most of the range loss would attribute to cold temps (~15F-20F) and windy conditions. On a good warm/dry day the range is comparable to the stock 17" wheels & tires.
 
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